My "new" 1958 Ford Country Sedan - Project!

Any tips on new radiators for these cars? Macs had one for $500 and change- but that seems a bit steep.

 

there is a company US RADIATOR selling them 3 core for like 399... Griffin makes one for em too, but if 500 makes you cringe the griffin one will make you puke...

 

If $500 is reasonable, I guess I can live with it. Just a bit surprised I guess.

 

And thanks!

 

UPdate! I decided not to buy a new radiator until I determine that I have a running car first. So I got some radiator sealant and filled it up.

Put 4 gallons of gas into the tank.

Finished the oil change.

Proceeded to start it up. I primed the carb and took a screw driver to the solenoid to jump it.

Good news! The car started up right away. If only for a split second. I should have given it some gas and kept going - but I let off.

The next few tries were unssuccesful. I was getting a lot of sparking from the solenoid and no turning over. I kept at this for a little while.

Tried starting from inside the car. It still didnt turn over.

It seems like I must have fried something. The solenoid?

 

Yup, I killed the solenoid. Replaced it tonight it it turned over again. It wants to start, but it's not getting fuel from the tank.

When I pour some gas into the carb, it starts right up for half a second. Then dies.

 

Looks like I need to prime the fuel system.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=684

 

All your relatives are right, 58 Fords are ugly. If I were a little closer I'd be glad to take it off your hands and make all your relatives love you again. Till you get rid of it, that old Ford will show you who cares about you and who doesn't.

 

I used the air pressure method and it fired right up!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR4kuS_X264&feature=youtu.be

 

Ya got a super cool ride , have fun with it!

 

Yesterday was a good day.

I took the car for it's first "test drive." In quotes, because I have a circular drive way and just did 2 or 3 laps. But The car goes and it stops.

I still have a good bit more work to do before it's road-worthy, but there's light at the end of the tunnel.

Only one out of 4 tail lights work. None of the turn signals work. None of the brake lights work.

Does anyone have pointers on what to look for with these - beyond the obvious wiring and bulbs, of course. Just wondering about the switches and stuff.

Will try and post an updated video later.

 

Updated pic. I haven't put the new wheels on yet, cause I still don't have tires. But I had some decent 195/75/14's lying around that are safe and driveable.

 

The brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch, but the tail lights don't. First thing to do is get the parking lights working then trouble shoot the TSS and the brake lights. You should also check the stoplight switch to make sure you have juice going in and coming out before you do much of anything else.

 

Thanks. I 'm going to do the easy stuff first and replace all the bulbs and look for wiring problems.

 

Make sure all the sockets are super clean...spray the blinker switch with a good electrical contact cleaner...

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Awesome ride!


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after changing all the bulbs, the tail lights work - but the brake and blinkers don't.

Does this suggest anything in particular?

 

Several thousand years ago when that happened in my '59 Pontiac I recall having to change a relay. Perhaps the Ford has something similar?

Since I didn't know shit about electrics, was fortunate to have a very kind and knowledgeable lady at Bridge St. Auto Electric, in Morrisville, PA who would point at things and tell me what to replace, or remove and have her rebuild. Wish I could remember her name... she was a magic and powerful godess.

 

THanks, I talked to the dudes at Thunderbird Headquarters in Concord, CA and they gave me some tips. I replaced the brake pressure sensor and the blinker switch.

Wiggled the bulbs around a bit - and all the lights are working!

I know the rear lights dont all have perfect connections - but atleast I dont have to trouble shoot anything worse than a sloppy fitting bulb.

Couple things left to do and the car will be ready to drive!

 

When I was in the service I worked on a lot of those engines.one of the things we always had trouble with in those engines was no oiling to the upper engine (rockers) and the reason is the oil passage comes up through the block makes a 90 degree turn between the block and the head and another 90 and goes up through the bolt to the rocker arm shaft. Take the head off and clean it if there is no oiling to the top. Nicee car have fun.

 

Around your local area there may be a college that has an automotive shop. Most of the time if you take a project like that to the shop and you pay for the parts the students can do a really good job of fixing it up. They learn, you learn and it is a less expensive way to get a car up and on the road.

 

At least your making progress,it's all a learning process. HRP

 

I'm learning lots. And most of this stuff is really simple. It'll make future repairs easy.

I just need to get the ignition switch installed correctly and the carburator return spring figured out (once you press the gas pedal, it sticks) and the car is ready to hit the road.

After that - it's the interior that I'll be focused on.

 

Yah, for bigger issues I might take this route. I know of a couple local schools that charge something like $20/hour to do stuff.

 

Well, not actually the trunk. It feels like its coming from the front end.

The clunk goes away when I'm on the brakes.

Any ideas?

BTW - this is the furthest this car has driven in many years! Around the block. Most things work - other than the clunk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0xzJjE3eUM&feature=youtu.be

 

Well, that clunk was super easy to fix. Just a couple loose lugnuts is all!

I had to replace the voltage regulator and the generator - so atleast now my battery isn't always dying. It's still dying quite a bit but not as much. I don't know if I have stuff left on, or a short somewhere.

I've been driving the car around all week. First around the block, then to the gas station - each trip a little longer than the last.

The drive to my mechanics shop, water started collecting on the passenger side floor.

So I added some water while at the mechanics and drove home. Today I bypassed the heater core.

Drove the '58 over to Thunderbird Headquarters today - which is about 6 miles from my house. This is the furthest the car has gone in 20 or more years. It turns out those old TBirds have many of the same parts as the wagons.

Picked up a new heater core and all the mechanical widgets needed to make it work.

It's good to have a resource close to home that has all this stuff in stock AND knows what they're talking about.

They ordered me some front floor pans - which will be my next project. Looks like I will be learning how to weld!

 

Looks like you are bringing an old 1958 car back to life just like me, except you have a ford and I have a chevy. Keep up the progress!! And yes make more videos!

 

Yah. Doing many of the same things you are.

Have had a hellof a time getting the brakes dialed. I think I finally got it. I was able to lock them up, with my hands off the wheel and the car still goes straight. It only took 4 rebuilds of the front left wheel cylinder!

I'm fighting water leaks. I bypassed the heater core - and now the water pump is leaking. The water pump is brand new, and I don't feel like taking it out. So I've been removing all the bolts, covering in silicon and tightening them back up. Doesn't seem to be working.

But on the other hand, the leaks are intermittent. It's like the water pump is under higher pressure at different times.

 

When water pumps leak its usually the shaft seal. Rebuild orr replace the pump.

 

I just replaced it. It looks like its leaking from one of the bolts. I really don't want to tear this apart again - so I'm doing what I can to get those bolts sealed and tightened up.