got taillights and turn signals front and back working still have the following left: - horn (it works just need to connect it to steering wheel) - rear backup lights - replace all burnt idiot light bulbs and wire them - fuel sender - electric fuel pump (hell i gotta see if i even HAVE one lol) - temp gauge and light - dome lights - radio - neutral safety switch at some point - reinstall the fuse box nicely - solder all joints after testing 1 more time - get a box of 5, 10, 15 amp fuses since the $300 kit didnt come with ANY spares lol - tidey everything up and wrap it with the covering flexhose covering - pray it passes inspection - drive the piss out of it
my list is down to the backup lights, fuel sender, lighting for radio, and changing out the flasher. by this weekend I will be done and working on some interior stuff
well i was wrong. this piece of shit harness sucks. no extra fuses included for 300.00. un friggin real. i will never EVER buy anything from ron francis ever again. piece of shit GM styled hi low light switch just snapped while trying to install the little lever that pulls in/out for lights. oh and thyat lever was too short for my factory application so i had to undo my stock one and retrofit it. now i have to retrofit the wires from the GM supplied POS light switch to my stock one. un frigging real. for 300 this thing is a piece of garbage.
Stay calm. Ron Francis is a good product. I prefer AAW but none the less. Step back and stop stressing. Go back to it after a break. Inexperience in wiring is the number one cause for your stress. Its easy, take it one step at a time
ha yea. to say i was pissed is fair. since calmed down. i still dont think its a great product for what needs to be done - everything has to be cut and spliced into original wires etc. but i have to take some responsibility too. just bothers me that i now have to order another switch and lost a full days efforts. oh well lie happens. will get back at it tis weekend. thanks for letting me rant/vent
Not a fan of Ron Francis either. My choice is Centech, it is compact and clean. Also the cover is at the correct depth not to blow fuses every time you remove or install them. If you are using the original wires be carful of them being brittle or corroded, your wiring will only be as good as the weakest wire and be sure that everything is grounded or it will find a ground somewhere and cause all kinds of confusion with the wiring in your brain. Jim (55willys)
Think of it this way. You have all the material you need to build your own harness from scratch, and it sounds like that's exactly what you've been doing. One circuit is no more or less a mystery than the next. If you got your first one working you are well on your way. When I did my 47 there was a harness in the trunk, no box, no instructions. BUT, all the wires were there, marked all along their length as to where they went, so you just follow your logic. Power comes from the battery to the unit you want to power, then on to ground. You can do this. Take your time.
well went up to advance auto and got a new switch for $12 instead of $41 from ron francis. installed it and got all the light back. tested the fuel and temp gauges for continuity and hve some (.12 on the 20 scale - is hat good? the needles did move). of course the former owner had the glass lenses in backwards so the needles themselves are bent to all hell. so now its time to find a used dash on the fleabay. also watched some vids regarding puled power from the constant voltage regulator that the rep at Ron Francis said NOT to use. when i tried it his way i got a nice burnt smell in all of 30 seconds lol. going to go back to factory style and run the power wire from the harness to the constant voltage regulator and see if i get pulsed power. if i do then i will continue on with gauges etc. i feel better now. at least my lights are back lol!
well got the idiot lights working! so now its a matter of installing the new old gauges and getting a new fuel sender. may grab a couple 1.5 inch gauges for water and oil temp and charging system since i have a 1 wire alternator and no idea how to rig that up to the genny light. i tried and the genny light stays lit all the time even with key off. im ok with some small white gauges that will help me snure she is running as expected. debating a cheapie radio for longer rides. dont need it now but might as well since i am running all the wiring anyway. pretty excited. i know i battled this thing but to have functioning turn signals, brake lights, indicators, wipers, horn, headlights and even the interior lights (no dome or glove/ash tray lights yet tho) is pretty satisfying. i learned a ton and only had to re-lengthen 1 wire after i cut it too short! - thanks for letting me vent/rant/attempt t get this done via the forum - jason
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