I'm looking to build a frame for my 35 Chevy truck. I plan on using 34 ford cross members and 2x3 steel tubing. Any one done anything like this? Any advice? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Lots of clamps and squares. Make sure its straight 8-9 times before welding it. I've built a lot of frames from scratch, we had a jig to clamp them in so every one was exact. Time and patience...
I would use 2X4 tube for the main rails, and depending on how the rear kick up is configured, you could probably use 2X3 for the rear section.
100x50x3 mm for main rails. You need to set down and draw this out before cutting. Key considerations include wheel base, ride height, tyre sizes, suspension type and mounting. Whats wrong with the original chassis?
Hundred by fifty - wanna see him ask for that in a steel supply house in the US yeah I know, it works out to 2X4
The original frame is a 1.5 ton and I'm building a rat rod. My concern is getting curves correct: the rear will be wider than the front. Plus I want it low to the ground so a nice kick up front and in back. The body will be channeled, run a straight 8 and a 5 speed. Working on the sheet metal now but getting ready for the frame. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is not the place to talk about building a rat rod . There are sites that deal with rat rod building and you will find the folks there much more receptive than here . PM me and I will tell you about them . LFE
My bad. Not really a rat rod. Closer to a traditional hot rod. I've been so busy with school and work that I didn't have enough time to follow along with the appropriate vernacular. I'm going for a build similar in style to jimmy shines 34. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I think its a worthwhile subject. One question I've had forever is the calculation for compression on the suspension and tires fully loaded, as the chassis is usually built on a jig off the ground. for example, you have a 25" dia tyre that's 12-1/2" from spindle centerline to the ground. when that wheel is supporting perhaps 750 to 1000 pounds how much smaller does that 12-1/2" radius get? 100 x 50 x 3 is very close to 4" x 2" x .120" wall. quick - name one other country on the planet beside the usa that still uses the inch system. -jim
2' x 3'? Too bendy/flexy. Go 2' x4" at least. The Jimmy Shine thing WAS cool there for a bit, wasn't it?
I appreciate all the advice. Thinking of using the stock rails under the cab then 2x4 .120" for and aft thanks to all the replies. Any advice on mapping out the contours in front of the cab? Plus, how do I go about planning the proper amount of kick for and aft? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Since this is back up I will say that it is going to be quite a task to get the proportions right if you use a straight 8.
Your kick or Z drop measures will come when you prop up suspension pieces in their tire height, spring-perch positions and the body floor height get tweeked into something workable. Read up on 'scrub-lines' if you are planning to go low. And stay high enough to always steer out of trouble.
Thanks so much! I know the 8 will make things difficult but the look will be worth it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sure bumps, or flat tires, broken main leaf etc. Practice making Zee joints w/3" sheetrock screws, in the studs ^^^ _____ ____/\____ .......\/____
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