if I put a 427 ci motor in my 61 impala, will the stock rear end hold up on burn outs, its 373 gears .
If it hooks it will start breaking parts...axles, carrier caps, and the center bearing in the driveshaft. Bill
Well, that diff held up to 425 horse 409's so I don't see why not. If you mount slicks or stickey tires and side step the clutch at red line, yeah, it'll shell. An occasional rubber laying episode I think you'd be fine.
dem ONE wheel burnouts el be OK... as Bill says it hooks up parts will be broken.... so the answer is YES/NO
make sure your carrier bearing and u joints are in good shape, and keep the traction somewhat limited.
What Eric said about u-joints, ect.!! I had a '55 chevy gasser, same rearend, 456 PT, with a old set of slicks, hooked up pretty good, did not have any trouble with the rearend, had a built 348--bored, 12&1/2 to 1 pistons, running around 450 horse, never broke nothing in the rear, was ran a drag strip only. Good Luck.....Ray...
If you need/want to keep the stock rear end, then you need Aubrey Bruneau's complete setup. Converts to MOPAR axle bearings, axle ends, and 30 spline side gears and axles. Go to BruneauPerformance.Ca for the info. For my rear end in my 56' Delivery, I have his bearing cap supports, Yukon axles, and DANA Positraction; it should be fairly strong compared to stock. Many years ago, the 56 Chevrolet Business Coupe I first put together for the street, had a 375 HP 396, Muncie 4-speed, and the stock rear end with a Positraction and 5.38 gears. It held up fine with treaded, street tires. Butch/56sedandeliovery.
Do chevy;s make enough power to break parts?...Flame away I'm leaving for the Road Rockets Rumble in 5.4.3.2.1. OUT!
A stock 283 can break those rear-ends...if the operator is hamb-fisted a tad.. And if you skid one wheel for long enough in a burn-out you'll fry the side gears.
Back in the day, I had a 61 bubble top with a 409, I broken everything, Twisted both axles at one time ,Broke the drive shaft at the carrier bearing in half, blew the pumkins case out the side and pulled the rear crossmember loose from the frame.Installed a pair of ladder bars and then cracked the frame in half. Sold the car after that.
Listen to the voices of experience or pay the price...time after time....believe me,you will find the weak link time after time....I did! Lets see...in no particular order...u-joints,carrier brgs,spidys,ring and pinion,wheel studs...I even ripped the control arm bracket offa the axle housing....all this when my 64 Impala S.S. was only 14 years old,and with an 11-1 327 on street tires.....so draw your own concusions....I guess it all depends how much money ya got and how much ya like wrenchin....
Let's see here... A Ford (R-code??) 427/425 vs a Chevy (L-72) 427/425... I think the Ford will come out on top... Now let's say we throw in the Mopar 426/425 Hemi.... I wonder whose tail lights we'll see first at the end of a run????...
Repair, burnout, repeat. It all fun and games until something breaks, then it f&^%$ hilarious. Have fun.
Them rears are in the same league with early ford transmissions ….. Just barely adequate for there stock application Sometimes if your do a real good job of blowing one up, its almost imposable to get out of the housing
There is a reason that 57 Olds rears were so popular in the 60s before the 9" Ford took over. I broke my spider gears in my 38 Chevy coupe (55-64 Chevy) and I was not doing what we think of as a burn out. They are stronger than peanut butter but barely.
If I remember correctly, spider gears were rather crumbly. I took mine out with a good, not great, 350.
Back in the day, Jenkins and Stahl (and probably alot of other guys once word got out) did a LOT of trick shit inside these rears to TRY to get them to live at least a few rounds. Re-enforcing the right side cap, drilling/tapping the holes deeper, better fasteners, turning the backside of the ring gear carrier smooth and drilling/tapping a hole in the 3rd member so they could run a brass tipped bolt in there so it was almost touching the backside of the carrier right behind the pinion/crown intersection, cold stabilizing the axles, Duffys made trick spider gears, ect. The ten bolts that "lived" behind the 425hp/409s during the early SS wars had a hell of a lot done insdie them, and they STILL broke pretty frequently.
This 375 HP 396, I bought from a guy that had it in a 62 Impala SS. He was always breaking the "third arm" in the rear suspension. He even tore it completely out of the frame, and then kept breaking his welds. He sold the BBC to me, put a SBC back in, and that stopped the carnage until he sold the car a few years later. Aubrey Bruneau claims you can't run a tire larger than 29 inches in diameter, and the 3.55 and 4.88 gear sets are the strongest due to the relation of the teeth to one another, and thickness of the gears. There are 10 and 12 bolts that swap in with only a change of upper trailing arms (I believe). I think one of the biggest things against these rears now is simply the age of them. They were't the strongest to start with, but can be made to handle decent power, it's just costly, and there are cheaper ways. I also think a one piece drive line conversion would also help a lot. You also have to add a 4th arm to the rear suspension, that's also part of Bruneau's package. Butch/56sedandelivery.
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