Register now to get rid of these ads!

Preventing rust while I build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ace5n85, Jul 15, 2013.

  1. Ace5n85
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 132

    Ace5n85
    Member

    Ok guys, Ive tried to search, but I didn't see any posts that answered all my questions. Anyways, I'm taking the Model A to get sandblasted tomorrow (inside and out) and was wondering what I can wipe on/spray on/etc. to keep the rust from starting up again until its paintin' time. Ideally, I'd like something to stop/slow surface rust but still allow me to "Metalwork" the car (if you can call what I do metalwork) and weld the necessary patches and pieces as needed. I was thinking a wipe on wash type might be good. What do you guys use and what precautions do I need to take, if any? Thanks for the wisdom.
     
  2. atomickustom
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    atomickustom
    Member

    Ospho. About $20 a gallon at your local Ace hardware store. (No one else seems to carry it.) One gallon is way more than you'll need for an entire car. You can brush it on (my preference because there is no overspray) or you can put it in a spray bottle and mist it on. It etches and protects the metal.

    I did two coats on the outside and one on the inside surfaces of my media-blasted '51 Chevy coupe body a few YEARS ago and there is no surface rust at all. As a plus, the Ospho "converts" any hidden rust and keeps it from spreading. Just do it outside and be sure to wear a respirator and eye protection if you're spraying it.

    Some brands of primer will not adhere over it - check out your primer and paint before you spray to make sure it is compatible. Other than that, you're golden.
     
  3. NO OSPHO if ya don't want any problems down the road
    Shoot a good coat of epoxy primer over everything then do the build.
     
  4. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    I vote etch primer , then once your done you can touch it up , do some mud work and 2k seal it
     

  5. Epoxy primer , If you don't have a spray setup tou can roll/brush it on .
     
  6. If it has to sit bare ass that Ospho is the way to go.
     
  7. hooliganshotrods
    Joined: Dec 2, 2010
    Posts: 629

    hooliganshotrods
    Member

  8. Ace5n85
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 132

    Ace5n85
    Member

    Doesn't have to be bare metal I suppose etch primer out of a can work? I have paint stuff and can use a gun if it's that much better
     
  9. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,140

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    I have used rust oleum green self etch primer out of a can in many many many things.. Alot of it has sat outside and looked new when it came back it... And the shit is hard to blast back off I know that much!
     
  10. RoadkillCustoms
    Joined: Jul 10, 2008
    Posts: 270

    RoadkillCustoms
    Member
    from Mesa, AZ

  11. Ace5n85
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 132

    Ace5n85
    Member

    I like this answer best! Unfortunately, I'm a rookie... And poor.
     
  12. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,945

    the-rodster
    Member

  13. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    I second using Gibbs. My truck has been in the road 3 years and even caught in the rain a few times and very little rust.

    You're supposed to be able to paint over without problems. I haven't done anything but small rattle can stuff. So I can't say for sure if it would be problem free.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  14. BillM
    Joined: May 26, 2007
    Posts: 247

    BillM
    Member Emeritus

    Ospho. Then PPG Dp series epoxy primer and follow that with some 2K primer.
     
  15. tobyflh
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 423

    tobyflh
    Member
    from Peru il

    can you da the spots were you used ospho to clean it when you start to finish the body work?
     
  16. Choff
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 184

    Choff
    Member

    Gibb's- Use it all the time and have been building for 4 years
     
  17. If you don't want to go with a spray primer, WD40 works wonders. Just make sure that you thoroughly wash the panel with brake cleaner and allow it to dry before you primer and paint it.
     
  18. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    This answer should be controversial but WD40 will work. Some of the top restoration shops use it for long term builds where they will have bare metal laying around for months or years before they get around to painting it. Supposedly, it does not create any adhesion problems later on as you can remove it with wax and grease remover.

    I have also used Ospho in the past with no adhesion problems later on if it was sanded well prior to painting. At $ 8 a quart it is pretty economical.

    I see Scotch Buzzard King types faster than me. :D

    Don
     
  19. tobyflh
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 423

    tobyflh
    Member
    from Peru il

    I would think wd-40 would be fine. That is what a lot of people use to run metal through pullmax, powerhammers and planishing hammers.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.