This may be a dumb question, but I've never replaced a starter and want to make sure I'm getting the right thing. My 63 Galaxie has an FE390 from a 66. And a 3 speed tranny from an early seventies Country Squire. I need a new starter as the one that is currently on it is getting really weak and tired, and has heat sync issues. But I have since been able to get the engine cooler, but the starter still acts up. So I want to put a brand new hi-torque mini starter on it. My issue is that I'm not sure what starter will fit correctly. I know the one currently on it is a 3 bolt Motorcraft. And that's about it. I took some photos underneath the car of what is on it. Also, below is a link to what I would like to get. But before I pull the trigger on ordering that new one, does anyone see any reason that the new one wouldn't work for my application? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9506
A bit pricey by my cheap-bastard standards. You could have yours rebuilt at a local auto-electric shop for 1/2 of that. It looks like they incorporated the solenoid into it as well. Bob
I just want to put a nice shiny new one on it. The one on there now was on when I got the car. So I know nothing about it. I don't want the old one rebuilt because I need something with more torque and something that stands up to heat better.
+1 BIG time, Have your rebuilt by a quality local shop. If you put Mini Starter in the Hamb search 90% of the threads that pop up are about PROBLEMS with mini starters after people spent a crap load of money on them and they don't fit right or work right. Most of the "won't work right when hot" problem you might be experiencing is due to the worn out bushings in the starter and not the design of the starter.
Just curious - is the issue the car won't start when it's hot or the starter itself is having issues with hot starts? Every FE stock starter I've had hasn't had an issue spinning over. Maybe a heat shield between it and the exhaust would help. Just trying to save ya a few $. You may also have issues with the solenoid, corrosion or the battery may be getting weak. Tyson Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I replaced the stock starter on my 4 spd FE with a Jegs mini starter and never had a problem. It was nice having a gear reduction starter both for the heat soak issues and running higher compression. Best decision I made, but not "traditional" and maybe i just got lucky......
So I had the engine rebuilt 2 years ago. Ever since I got it back it ran really hot when I would let it idle or get stuck in traffic. Real hot like 220+. But then after some research I realized that the guy who rebuilt the engine had the timing set too low. It was at 6 degrees. So everyone told me to set it at 12-14. I set it at 12 and now it runs way cooler. But it seems that for the past 2 years, every time I try to restart the car after the engine it hot, the starter seizes up and I have to wait for the car to cool for about 1-2 hours before it will start. And it keeps getting worse and worse. Now I could understand this happening when the engine was running hot, but now the engine runs at around 185 (which is not excessively hot) and it still does it. The battery and charging system has been tested and is running just fine. The starter relay on the inner fender is brand new too. The starter is the only thing in the equation that has not been replaced. So I want to replace it to rule it out. I don't know how old the starter on it is, or know anything about it really. So I would rather put a nice brand new one on it than rebuild an old one.
After working for Ford dealers for over 25 years I have never seen a OEM type starter like yours ever had a "heat soak" problem. That type of starter does not have solenoid on it but a relay on the apron as you mention. I have a 57 Ranchero with a 351W stroked out to 396 and if it sits for a short time after driving on a hot day the temp gauge will almost peg out yet it will start everytime with the Summit Racing gear reduction starter. Never had a starter problem with it. Went to gear reduction because of space issue with headers and stock starter. Stock starts will even spin 427 with 12:1 comp.
Not knowing how to replace the starter makes me think you're new to the game. If I'm wrong, correct me. Going on that, I'd try a heat shield first. If you're dead set on getting a new one, don't get a hi torque, just get a new one and install a heat shield. Replace the solenoid too. Check ALL your wiring. Do it right. I have not seen all the horror stories about hi torque starters on the HAMB. I've got a hi torque on my SBC and it's the best thing I ever did. BUT, I did it because I had to. You don't have to. Either get yours rebuilt or get a new one. Hi torque would be my last resort. And I'd clean under your hood, if having a "nice shiny one" is a buying point. Besides, who'll see it or care?
I've seen them with starter drive bushing issues in the nose cone before. Aside from other internal issues that may be heat-related as well as bum starter drives, they're pretty good stock starters. I'd take all my starters to a local small rebuilder, same guy who did my stock car electrics. Bob
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