Ok so total newbee to this action, we borrowed a fixture from a mate and set about cutting 1 inch out of each end and tiged it all up no sweat. I did a test fit with the original axles thinking that they would need 1 inch cut off to match. But when i put them in till they stopped it looks like i only need to take off 1/2 each side? What am i missing or is this as it shouild be? Thanks for your help.
Probably enough splines to go in the extra amount. I'd cut off same amount from each axle that was removed from each axle tube.
That would require re splining as there is no enough splines. I`m ok doing that but if i don`t have too that would save $100. My question should read what is the norm?
I think that is normal. Most axles don't go all the way in to the cross pin.Can you cut off the 1/2" needed to go in?
I think i`ll have a machinist do it on a lathe but i`ll have him drill the centering hole deeper just in case it does have to be shortened and re splined further. Does it hurt to be up against the cross pin? does not sound good. And can you cut an axle with a chop saw with out effing it up ie: to hot?
Doesn't need to rub the pin but it can be close.measure how much it needs to go in and ad an extra 1/8" or so.I don't think a chop saw would get it hot enough to hurt.Put some paint or something on the splines and slide it back in to see if it is running out of spines or hitting the pin.You will know how much you can cut off or if it won't work.
I would, as I do, cut them with a thin cutoff wheel in a hand grinder, rather than a chop saw. The chop saw blade is way thicker, and thus generates way more heat during the cut. Go slowly, and let the tool do the work. You will be surprised how well it works. I put a stainless hose clamp around the part of the axle I want to save, to act as a guide, and to keep me from nicking the axle with the tool, if/when I spaz out. Cut toward the screw mechanism, as it is wider than the band, and end the cut there.
I got lucky and called an axle resplining co. before I narrowed my existing axle housing. He recommended a much wider axle assembly so that he could respline my used axles instead of having to have custom length axles made. I was told that he could not respline an axle a small amount. I bought the recommended wide 9" rear and sent him the axles. He cut them, respined them installed new bearings and seals for a lot less money than it would cost to have custom axles made.
As a way to verify your measurement why not put the center section in and go in with a tape measure, hook the spline (important to make sure you indeed have hooked the spline) and measure out to the housing end. Add your brake spacing and check your existing axles. This is probably not the way to measure for new axles but a quick way to compare notes. Andy from STL
Well i took the backing plates of to get a better look at the fit and what do ya know? Yes indeed it does need an inch taken out to fit. should have done this in the first place. Dooh.
Spend about $20 for a "dog bone" tool and it will answer all of your housing and axle shortening questions. It's cheap insurance to get it all right the first time.
I got the one pictured from Dutchman Axles. It's listed in the tool section. I only bought the Ford 9", but they make several.
If these are factory axles you may not be able only to take an 1" out each end. Usually on the axles at least 4" is taken off and than the resplining done. Found out the hard way, sent some axles out to Moser and was told they couldn't do it. I needed less than the 4" removed also.
Thats a slick tool, i'll have to invest in one of them.. I have the alston narrowing kit i bought back in early 80's and it came with a plate to bolt onto the housing that locates the pinion - for making drag race rears where the pinion is centered. thanks, oj
The dog bone is neat, but not really necessary IF you have the original donor axles. As mentioned, they should be shortened the same amount as the housing (or new axles ordered based on the original lengths). If you are building a complete rear end from scratch, that dog bone is very helpful.
I find the dogbone usefull when shortening a housing to double check pinion offset and tube length before welding. Also nice to confirm axle length once you know what brake offset to add to the dimension from end of axle spline to end of housing length.
The factory splines are rolled in. The starting diameter is smaller than what is needed for cut splines, so the reduced diameter section needs to be cut off, and the new splines cut into a full diameter section.
Leadmine products, a dealer on Ebay also sells a version of the "dogbone". I like it. A marked/punched flat piece of sheet metal that fits the housing. Shows axle centerline, pinion centerline, housing opening centerline and height, axle length. I have cut many axles with a 14" abrasive cut wheel. Just use a narrow, good quality blade and heat buildup is minimal. Just cut a pair of aftermkt axles for my Studebaker last Saturday.