**Horray for the star spangled Banger** July 2013 Banger meet

Hello

Yes I drilled the crank myself. It's pretty easy, but it takes time. The hard part is to get the drill started in the journal. I used a rotary burr and high speed on the drill press to grind sort of a starting dimple. I could maybe do another. I will do one for a buddy.

//Magnus

 

Looking good, Hitch! I'm wrestling with the same dilema....kinda. Looking at a 4x4 T5, a standard S10 T5 (open banjo required), or keep the A unit! I really could use the OD gear!

 

If you get the open driveline parts then you can use a M-45 Volvo. Remove the lockout switches and you have an 8 speed gearbox 1xOD is pretty useless you get a p1800 box with a tall 1st. 3 and 4th OD are very good. JUST DO NOT BACK UP IN OVERDRIVE

I have a light that reminds me I am in OD

 

Curious about this. Have folks broken these units before they realized they had goofed? I had a '55 T-Bird with borg overdrive, and more than once got into a tail spin where the ass ended up in front and the car was skidding against the overdrive unit. Never broke it. Never even thought about it.

That T-Bird was the prettiest car ever drawn - to this day - but it handled pretty much like a Frito-Lay bread truck.

 

Hitchhiker, What instructions say the Winfields won't work with the pistons above the deck? I ran mine originally with .025 to .027 popup with no problem. I have had 2 (the first was recalled) Winfield Al repops and neither had any instructions. I guess they just figured that the buyer was smart enough to calculate the clearance/head gasket thickness in those days. I machined material (.020) from the top of the pistons to comply with J and E recommendation in the current build. Each person's build is going to be different and it is his or her's responsibility to calculate proper clearances. I guess there are just too many "dial 1 800" builders now...

 

Sacramento Vintage Ford say they don't work with pistons above the deck, which I find odd... I haven't measured mine yet, head still on. But I would think there is enough in the head gasket to make up for it if needed. Looking at the pictures of the head there is no flycut in the combustion chamber.

I just think it's a little weird that a 6.4:1 head wouldn't work on a stock engine. I don't have a problem machining them to work if needed. But I feel that I would rather spend the money upfront on something that will work without machining vs. spending it on machining a winfield.

 

Has anyone here tried, or given any thought to trying, the electric brakes from a trailer on a car? I'm asking here, instead of on the main board because I think that the folks here are thinkers--instead of sheep following what the crowd is doing.

Certainly would eliminate the corrosion in lines and cylinders that hydraulic systems are prone to in infrequently used vehicles, and aside from possibly some machining in the actual mounting, the rest would be mearly stringing wire and adapting some form of rheostat -- one from one of the old trailer controls that spliced into the brake line maybe?

Can anyone think of any downsides? Possibly not legal in all states as a primary system aside, the only thing that I can think of is there would not be any kind of tactile feed back as to how hard the brakes were being applied coming back through the brake pedal. No need for power assist though, because I have pulled trailers that would lock the wheels loaded.

Wadda ya think?

Herb

 

Herb...
I have thought about trailer brake
But they have no feel and they are more or less a on off. You would have to make a peddle that adjusted as you push and maybe use a spring to give the peddle some feel. Sound like way to much work for something that would be real hard to make work better then model A brakes. New cars makes have been playing with that shit for years. They talked about going 24 volt to run them.


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Citroen did this from the early 50s great system had to get used too like driving a truck with air brakes
easy to install tiny pedal/button no master to mount no linkage

 

Actually the Citroen brake system is part of the suspension system ,which is Hydropneumatic (oléopneumatique) ...... hydraulic fluid pressurised over nitrogen. Only the later model ones use some electronics to control the pneumatics.

 

You are correct it is only the later models with electronic control pedal early 1s were a valve still no pedal feel for feed back

 

It is still not electric brakes as Herb was talking about..... it is hydraulic brakes with an electronic actuated valve.

 

If a rheostat was used to control the brake actuation, you could control the braking pressure.

I don't know that I would like electric brakes. Especially if they were Lucas !!!!!!

.

 

Don't understand why a 6.4;1 head supposedly won't work a "stock" engine, Is there a mechanical reason stated? I could see where you might, or probably will , stress the babbit if you run the s--t out of it with out proper timing but I just see long range worrying here.
Most guys just bolt the head on with a suitable head gasket. It seems that most A's have .020 to .035 popup and with a head gasket compressed to .055 the clearance would be .020 with the .035 popup. In a highly stressed SBC, which your A or B is not, the rod piston combo can grow .035 in length. Before I would mess with the head possibly changing the design characteristics, I would remove material from top of pistons so to retain the squish area as designed.

 

picked this up at iola
aluminum winfield and a b dizzy
i'll put it on today if the wife and kids let me out of the house

 

Is that one of those fancy German engines with insert bearings?

 

It's either that, or the Ruskie copy.

Good engine if it's German, ??? if it's Russian.

I don't know how to tell, unless some of the castings have something cast on them in Cyrillic.

Herb

 

so I blew out the bearings on my backup Banger motor. I put the original banger back in cause I thought It just needed a head gasket, but it's something else??? When I drained the oil to put new oil in, the old oil had a real "gas'y" smell. When I got it running, it would idle a little rough but no rev up. When I took off the intake it looked real gas'y in the #3 cylinder. I know my ignition system is fine. I do remember this motor acting like this when it first broke & I thought it was just a head gasket.

Is this block gone/cracked? I did notice it had 3 oversize threaded head studs cause the block was stripped.

 

try a compression test dry and wet.

 

Hmm, that's a mystery. I've not seen the studs going through your valve cover before, along with the four bolts in front top of the block, and the studs for the gaspump and water outlet is placed differently too. You can even see in the casting, where they should have been.
The front motor mounts on the oil pan looks home made too... Have you got any pictures of, what is was used for previously?

I read someshere, that Ford Köln made G38T heads for gasoline and G28T for gas, but I have never encountered a G98T head. Could be real USSR steel in your hands right there! (Don't know, if that is good or bad..)

 

Head gaskets blow often! But a pressure test will tell you for sure. Feel free to be inspired by my testplates: http://dannerrsbmotor.blogspot.dk/2013/02/bitter-sweet-news.html

Made them in sufficiently thick plate, and drew them based on the gaskets- the faucet is to open for air, and close, when block is filled with water.

 

I also noticed that the front timing cover is for a Model A.

 

Okay, I didn't know- how is it for the B?

 

Vince Falter's website "Model A Ford Garage" has some information on the German and the Russian A and B engines. It appears to be German, There is KF (Ford Koln) cast into the head. It also looks to use 14 mm spark plugs.

Bluto do you have any information?

Good luck.

 

OK Ill jump in Just started building my A

its had a long family history, started life as a touring car, was converted to a open pickup before my dad picked it up in the 60s , my Brother got it going in mid 70s, in the early 80s I drove it to high School, now its getting a complete redo, I putting a B engine in it, been gathering info on Bangers, this is what I found, please jump in and correct me as needed as this is new to me

keep under 3500 RPMS for longevity
keep under 6 to 1 comp ratio for stock Babbit Bearings and oil system, the 5.5 heads are recommended

now lets talk comp Ratios as Ive heard differet opinions

heres the build Im thinkun of doing

I have a stock B engine with stock counterweight crank to start with

add a high comp head ( still not sure on which one)
run a weber carb with home cast intake I plan to make
run headers I plan to make
run a modified early Jeep distributer, normal points
12 volt everything
Plymouth alternater


now on a Stock B head how much material can you Mill off for Higher

compression ? as I have a B head and am able to mill it myself

 

what did I get myself into?

 

I'll save you a lot of trouble and take it off your hands.

 

You're in too deep, and need help. I would be glad to intervene.

(Where do you find that junk?)

 

Back of the line, guys....I was here first!

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Can you guys fill me in on these things a little more? I think they will go nicely on the truck.

here is what I know.

I bought them all today as a lot. They were the guys dad's. The head is a cast iron Super Winfield, it was painted red. Unsure of compression ratio as it looks like it was ground off. Two cams look like pretty steep ramp profiles. Don't think they will be usable. Winfield intake and two carbs a SR and a S. He had a yard full of early ford dirt track cars in various states of decay. I didn't take enough money. I am going back soon.