Hot Rods Throttle pedal buy and install.

Am at the point where the throttle pedal needs to be installed. Am going with firewall mount spoon type or similar. Getting ready to buy Lokar and I have a question concerning the cable. I have the cable also Lokar and a spoon type to use for mock-up that came with the car. In positioning the pedal, does it have to be positioned so there is no down ward deflection after passing through the firewall or can there be some slight downward deflection to the connection at the pedal arm.

 

It will grind to fit. Don't like that answer? It will wear to fit or break. Or...make it fit.

We are good? Right.

 

Whaaaaaaaa ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

How much difference? A little is ok, but a hard angle the cable will start cutting into the housing.

 

you need to line it up dead nuts if you can. otherwise the cable will cut into the threaded sleave and keep cutting!

 

wow i thought thats what this place was for! answering questions! i thought lokar made good shit! so its not cool to order parts from a catalog. i will remember that!

 

It is, but some guys dont like answering really basic questions.

 

So much for, "There's no such thing as a silly question." It's not like he wanted to know how to wash his car.

 

you might alter the lever that the cable hooks to, make it longer or ? so the cable runs as straight as you can

 

wow!

 

Id be willing to bet the cable and/or pedal came with instructions.

 

Best answer ever from someone who does not want to make it fit.......

 

Yeah they don't like answering easy questions, but don't mind taking the time to be abusive.

 

they dont ask questions! they just know!

 

Don't buy the braided stainless, when the cover pulls out the firewall fitting it's a PITA to reinstall. Or so I heard.

But what was said earlier, more than minimum deflection will cause the cable to cut a groove in the fitting.

 

Smartest thing I ever did was switch from a cable to a conventional linkage. It seems the braided hose only likes a smooth bend, otherwise it frays and you get a stuck throttle. Happened to me and it really sucked. WOT at an intersection.

 

Look my friend I don't know who pissed in your corn flakes or why you don't think I want to "make it fit" as you sarcastically put it but the reason I asked the question is because like other here have said, no question is a dumb question, there only stupid answers like the one you posted.
I'm 74 years old, built my 1st project when I was 10 years old, (a pram boat) and had a career as a shop fabricator making everything from simple stairs to nuclear power plants, then as a manufacturing engineer "making things fit as you put it".
I had never had the experience of installing a throttle pedal and so thought the benefit of all who frequent this page could give me good advise, which they did.
Two very well educated and respected men in my life said something I try to follow.
"If your can't say anything nice, (or productive) keep your damned mouth shut.
Have your self a wonderful day,

 

At total release of tension it should come out of the firewall nipple to the mounting position on the pedal with as little deflection as possible.... But from the pivot point, the pedal does travel in a arch, So the deflection will change slightly downward. With that said, you probably can mount your pedal a little higher.

But, some pedal assembles are on a spline and can be adjusted... Or you could cut it above the pivot to get the pedal location where you want it, As long as your ratio stays close.

 

---read the instructions? I did once, and think that it said to have a slight curve in cable after mounting at firewall to carb which allows for some flexibility - not just a rigid straight cable. but, where cable goes through firewall needs to be as straight of a shot as possible to gas pedal lever. solid linkage can work but, sometimes hard to find a set up at todays pick'n'pull style wrecking yards.

 

he is saying work with it.
As for downward deflection that is why you are using a cable it makes it easier to hit your carb linkeage without a lot of engineering. Less Rube Goldberg more straight forward.

So Larry I missed your intro and have a question for you. OK? "First car?"

 

I don't know, I thought it was a perfectly good question.

I've used a bunch of Lokar cable setups and there is some flexibility in how much angle they will take without a problem. I try to get the little hole in the end of the pedal arm as aligned to the hole in the firewall as possible, when the pedal is in the closed position. The arm is long enough that it will not travel in a very severe arc, and it only moves back a few inches max, so it really never has been an issue.

Sometimes the cable will exit and have to go on a very steep angle to line up with your carb, it just works out that way, but even when I have had to make a couple of tight 90 degree turns the cable still pulls smoothly and doesn't seem to cut into the housing at all. I have found I have to put some oil or graphite on the cable every so often as water gets into the housing and it will start to idle a little higher than normal and I have to tap the gas pedal with my foot to get it to go to dead idle. But as soon as I lube it things free up and it works good again.

Use double springs on the carb, it is safer and makes the pedal feel more like your daily driver.


Don

 

I used the Problem Solver spoon throttle from Speedway on my last project.It`s glitchy, rattles and I had to install a plastic sleeve inside the housing to help with the friction issue. I didn`t put it in an excessive bind and supported it on both ends.
Next time I`m doing a solid rod throttle.

 

I used a factory '91 GM TBI throttle cable,,you can slip the ends off, shorten the cable and put it back together.

 

same here with a factory cable off of a Chev. (77). I used the bracket off the same truck and have no problems and there is a pretty steep bend in the cable, I lube it once a month and have had no problems with sticking. Locars are pretty but factory is functional.

 

Well not the first car, but the first one fabricated from frame up. Had the tri-five chev's, 63 409 four speed, and just sold a original dual quad Rivi GS. Just did the usual stuff with them, tires, rims, engine dress up no real fabrication stuff. Thanks for asking.

 

The question was answered in post 4 and 5. Need to grow thicker skin if your ONLY replies were to the drama posts.

HAMB can (and often will) be brutal on easy questions.

 

Well you'd be wrong and loose your money because nothing was said about how it is to be installed regarding this question, only how to pass it through the firewall which most guys can do if they have any mechanical aptitude at all.
This guy insulted me saying I don't know what I'm doing in both his reply's. To me that's and insult and demands my response.
I do appreciate your first answer, thank you. Call it drama if you want, but I'd wager you defend your self when need be also.

I haven't been around these parts long so if this is the kind of BS that comes back on occasion, it will be a long time until I ask another one.

 

more than occasionally around here!!!!

 

Lifes too short to get worked up over what a name on a screen says, specially one you will probably never meet.

Its your potential heart attack, feel free.