Finally got an air compressor, need some help.

So I finally got an air compressor after procrastinating about getting one for like 3 years, and now I guess I have some "installation" questions. I bought a Quincy 80 gallon, 7.5 hp 2 stage compressor. First question is I plan on leaving it on the pallet, but was wondering if I need to loosen the bolts a little that hold the compressor to the pallet or should I leave them tight? I don't want any sort of vibration damage if that's possible. Eventually it will come off the pallet but won't be for a while. Next, the ball valve on the side of the compressor is 3/4" and I plan on using 3/8" air hose, How do I hook the air hose up to the ball valve? Is there some kind of reducer or something? Plan is to come off the tank, then to a filter/water separator/traps then to the main hose. Lastly is it does not have an on/off switch on the compressor, only a reset button I guess for if it trips a breaker or something. Anyways, when I'm not using it should I just turn the main breaker off or should I install a switch between the compressor and the breaker? Sorry if my questions are stupid but this is the first compressor I've owned and don't know much about setting them up.

 

Yes. I would wire it to a switch so you can turn it off when not in use.

And read this recent thread.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=814432&highlight=air+water+compressor

 

And this one...and a few others. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...highlight=compressor+air+water+cool+regulator

Go to the plumbing section of Home Depot and get a 3/4" dia. to 1/2" dia. adapter...and about 1/2 dozen other types of pipe fittings that you'll need. Black pipe, elbows, T fittings, etc...and the compressed air specific components such as drain valves. Do some research and careful planning on building your system, and you might only have to go back and forth to Home Depot 5 to 10 times...lol. It really isn't that difficult, but takes some time to get it all together. Good luck.

 

My compressor has been on the pallet since I bought it in the early 80's and it's been moved several times since then with no after effects (except replacing the head gasket and some other gaskets.

 

I left mine on the palllet going on 5 year. I have a hose after shut off valve and the pipe on the wall. I used an hydraulic hose from farm supply hose. Fairly cheap and rated at, I think.5000 pounds. I also rigged up a timer with a start push button set at 8 hours. I usually forget to turn it off before I go home. I turn it on first thing in the and it will shut down after 8 hours.

 

If i can offer some advice, makes sure you set it up away from your workbench. I had mine set up underneath my workbench and it used to give he a hell of a fright every time it kicked in especially when I was standing there daydreaming trying to figure something out on my rod then BAM! the compressor would start up and id nearly jump out of my skin.

 

If it has a motor starter just wire a small switch between the pressure switch and the motor starter.

 

Consider the location for the compressor. If you will be painting. you don't want it in the same room as it will draw paint into the intake. The 7.5 hp motor/ comp is kind of loud when running. Have an electrician to wire the machine for you, the 7.5 has a sizeable draw when it starts/runs. On my air supply installed a 120v electro/mechanical valve at the tank with the switch located at the door near the light switch, I turn all switches off when I go out the door, that saves switching a 220v circuit.

 

+1 Bob beat me to it but I highly recommend this. I had a friend that worked at a hydraulic shop make one up for me.

 

I took mine off the pallet and bolted hockey pucks to the legs.... it works great and you are still able to move the unit around (does not move otherwise)...
Tom

 

I built a small shed outside just behind my shop and pored a small concrete pad,I then drilled 4 holes and installed lag bolts and used round 55 Chevy type motor mounts to reduce vibration.

The reason I put the compressor outside was to reduce the noise,,they can be loud.

I have one designated switch in the fuse panel and flip it on and off.

Something that you need to remember using your compressor you are going to have moisture in your tank and will need to open the petcock at least once a month and drain the build up of moisture. HRP

 

If yours has the cheap finger operated water drain on the bottom of it, throw it away and go to the hardware store and get a 90 degree elbow and a ball valve with a handle on it.

 

I sat my compressor an 80 gallon unit un some pieces of rubber to absorb the vibration.. I use a flexible hose fom the compressor to the hard lines on the wall. As for a switch, I just throw the breaker when I want to shut off the compressor

 

My compressor has been on the shipping pallet for 25 years with some conveyor belting under it, I put an extra layer under the opposite end of the petcock so it would drain completely. Instead of black pipe I used 3/4 copper throughout the shop with good results (good volume). I plan on a dog house addition to put it in as it is rather loud.

 

Run some 3/4 PVC for a air line in the shop and put tees in line where you think you will need to install a air chuck. At the end of the line put a down turn and a ball valve to blow of water that collects in the line.

 

About removing the pallet from under the air compressor, the law (in MA.) states that the tank must be at least 1' above the floor and 1' away from any wall. This is to allow the air to escape in case of a tank rupture, without making the tank into a rocket ship.

The compressor should be in a cool place to allow the water in the tank to condense.
It is always best to keep it as far away as possible, to limit the noise from the working area.

I would not reduce the 3/4" fittings at the tank, but instead, place a 1' hose to the tank outet valve and to a 3/4" pipe on the wall to stop vibration. then run the pipe to the other side of the shop so that there are multiple places to attach air hoses.

Dont skimp on shut off valves, pipe unions or tee fittings along the way, they will come in handy for future modifications to the air system. Its really handy to have at least two hosed avaiable at every work area.

 

Plumb yourself an aftercooler if you want dry air. Removes 95% of the moisture BEFORE it accumulates in your tank. Your air tools will thank you. There are numerous threads on the net on how-to.

PS .......... PVC for airlines is dangerous, don't do it.


Read here-

www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

 

If you decide to use PVC pipe as Ice-man suggests use schedule 80. I took mine off the Pallet and use mounts that I got from Mcmaster-Carr. I put a fused disconnect by the compressor that is feed from the breaker in the entrance(fuse) box by my entrance door; I turn it off there when not using it.

 

DO NOT use PVC for compressed air piping. One accidental hit and you'll know why. Stick with galvanized or black pipe. Stay safe.

 

I have one on the pallet and the bolts are tight. I have another one not one the pallet that would walk around so I cut up some old tennis shoes and slipped them on the feet of the compressor and it stays put. The breaker you would wire it to is not an on off switch it needs to be wired to a disconnect and should be within sight of the compressor.

 

AND a male 3/4" garden hose fitting!

I use a commercial 5-hp with a horizontal tank. It never left the pallet it was delivered on over 30 years ago. And, yes, it has a 1/4-turn ball drain valve with a garden hose fitting!

 

Go to the TP Tools website. There are good schematics how to plumb your system for good, dry air. Mount your compressor on some hard rubber blocks and put a stainless flex hose between the compressor and the steel pipe. Bleed off the water at the end of each day.

 

Wow, Thanks for all the info everyone! Another question though, should I put a regulator right after the ball valve on the compressor before all the lines and if so what psi should I keep it at? It shuts off at 175 psi, so do I want that much pressure in the lines or run them lower? Also what kind of switch should I use for turning it off, just a regular light switch? Thanks again. This is the compressor I bought. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350477_200350477

 

I only run the regulator where I need regulated air I know thay say only 90 psi for air tool but that just don't work for me. I would put the regulator on the line for paint gun and some air tools that need regulating. The wireing needs to be hooked up to a disconnect that is rated for the HP and amp draw of the compressor.

 

Few things to consider...

Dont use black pipe. The moisture in the air will make the pipes rust, then your tools will wear out. Use galvanized. PVC is a big no no.

When you run your lines they should pitch back toward the tank. As the air comes out and hits the pipe it will cool and water will condense. If the pipes are pitched the condenced water will simply run back to the tank. You could also install a water trap right after the tank but the pipe still need to be pitched for it tp work properly.

Regualtors go as close to the tools as possible for resolution. For example if you are using a spray gun that needs 40psi your best bet is to put the regulator on the input of the spray gun.

Consider making two branches, one branch of air pipe that has a automatic oiler for your tools. Then make another branch that is dried and de-oiled for spaying finishes. If you pitch your pipe right you wont need a drier on the tool branch.

 

175 psi air in a system is insane. 80 psi is enough for most any job. Think what 175 psi out of an air nozzle is like when you start to dry small parts from the cleaner, better keep a close eye, you will be looking for them.

 

I know 175 is too much out the nozzle, I would have a regulator where I hook my air hose up to, was just wondering if I should have that much pressure in the piping or not.

 

Does your pressure switch have a small lever on it somewhere? I find it kinda hard to believe that a new compressor has NO means of shutting it off...

 

NAPA has a drain valve that's used for big truck air tanks that has a 3' or so cable on it - I put one on my compressor some years ago and just give the cable a little tug every morning to drain whatever's in the tank.

 

Hey man, I work for quincy compressor if you have any questions just PM me directly and for what its worth to everyone DO NOT USE PVC PIPE to plumb your system. even if you use sch80 your asking for trouble, what most people dont realize is the glues that hold your fittings together cannot withstand the oil that will eventually get downstream into your system. Also the high temperatures these units create will also cause a failure. As for black piping vs. galv use what you can afford they are both fine think of it this way the inside of the tank is no different than the inside of the black piping and will end up with rust particles downstream. Use a point of use line filter to help with that. Anyone who tells you galvanized pipe is rust free is crazy, I have been installing these units for 13 years and seen A LOT of rusty galvanized systems. Remember everytime you cut and thread a piece of galvy pipe you have just removed the galvanizing at the leading edge of your connection wich will rust and carry down. Did you buy a 3phase unit or single? You can put a switch onto the panel to start and stop it if need be.