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292 got scammed

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by miltos68, Jul 14, 2013.

  1. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    the 292 I bought showed up this weekend, that was advertised at "only 50,000 miles".I pulled the head and it looks more like 250,000 miles!! there are the common cracks on the rear of the head and what looks like a possible crack in one of the cylinder walls? maybe its just somthing that would clean up with a bore? seller will not return my calls. if I were a little more financially set then it would be more pride than what I am dealing with now. this was supossed to go into a daily driver that has a quickly failing 235. I know a 292 is a big swap but it was going to set the car up for the future when we are a two income family again. enough of the pitty party!! I just hate people who walk a path on the far side of ethics for self gain! but here is the question can i repair this? will it create oil intrusion to the cooling system? is it worth repairing? are the take off parts worth the $400 price of admission? does anyone know where to get a resonably priced 292 shortblock that is sound and stood behind? thanks guys.
     
  2. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    I mean the cracks on the block driver and passanger rear by coolant passage and head bolts.
     
  3. that does suck.....but did you here it run before you bought it?

    i consider ANY motor a core for rebuilding if i do not here it run,drive it and pull it myself.....regardless of what the seller says.
     
  4. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    no, it was pulled already.. buyer beware. fool me once.
     

  5. yes...it's a tough lesson, but now you know. we have all been there

    i always wonder about used engines for sale where the seller claims "it ran good when pulled out"...if it was so damn good why did he pull it?
     
  6. Maybe 50 thousand on a y-block looks like what you got .... normal use and normal maintenance and American engines from back in the day seldom hit 100k without a rebuild.
     
  7. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 4,660

    Truckedup
    Member

    I been told that 292's might get cracks near head bolt holes.......
    I got fucked on a 261 Chevy a few years ago.Crank was junk due to the damper being loose.Pistons stuck ,deep rust pits.Main cap was cracked....I should have scrapped it but I managed to save the engine after spending stupid money.
     
  8. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,602

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    That sounds like it was low milage any time I call the salvage yard thay tell me 76.000 miles. Sounds like a trip to the machine shop.
     
  9. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    is this a crack that can or should be repaired? is it stupid money to repair? short blocks from 12 bolt are like 2500$$$$$$. way out of my league. but a couple more purchases like this and I'll be knocking on it's back door.
     
  10. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    thumbs up!! someimes you just can't wait for karma to do it's thing.
     
  11. dano1930
    Joined: Feb 10, 2013
    Posts: 58

    dano1930
    Member

    Im suprised it wasent advertised as a 312 haha, If it were me id buy another 292 core or 272 and try make a good one of the two, theyre cheap and plentiful, take the best of the two engines and freshen up the block and heads, valve job, polish crank, new rings bearings, you should be good y blocks are really interchangable and reliable once theyre up and going, my .02
     
  12. Single minded engine guys I see. He is talking an INLINE Chevy:p;):D

    Tim will love me for this one, you can tell a Yblock guy, you just can't tell him much!:D:eek:
     
  13. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    so are these head bolts to cooling passsage cracks equal junk?
     
  14. ol fueler
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 935

    ol fueler
    Member

    I was thinking about the same thing, but you beat me to it.
     
  15. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,425

    57Custom300
    Member
    from Arizona

    Yea it's buyer beware for sure on Ford Yblocks, I've done my share. I think there are more 312's out there now than we're ever made if you believe the sellers bs. Last 272 I bought for a project had a nice paint job on it to cover the crack on the side of the block. I was able to save that one because the crack was on the outside. It did have "G" heads & 1.54 rockers on it so it wasn't a total loss.
     
  16. hobbyjp
    Joined: Mar 14, 2006
    Posts: 330

    hobbyjp
    Member
    from socal

    As someone that buys and sells a lot of old car parts and engines, ill say that you get what you pay for and anytime you buy something used the first thing you should ask yourself is why is it being sold for said amount or why is it no longer in use. You should have no expectation that a 400 dollar engine is going to be drop in ready, a good running engine runs about a about a grand. Those 250/292 chevys do crack a lot in the heads and block, usually due to someone over torquing the front bolts by the water pump. If I was in your boat I would look for another cheap 292 and swap parts until you have a good engine. What alls wrong with your 235? You can get new bearings and gaskets pretty cheap compared to everything that's needed to swap in the 292. post some picks of your cracks, I've run cracked blocks before it all depends on where the crack is.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  17. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    ^^this.
     
  18. it's been a long hot day...i thought he was talking about a 292 ford Y-block too , and not an inline Chevy six

    no matter....i stand by what i said
     
  19. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,963

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    daily driver? drop in a 283
     
  20. BOBCRMAN
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 846

    BOBCRMAN
    Member
    from Holly

    FIRST.. Take the block and have it cleaned/magnafluxed.

    I know that costs $$$ but then you will know for sure what can be used.. No use guessing and wasting money on bad.

    Cost to repair cracked cast iron correctly can cost big dollars. I work with this stuff every day.

    A customer brought in an engine for his 66 Mustang last week. Like you, the CL seller lady said it was from a 66 Mustang and only had 50,000 miles on a complete rebuild.

    What he got was a completely rusted up. Water standing in three cylinders for many years, 150 thou plus mile... 78 351 Windsor.. He said fix it.

    Luckily no cracks. Had to replace all the guides, valves and springs. Cut the heads .020" Deck and bore block .060" to clean up rust. Grind crank and re-size rods.

    Just under $2000.00 in my machine labor and parts..Plus he has to assemble it.. Then fit a wide engine in a Mustang.

    So much for those "rebuilt" engines.. When I was buying cores. Any completes coming in that had the head and pan on them were $35.-50.00 TOPS.. Heard it all...but bought hundreds of engines..:eek:
     
  21. 48FordFanatic
    Joined: Feb 26, 2011
    Posts: 1,335

    48FordFanatic
    Member
    from Maine

    Too bad ...I hate to see people get taken.
     
  22. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    A few years ago I bought a 55 Desoto.... I started the 291 hemi, heard it run before I pulled it, sold off the other parts of the car (it was rough) -- I'm saving the hemi for my next rod... but if I sell it I will say it ran when pulled and price it accordingly, and if you don't believe me just step aside for the next buyer.
     
  23. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,594

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I guess I am just too old but to me a 400 dollar motor should be a drop in and go,I bought many for 50 dollars that ran great for years but how the times have changed.
     
  24. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,487

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Go buy 392 stuff, man that was expensive and similar results...... :(:(:(:(
     
  25. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    i'll try and upload more photos
     

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  26. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    he contacted me and is sending me all paperwork from that motor and the two prior owners and the the rebuild paperwork when the motor had 125k on it 50k ago. he swears it ran supurb just wanted a v8.
     

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  27. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    maybe this shows the crack better.
     
  28. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    upload damn it!!
     
  29. miltos68
    Joined: Jan 29, 2013
    Posts: 94

    miltos68
    Member
    from sacramento

    maybe this time
     

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  30. raidmagic
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,440

    raidmagic
    Member

    Like has been said already in this thread. Bring it to your local machine shop and get it checked out.
    It will cost a $100 or so to have it checked out but then you will know what you have and what you can do. No sense in guessing what you have.
     

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