I don't see any fuel dripping. I thought maybe I was having a boil over issue, bad float, etc. so I was looking for that, I've managed to get it to idle down to around 850 RPM smoothly, and the vacuum gage is smooth, It's still just stalling in reverse/park though I can keep giving it gas to continue running, it just runs rough.
If the sound is not coming from the throttle blades, and is coming from outside the carb then you have a vacuum leak. Are you sure you plugged all the unused ports and that there is a plug in the back of the carb. What about the intake, did you move a vacuum line from the intake to the carb and forget to plug the intake? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I only have my vaccum advance and trans line to connect. The Brake booster port in the back is plugged. Both ports in the front are used by the advance and trans and the PCV port is connected to the PCV. I'll have to try some more starting fluid to see if I can find a leak again. I have adjusted the electric choke fully counter clock wise so I'm not on the high speed idle screw so maybe it's pulling air from that being open.
What demon carb did you take off the car, was it an AFB style or a Holley style? I think at this point I would take all the vacuum lines off the carb and plug all the ports and see if that helps. Where does the hiss come from, inside the carb or outside?
It's a holley style carb. The hissing is coming from inside, it's a sharp distinct sound that gets a little quieter once the engine warms up.
Use a propane bottle (don't light the torch) to find your vacuum leak. Just don't leave the valve open for more than a minute at a time. I've found it is easier to get the nozzle end of the propane torch around carburetors and intake manifolds than trying to spray starter fluid everywhere.
.040" is fine for an electronic ignition. I was fouling autolite plugs with regularity, switched to ngk and haven't had much issue with them.
Did your old carb have 3 vacuum fittings on it? I am sure when you find it, it will be a vacuum leak on the manifold some where or maybe a line going to to the dist, brake booster, or PCV is cracked and leaking.
It did have 3 ports, PVC, trans, advance. I'm gonna get the starter fluid out when I get home and see what happens. I'll probably swap the plugs once I get this straightened out so the ngk tip is helpful. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
So I can stall it out spraying starting fluid between the carb and intake. I put the adapter plate with a gasket on top and bottom of the plate, bolt it all together and it still stalls with starter fluid being sprayed and when put in gear. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Warped flange? Adapter plate to get vacuum? Please forgive me if I missed the purpose of the adapter earlier.
Warped flange? Adapter plate to get vacuum? Please forgive me if I missed the purpose of the adapter earlier.
The adapter is just a thin piece of steal so the base plate of the car matches the intake properly. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
What intake are you running? Curious why you would need an adapter.Most Ford aftermarket intakes are square bore for Holley/AFB pattern and would not need an adapter,a heat insulator yes.
This is what I used with no problems:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1408/overview/ I posted a picture of the intake that you have.I am running a Carter 9635 same as the Edelbrock 1406.
Do you use the steel plate to anchor your throttle cable? If not try it without, might fix the problem, might not, worth a shot.
I added the plate because it was sucking air between the base plate on the carb and intake manifold. Turns out it does it with or without that plate. On another note I straightedged the flange on the intake and it's not warped. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
so you straight edged the intake, and its fine. How about the carb? I've never seen one that was warped but I guess its possible. By adding a plate and an extra gasket to the equation you may be compounding the problem. Not sure what you're up against now, thought it was just a tuning issue or bad plugs/wires
The base plate is good, I took the plate out used two gaskets and sprayed it with starting fluid again and same thing. I should say I'm spraying the shit out of it so is it possible that's why I can get it to stall out? I've decided to start checking the ignition system, the coil resistance seems off but I would think it wouldn't run at all if the coil was actually bad. Next I'm going to try testing the electronic conversion module. We'll see. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
What type of module are you using? The starting fluid should make the engine idle pick up and run smoothly for a few seconds if its finding a vacuum leak, not stall it.
The base plate is good, I took the plate out used two gaskets and sprayed it with starting fluid again and same thing. I should say I'm spraying the shit out of it so is it possible that's why I can get it to stall out? I've decided to start checking the ignition system, the coil resistance seems off but I would think it wouldn't run at all if the coil was actually bad. Next I'm going to try testing the electronic conversion module. We'll see. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
The Jalopy Journal
