62 Falcon Unibody on a different Chassis?

I'll post some pics in my profile this weekend.

 

Here's a Ford pickup with a later-model Lincoln chassis. Not mine. It came up in another thread.

http://www.youtube.com/v/liVmtbsh0pU&hl=en

Video and sound are a little wacky, but it gets the idea across.

 

Man... If I insulted you, I'm truly sorry! I was simply trying to make a point about what you already have and why change it. I never meant to "look down" on your abilities, I just want you to know whats involved in doing a frame under a car that was originally a unibody. I went back and read your second P.M. you sent a couple of weeks ago, and maybe with the situation you have, your car might be a good candidate for something as radical as you suggest. Have at it, but don't think for a minute I was lippy or cross with you in my last post. I just get a bunch of calls from guys frequently that were going to do an "easy" body/ frame swap, and now can't figure out problem X. Happens allot.

 

Hey, Chip, no disrespect and certainly no flame intended. I am now getting some things I can sink my teeth into from some of the brothers here and that means a lot to me. I need to do some more homework and EVERYONE of you is contributing to that process. I will get some pics up that are more clear than just my dang mobile phone and get some more info up. Looks like you folks from the north are helping me here a lot. My Gasser friends too. I am sorry if my actual friendliness doesn't just pop on thru...but, as I got this thing out from under a tree and have pulled most of it out I went...sheesh, OMG, depression set in then, I said to myself hey, get a handle on this you can do this. In the midst of raising family of 7 kids and wife and cat...well, they are all rooting for me and I don't want to let them down. I have started by ripping it apart and getting it down to the unibody. From there I must decide on finances and what end product I want. So, don't give up on me. It is a process for an old man on his last big kick...eh? I need to make this thru to the end counting the cost beforehand and having a sound plan for end design and frame integrity and nice sound and finished product within my abilities. If my abilities are not enough then pay for the kind of help I need to make it work. The end product is important to me. I have cerebral palsy so nothing has been very easy for me so I don't expect it to be. I do expect it to be a learning experience. But, as many have said and there is a saying about "counting the cost". So a plan with that in mind will certainly get me somewhere good. I am watching all the build threads and chop threads I assure you. So, I do need imput. I don't want to be a "hack". So, thanks for the ideas keep them coming. I will take some measurements as I go and lay the measurements on paper etc. If you have done this kind of thing please feel free to post pics of what you are talking about. Thanks, Bob

 

After looking at costs involved I guess I will go with Parallel Leaf front suspension and try taking care of floor pans after creating a laddered frame underbody.

 

If you really want something different, how about a double rail round tube chassis?


(Less the late model vette goodies, of course)

 

i've seen one locally with an S10 chassis and sbc in it... it wasn't pretty, or done correctly IMHO, BUT it seems like it started out as a sound idea, just poor execution. it all depends on what you have to work with as far as the original body. if mine were rotted out in the rails, i'd be looking for either a different car or a frame to set under it. i DID have to do extensive cowl and front floor repairs to it, but the rest of the body is WAY better off. the main thing that bugged me about the S10 install i saw, was that the builder had welded the body to the frame and then bridged the body and frame gap with flat sheetmetal. this put the seats about 9 inches higher than stock in the front, to get the front wheels into the wheelwells amd the rears under the car. not optimal or well thought out, just "get'r'done" quick and dirty work. if they had used drop spindles and lowering blocks on the back, they could have made it work so much better.

 

Keep in mind that for pedal clearance the front pans need to remain at factory depth. Thats an easy thing to overlook.
Wouldn't be much fun to have to push the pedal with your heel!
Shortening the pedal arm will increase the effort required so thats not a good option either.

Have at it..and post pics or questions...lots of guys here will be only too glad to help you out!

 

LOL...that looks great...Minus the shock towers we could keep the engine...LOL

 

go for it.... i have been wanting to do this. i have a s10 frame that i got for a 50 ford project but sold the car so believe me i have thought about it once or twice. my car is a low and slow i guess. airride with a 200 inline and c4. i really wanted to get it on the ground and be able to raise it to cruise on the hwy. i got close without massive modification but i guess once you want it low its hard to quit until its sitting on the ground!!!

this guy is building a radical slammed econoline with a vw tdi engine, toyota transmission, and 300zx rear end!!!
http://shawnhibmacronan.com/current

this guy is building a full frame ranchero
http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1964-ford-falcon-ranchero-15246

frame rails for sale
http://autoweldchassis.com/spec.ivnu

also you can look tci makes complete 4link bolt in rear and front mustang ii if you have the cash.

 

ha just realized how old this was. this car is probably done or sold by now lol

 

I think if I was going to do this I'd look at a Fox body V8 T-bird, cut down to the floorpans and front inner fenders, as a donor for the shell and fenders. They're cheap, they drive nice, and I would think they'd fit although no idea how far off the wheelbase would be.

 

Sounds like a gasser Falcon to me. I'm building one presently, and just recently got it on the road. I did mine a little different than some suggested. Not a full frame under it, and not a hand fabbed frame either. What I did was to add reinforcement to the existing frame by forming and welding on 1"x3" heavy wall box tubing to the underside of the front unibody frame. Then I added subframe connectors to that, and bolted/welded them to the front and the rear. After that I added tube from the connectors out to the rocker panels.
I put a Econoline straight axle up front, and a 8.8" Ford rear axle in the rear. Topped it off with a 464 BBC, and a Super T10 four speed.
Here's my build thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=810807

 

It sounds like if I was going to do this, one of my friends would do the right thing and hit me over the head with a baseball bat.

 

Why? Do your friends think you'll mess it up?

 

I have a 60 Falcon 2dr Wagon if you look at my pics you will see that my Wagon has a tube sub-frame connectors running from the front all the way back made from 2x3" welded in then plates welded to them tying everything together She can take a lot of toque and its not going anywhere.In my book this is over kill but I'm planing a BBF down the road if you would like I can get the measurements.If you need more shots of it let me know would be more than happy to do that for you

 

I built a tube chassis for my sedan delivery. Removed all the floor and subframe. I don't know if it was the best way, but it's getting rear motored, and the body will hinge in the front and raise like a backwards funny car. And yes, I'm doing it mostly, just because I can.

 

STOP already. It's a 3 year old thread, and the OP hasn't posted in three years.

 

Yeah, the guy last posted on the HAMB on 11/13/'10. I wonder if he built his wagon? And for the record, I've done what he had in mind using 2"X4" box tubing. My brother {Jangleguy here on the HAMB] drew up his new chassis and I welded it up for him. We used a complete '69 Opel GT front suspension and crossmember....originally unbolted from the Opel.
Welded in new inner rockers from 1/8th inch plate and welded stringers to them. Welded corresponding stringers to the outer frame rails and used thin rubber biscuits between them.
The body was a totally roached out '61 Morris minor tudor. Floor and unibody was so rusted there was no place left to attach suspension, engine, rear axle or tranny mounts. We saved a junk body and it's been strong enough through the years to finally get into the 9s in the 1/4 mile...hasn't come unraveled yet!

 

So I guess any replies wont help anyone else considering a similar project?

 

I know I have hit my head one too many times, but did I see that thing out on the salt? There is an odd memory, if I'm wrong. I hope I don't look back at this post as the beginning of the end.

 

No, but you did see one very similar to it on the Salt! The owner of the blown Morris is a local Portland guy, and I just met him and looked at his Morris about a week ago. It's running a 383 SBC, and is also satin black. I think it ran just over 140 mph with his street tires at Bonneville.

 

Actually...YES he did!
Jangleguy and his minions ran/skated it at Bonneville at 130+ mph and had a blast.
Heres a link!!!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182706

 

Tinbender, I want to chime in and say that chop looks SINISTER.

I know you've stated a desire to find another roof and "fix" it.

Please reconsider. I dig it big time.

 

Thanks, Yeah I'm still undecided. The car still does that "thing"to me everytime I look at it. In the end that's what matters. I've back burnered the car so many times, and it's gone thru several changes of direction. As have I ! . My custom Stude is going well and my main focus, so nothing else comes into the shop until the Stude is running and driving.

Oh, and I did try to put my Falcon on a S 10. It worked, but I just couldn't get the stance right!!!

 

Why would you take one unibody car and put it on another unibody car? I can't imagine what you would gain compared to updating the Falcon stuff. My 63 falcon with a triangulated rear 4 link, sub frame connectors, rack & pinion steering and modified tubular A Arm front suspension will out handle a Fox Body and was a hell of a lot less work.

Just not sure what that would accomplish

 

Seriously guys. There is no reason to put a conventional frame under one of these cars. It's a very stout unibody. Sub frame connectors do wonders . It's even worth it with a low power motor. If your going big motor or big HP then cage and some front suspension work, or must.2. The only reason I did mine the way I did was to be able to raise the body off the chassis to work on the rear motor.............and to lift the front wheels a bit once in awhile

 

Put some subframe connectors in, and put Pinto/Mustang II front suspension in it, I did that to a 64 Falcon years ago, it's the best thing you can do to one.

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> I have seen a Falcon with box tube run though firewall and out behind rear seat / floor.
Cross bracing was bolt on using crush tubes in the main square tubing with flanges on the x members. The front, rear suspension and roll cage bolted into the main frames. I didn’t get to see it finished but it was well thought out and looked low and almost stock at a glance.
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I think its still a relevant topic after all I found it while searching goggle for full frame falcon!!

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