Was installing the new front fenders I got and the front mount location that attaches to the rad support bracket is about 1.25" higher than the front support. With some weight i can push down on the fender and it will slightly flex down allowing me to slid the fender under the support as it should mount. This rad support I currently have is originally from a 1952 3/4 ton. Does anyone know if the rad supports came if different heights or possibly if the mount at the bottom was slightly different where it bolted to the chassis? I will post a pic when i get home tonight.
Did this truck's frame have the crossmember under the bellhousing removed during and engine swap in years past? From past experience my best guess is that the brackets that the front of the cab mounts on have twisted the frame from the weight on them if the crossmember is missing to the point that the front of the cab is laying on the top of the frame rails. Measure the clearance between the bottom of the cab floor and the frame like it shows here and see what you have. I think raising the front of the cab back up will cure the problem for a while until the frame twists more and it sags again. This is an ongoing problem when doing engine and trans swaps in these trucks. Along with the outboard mount I'd figure out how to put a mount on top of the frame rail or right at the frame rail to handle the weight. This is the reason that you see so many AD trucks that look bent at the cowl when you walk around rod trots and look at the trucks and the hood to cab lines don't flow right
did you remove and reinstall the radiator support bracket?? The reason I asked is because there should be 2 rubber pads, one at each of the support bracket mounting holes that is place between the frame and the support bracket. See photo
Thanks for the fast response. It looks like by the picture you have the same assembly manual i got lol. I noticed this issue yesterday around midnight and never got around to checking my clearances just yet. The cross member has bee removed and reinstalled so many times over the years as the chassis sat at my house and body at my parents. Now it has a new tube cross member installed to clear the power brake system. How would raising the front of the cab help the condition? it would just make the front mount hole at the rad support location higher and require the fender to be bent down more? Bit of background on my truck. Bought it 16 years ago as a 1952 3/4 ton with a 55 inline 235 in in. Tossed the 3/4 ton chassis, and found a 49 1/2 ton chassis to use. Also tossed the 3/4 ton running boards, rear box and rear fenders due to the condition. All other components such as rad support, fender brackets, pedal linkages are or have been reused.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0103.htm step 9 step 11 check the clearances and shim as needed. shims at the rear cab mounts will lower the front.
Ok, I may have read that backwards. It could be that it's the back of the cab rather than the front of the cab that needs to come up a bit to bring the fenders down in front. I spent too much time fighting the problem I described. Photos would help at this time.
Took a look at the dimensions from the chassis to the cab and all checks out fine. Drove to my parents to grab a original front fender and installed it on the same side. The original fits perfect and does not need to be pushed down to go under the rad bracket, it just needs to be lifted about 1/4" to touch. It looks like the new fender is not pressed at the exact same profile. The holes at the rear of the fender line up nice with the cab mounting holes. It seems that the fender when manufactured does not have enough relief bends in it along the top to get it to sit at the right level. See GREEN area in pic. When pushing it down to the rad support it seems that the hood line stays nice and consistent and moves evenly downward as not to cause any high points along the line. RED line. The PINK line is where the fender decides to somewhat bow out to allow for the flex. when attached to the inner fender I have a feeling this will be an issue. The rear of the fender fits perfect!
Those are new reproduction fenders? If so they are made offshore and they might not be as they are supposed to be.You'll have to make them fit....But I believe the original fenders also have a"funny" area where you drew the redline
Yep! quality over seas product! The originals are just going to be lots of work but you never know...these new ones might be just the same lol.
I think you should fit the hood,close it down and see how it looks.If ok,then do whatever to get the inner panel fitted in there.
Front end sheet metal on the AD are notorious for fitment. Even using original sheetmetal on a different cab can be a bitch. You will have to do a combination of all the things posted above as well as some not mentioned. Just be patient and keep at it.
I have always found that assembling the entire front clip leaving the bolts slightly loose, then installing it as a unit helps for me. That is how we were taught in autobody repair votech class back in the '70s.
What he said. Hood to fender fit will ultimately be what makes or breaks acceptability in your eye. If I'd seen a beer fridge in the pics I might have been more inclined to come give you a hand. What part of town you in?
Is it possible that someone could measure from the top of the chassis to the underside of the support leg that sticks out on the rad mount. I'm getting 19 1/2" on mine.
I measured that distance at 20" while tinkering with mine today. Bummer that a factory panel/burb swaybar unit interfered with my oil filter setup. The inner fenders mount to the core support in several places so I think you need the inners and outers together to mock up the clip.
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