Before we go, I've done my research and found to many do's and donts as well as the opposite of that. It gets confusing, wich I still am. I'm going to explain my case to help get the best and most accurate answers. I had my block acid dipped by h&h, is there any after treatment I should know about.its been cleaned over with a wire wheel to the point were it looks polished. The same goes for the smooth metal parts, exept they weren't acid diped and finally sanded with 120 grit dry. Im going to be using spray bomb (no compresor). The paint it self is engine enamel by bill hirsch..it got the best reviews for a spray bomb from the list. Do I need to prep any of the parts? One quick note, im on a budget....: ]
http://www.hirschauto.com/engine.pdf If you are limited to aerosol you should still make sure you have a well vented area to spray in. An easy way to pre clean the parts would be aerosol brake cleaner. It's cheap and will clean and flush the surface of the cast and stamped pieces. Remember everything you are using is flammable so remember all safety precautions.
Ya i like the brake cleaner as well. I usually give it a very light coat of zinc chromate. You don't need much. It goes on transparant so resist loading it it up. Thin as dye. Idea is the zinc really sticks for adhesion. While the zinc is still tacky spray your paint. Idea there is the paint will adhere to the zinc when tacky.. Works well for chrome parts to be painted as well.
Thanks overspray..I know I shoukd use primer on the sheet metal..but wich one? I don't mind spending $20 at the auto paint store eather..SEM self etching primer?. My point is that I don't want the paint chipping or flaking off..I spent $50 on paint and shipping, that will tick me off if it happends.
Tedley..we posted at the same time..this zinc chromate..( i see your in canada)..is there a particular brand? Or place to buy it at(auto paint store)..is it spray can?
I've used duplicolor self etching primer rattle cans on many engines and they still look great, use it on the block and tins. Good ventilation is needed this stuff stinks!
I find it better and easyier to paint a block with a brush using a heavy epoxy paint like por15 or SEM Rush sheild. No primer needed. Both are avilable in many colors and they go on thick, level out and smooth the casting very nicely. I never tried Bill's enamel. I tried eurathane base coat and clear coat with high temp primer and the after all the prep and dry time it was not as good looking or durable as a brused on eurathane. I really like the SEM because my local dealer sells it for about 1/2 the price of POR15. The SEM is avalable in white so you cant tint it and get it almost any color your need.
I am a firm believe in XIM primer which is available in white or clear and promotes adhesion with both ferrous and non-ferrous materials. I used it on my 327 before spraying it with red enamel that I got from Bill Hirsch,,that was in 2007 and it still looks good. HRP
Yup. Spray can self etch or zinc chromate or XIM, whatever you can find. The link to the Hirsch PDF frequently asked questions pretty much covers it.
I just get the rattle can from any store. Probably home depot has it. There was a time when you could get zinc chromate in a green color and sprayed real nice to but haven't seen it in years. The yellow stuff runs easy so use light coats.
I will be on the hunt for that stuff tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who contributed...in all honesty, from all that I read no one mentioned this stuff..every one kept talking bout epoxy primer...I don't have an air compresor!lol..no way to tell them tho for i was just a guesst in an unknow site..lol The good ole H.A.M.B!...: ]
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