I have a 59 Ford with a 292 Y Block that I'm having an issue with. Last fall I installed a pertronix and coil and got it timed and running great. Then it sat all winter while the bodywork and paint was getting done. I went to drive it after the paint was done and the timing was way off. It was so bad that I couldn't advance the timing enough because the vacuum advance was hitting the intake. I removed the distributor, found TDC, reinstalled in the correct position, got the advance adjustment I needed and got it running great again. Last week I had all new exhaust ran, got it home and it was running shitty again. This time it just needed advanced a little. By the way the timing marks are all but gone on the dampener so I am tuning by vacuum gauge. Anyway, a few days later I was getting the car ready for the first cruise of the summer and I went to start it and nothing. Once again the timing needed to be advanced beyond what the intake would allow. So what's the problem here? I'm leaning toward a worn timing chain, but don't want to get into that if I don't need too.
Worn chain will do it, one gave me fits until I figured out what was going on. To confirm before you dig into it, pull the cap and watch the dizzy shaft for excess play as you slowly bar the crank back and forth. Also check the crank pulley real close for deteriorated rubber, the outer rings have been known to shift on the hubs which throws the maks off.
I'd suspect the distributor is moving. I had a 63 Corvette and it suddenly started to run bad as I left a traffic light. When I got to work I advanced the timing until it ran fine again. It happened again so I disconnected the tach drive and it never happened again. The tach drive would hang up and the distributor would move. it had me going for a while. I think you need to find out what is causing your distributor to move.
Pull the distributor and check the roll pin in the gear, I had one that sheared the pin and let the gear twist on the shaft. Every time I took it out for a drive the timing would retard a few degrees. look carefully, it may look fine until you try to drive the pin out
I agree w/Ridgerunner. Pull the cap & rock the engine back & forth with a breaker bar while watching the rotor. If the crank pulley moves too much more that 1/2in. it usually indicates a worn chain/gear assy. You also might ck to see if the distributor gear isn't turning on the shaft.
The chain or the roll pin are both good things to look for. If you keep setting the timing and lock it down but it has changed to the point that you have to pull the dizzy to get it right again I'm thinking the gear is moving. If your chain is that sloppy you should get in there and change it, your valve timing will be way off, you may notice a large performance improvement.
If it was the timing chain the cam would be retarded and he said it ran fine after reseting the distributor. I vote for the distributor gear or the pin.
Thanks for the input. Today I removed the distributor, checked the two roll pins on the shaft, both were in one piece and doing their job. So, I reinstalled the distributor, started the car, let it warm up and set the timing. I drove it down the street and back and on the way home it was running shitty again. The car stalled out when I got to the driveway, and once again I had to max out the advance just to get it started. What am I missing here? If it was the timing chain skipping it wouldn't have happened 4 times and still be running good when it's actually in time.
i know this sounds simple but check your distributer holder/retainer is actually holding your distributer could it be that your distributer is slipping around and messing the timing perhaps since you are using an aftermarket distributer, the stock one is not holding it properly and its moving around
The distributor is not moving. The hold down is working fine. I even marked it's location to verify. Thanks.
have you checked the distributor mechanical advance,,, to make sure it is advancing and returning freely and also the vacuum advance ,, Does your car have the dual diaphram advance and retard distributor that may be not working properly,, Just something else to check ,, hope it helps ..
Thanks for everyone's input. I removed the distributor again today and held the gear on one hand and the rotor in the other and spun the rotor a full 360. New distributor will be in tomorrow.
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