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Starter Q. Repost

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brooksinc1976, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    Got a '56 chevy truck with a camaro clip and a 454 that has mid length headers. The headers are REAL close to my starter. When I go to start it wants to drag and barely turn over. I have checked the batt and its good. If I put jumper cables on it it helps. Some. This issue is present weather the eng is cold (I live in houston-95 today) or if its warmed up. Suggestions??? My buddy recommended a Jeggs compact high torque starter and heat wrap. Sounds good but I don't want to just through parts at the problem.



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  2. plaintoast
    Joined: Oct 23, 2012
    Posts: 13

    plaintoast
    Member
    from mora

    the high torque mini starter should help. being small it also gives more clearance from the exhaust.
    i use one on a hot rod with 13:1 compression and locked out timing, always cranks and fires up. i use another where the exhaust has almost no clearance and always fires too.
    the gear reduction, permanent magnet style seem to be best, not sure what jegs sells.
     
  3. Wowcars
    Joined: May 10, 2001
    Posts: 1,027

    Wowcars
    Member

    He is not wrong. I would buy both and just install the starter and run it a while to see how it works. And the 'blanket' if its needed. Another idea is to run a relay in your solenoid wire to give it some more power when its hot. If you aren't comfortable with wiring relays, lots of performance places sell a 'hot start' relay kit.


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  4. gas pumper
    Joined: Aug 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,957

    gas pumper
    Member

    Sometimes the ground connection where the starter fits the block is no good. Scrape off the paint there on the block and try again.
     

  5. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    heat blanket around the pipes near the starter or a heat sheild that bolts to the starter need to keep the heat away from the selinoid as thats were the problem is the puck in it cannot make a good enough circuit to the starter .
    the mini starter is good also as you can turn the selinoid away from the header pipe .
     
  6. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,594

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Are you sure its not a timing problem if it does it when it is cold? And as stated check the grounds.
     
  7. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    I pretty sure timing is not the issue. If I jump in and crank the 1st attempt is good if I let off and make multiple attempts it doesn't even want to turn over its like me trying to roll it over by hand- ha


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  8. Check for good grounds first.
     
  9. Agreed,do you have a ground from the frame to the block? HRP
     
  10. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    How long are your cables and what gauge ,also are all connections clean and tight.
     
  11. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    What's the history?

    Is the non-starting issue new, is the truck new to you, how far is the battery from the starter, how good is the battery under load, what kind of starter do you have now, what gauge is your wire/cable?

    The mini-starter is not only a good solution for heat-soak but it draws less amps than a
    OEM. By drawing less amps it will help compensate for wire size, distance and battery size/condition.

    I use a Summit SUM-829000 on a SBC with 9.5:1 compression, headers and a remotely mounted Odyssey PC-680 battery. It always starts the first time, hot or cold.
     
  12. brooksinc1976
    Joined: Dec 4, 2009
    Posts: 282

    brooksinc1976
    Member
    from P-Town

    The truck is a life long affair(16 yrs). Not sure of the gauge but thick. El cheapo orialys starter. The truck only has 50-100 mi on it since drivable and the start issue seems to be getting worse. I think I'm gona try heat wrap and see if the starter is still under warranty. If not daddys gettin a new one.


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  13. Capt Crash
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 108

    Capt Crash
    Member
    from Colorado

    Quoted for truth. Most every time that I have had a starter issue like you are describing, It has been fixed with a good ground. Now I will have 3 grounds. #1 between frame and body. #2 between frame and engine. #3 between body and engine. I also use a Ford starter solonoid on any high performance cars, and mount it away from the exhaust.
    Brian
     
  14. Commish
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 379

    Commish
    Member
    from NW Ok

    That description sounds like low capacity from the battery, or bad connections, bad connections can keep charge from getting in to the battery as well as back out. If it was a hot only problem then I would be looking at some of the starter solutions.
     
  15. Your saying it does it hot or cold and jumper cables barely help, has it always been this way?. I would check to make sure the ground wires are tight, check to make sure the ground wires are a big enough gauge, check to make sure you have everything grounded (battery to frame or block, block to frame). Make sure the power wire is a big enough gauge and tight. Then I would check to make sure the starter isn't baked.

    If you do need a new one Chevrolet made some smaller Second Production, w/ Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction starters in about 1995-2000 for stock trucks small and big block.
    [​IMG]
     

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