Getting Ready to give the Old Gal a makeover. Epoxy Primer up to a Clear Coat. Is one, in ones opinion, any better than the other. Thanks, Stan
Buy high quality materials. Fresh out of the gun, sanded and buffed, you will be pleased with any materials you buy at that moment in time. Six months later after the cheap stuff dyes back and your finish shrinks and gets fuzzy looking you will be kicking yourself for not buying the good stuff. We warranty our paint work 100% as long as we choose the material we apply. If the customer wants to cut corners with cheap materials then all issues later on are on them. We use Matrix and PPG as the norm and go up from there. So far, using high quality materials, there have been no issues
I was told by a paint rep that the shop line does not hold up over time. I have used PPG for 30+ years with excellent results.
Spend your $$$$ on the clear. Example, DBU (top line) light tan, $105/qt in MI. Shopline, $56/qt. Shopline epoxy is actually better in many ways than DPLF and it's less than 1/2 the price and offers a longer non-sanding window. Shopline Plus has more colors available to mix for even better OEM matches and costs just a bit more. Ask yourself this...will this car sit in the parking lot at work all year getting baked in the sun? Will it endure salt, mud, gravel trucks and all the other hazards your DD will? The clear is the 1st line of defense against those things, and good quality clear doesn't care what flat base color it goes over. Shopline solvents are nearly identical to DT solvents, and again less than 1/2 the $$$$. I use Shopline products on 6 figure show cars with no ill effects, but I use the good stuff only where it counts. I use PPG "Velocity" primer/surfacer, #3055. It simply WILL NOT shrink once cured, and full cure is less than 24hrs. I also prefer Velocity 4000 clear. Cures very fast, surfaces way better than the Concept line, never "dies back" (I can explain the shit out of die back if you like), and doesn't give that phoney looking plastic shine that many 'thane clears do. Closest thing to lacquer I've seen since the glorious Deltron DAU82. Shopline 202 is an excellent primer as well, but I have seen shrinkage when applied too heavily. Over metal finished panels and blocked to the max, no shrinkage so far in my experience. I have my opinions about high priced products that I won't bother with, but remember that there's only a few solids, solvents, plasticizers and poly formulas out there, regardless of who's putting it in the can. I'll answer anything specific you'd like to know.
shop line is ppg. its low line. i use thousands of gallons of PPG products a year. cheap paints have poor vibrance in comparisson to the better toners in the higher lines of ppg like deltron and envirobase. just depends what you want. if you have poor prep it doesnt matter anyway. the shop line is great for the money and the clear is really nice. i am a deltron user the most, but dabble in shopline. my 2cents
trying to find a metallic rally green color and the only match I can see is from a company caller Restoration Shop I have a local PPG and Shop Line dealer locally. Would like to deal locally. Need my color though. Is Restoration Shop paint trash, or a good quality. I want a good quality Stan
Restoration shop is either Shopline or DBU, but I think it's DBU. When I think "Ralley Green" I think of that grassy metallic as found on 2nd gen Camaros and other GM cars. Go to your jobber, ask for "Shopline Plus" in the color code you want. That Resto Shop stuff has to have an OEM code, no? Also, your base color will change dramatically with different ground coats no matter what product line you use. Over white, brighter and more vibrant, over black, subdued somewhat, over similar solid green it will lose some depth but cover easily.
A little off the subject but DAR with 602 reducer. The p sheet i have says 8-6-1. I was told today that has changed to 8-4-1 thanks
I used squeeges line of epoxy primer/flat coatings and was very impressed,very inexpensive and covers very well plus the clear which has flattener in it is also epoxy and his epoxy fill primer is about the best I've ever used.
Restoration shop should be tcpglobal.com in house brand, tcpglobal sells ppg and house of colors, give them a call and ask if you use their base, what clear is compatible. Highlander is right,check 1970 camaro colors for the light almost olive green metallic, if its a match you can have anyone mix it to the paint code
http://www.tcpglobal.com/RestorationShop/ the color chart is lower on the page, what color are you looking at?
PPG code 43898 is the one I was thinking about. Intro'd in 69, it was around through 72 in a very similar color but a different code. Just an FYI, most 5 digit codes are premium colors, but not all. Shopline Plus can be used to formulate it. Good luck, and for the price should you have concerns, go order a pint and spray it out. The UV protection is in the clear so that's where you never want to cut corners. I just bought 1 1/2gal of Shopline "Zinc Yellow" and a gal of JR 507 reducer for $300. I doubt I'd get 1 gal of DBU for that price. If you're wondering, I sprayed my 1st complete at 14yrs old. I'll be 56 next week. I have a loyal client base, and they've received an enviable number of awards for their cars. Not all have been done in this lower priced matl, but some have. I'd defy anyone to tell the difference, now or 20yrs from now. Good work almost doesn't care what you use. This (which has been posted before) is Shopline:
As a 25 year veteran of autobody repair I have spayed PPG-Martin Senior-Dupont-Sikkens mostly PPG-Sikkens. On our 57 Buick Special I used the shop line of products. After talking with paint rep who I worked with 20 years in the body shop,Jerry informed me the UV protection would be less than his PPG product but for a vehicle that would spend more time in the garage than the parking lot I would be fine and I trust his knowledge & experiance with products he sells and represents. I'm very happy with the finished product. As with any paint job the prep work is everything and I believe you should use one product line from start to finish and read the label for correct mixing of all products. Picture of 57 after paint and after sand & buff.
Highlander....where did you get your tru-sweep & monkey tails hangin' on the wall??? I take it you use those to help check of balance between the body sides???Shawn
You can save quite a bit of money by using PPGs Shop Line base coat and a better clear, such as Global. This was recommended by my local PPG rep. If you're painting solid colors it will look great and be durable.
They came from a closed down Chrysler clay modeling studio. They weren't mine, yet I should have arranged to take them with me when I left as nobody there even knows the use or value of such a tool. I used them twice in 3yrs so an uncommon need, and the set was incomplete as well. Back in my day we called them "sweeps".
Yep sweep , or tru sweep, monkey tails are the french curve style...still use them at work...not very often, but they still see occasional use...Shawn
The Jalopy Journal
