Projects winter project - "so let's chop a 40 coupe (and fab everything else possible...)

Thanks a ton guys for all the interest and comments.
It's good to know that others dig it.
Sometimes I wonder what the heck I'm doing,
(you know what I mean 1/2 done!)
and then I sit back and look at it and go ooohhh yeaahh!
Most on here will know what I mean so it's fun to post updates,
even if it's a little hack work compared to some stuff on here.
Thanks again and if I left you out it's cause I'm lazy.
Another update coming real quick!

You know that's what the neighbors think!
We live in an area where people are more used to making payments on their cars,
than actually working on them!
Even the biker dude that was across the alley was on the harley loan program.
Not sure who is the crazy one though me or them!

You know Tim there's alot of what NOT to do that I show on there!
Good to know someone real is out there reading it!

Thanks guys!
It is more of a race or wedge chop with the slanted front windshield,
especially obvious as it's almost 4".
I learned a ton from this project that's for sure.
Glad you like it!

For primer it is so much easier.
It's more of a filler primer style layup,
most of it will get sanded off.
It is a 2-part solvent based epoxy so it fully cures.
You know most of this work is done to 70's GD!

 

Looking good! Great progress, an awesome build!

 

Got a little done yesterday.

First was trying to fix this bad sink hole.
Not perfect but it came out a bit better.
The tough part was the hammering position,
and also the decklid hinge brace is right underneath the seam.

Next was filling in those open corner spots on the doors.
This was kinda hacked in with a piece thicker than sheetmetal.
Everyone that sees it points to that spot,
and asks if I am going to fix the door!
It's still roughed in but looks good from where your sitting!
]
Had to dig out this picture for the historical impact!
You can measure the progress with the kids hair.
At that time there were no hinges, tons of sheetmetal gaps, no firewall,
no floor, banjo not the 9" rearend, no dash...shaking my head right now!
Long term project that's for sure.

Next thing was to flip the car around nose first,
enlisting the help of the original tres huevos team. (3 eggs)

After sliding it around on the jack,
of course we hit the only telephone pole around.

The kids were more bummed than I was,
or maybe they were scared I'd blow my top!
No problem after a couple minutes with a hammer.

Perfect time to pull out the chemicals.
Had saved this beer since christmas time.
Yeah it's a glorified budweiser product but it's tasty!

Some sanding, wire wheeling and some rust converter,
enough to slap on some of that epoxy.

Not trying to hide the fact that this is rusty body.
I don't have the funds or interest to bead blast or dip it,
so this is getting the commercial boat treatment of OSPHO.
It's great stuff for this type application.

The idea is to blend in the painted parts with the rusty parts.
Yes in other words a patina.
Yeah I said it!
I will be taking paypal or cash deposits for proper paint prep in the future!
Maybe 1/2 done can come out here from OHIO!

Anyway now it's ready for some work on the front half...

TP

 

Propper paint and prep by me? Ha! Mines still bare metal, rusting in my detatched garage while I get the Camaro ready to run at The Ohio Mile. I may just mail mine out to you!

 

Is it a Buick 37 on the left ?
I love the vintage chair

 

I paint and did the body work and josh and his dad lettered it .

 

Hey Nali -
I've got a small addiction to these things!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=742104

For some reason I thought it would be a good idea to tear up a runner,
so this one is about 90% done after a year so far.
Actually,
the rusty body was supposed to only be the experimental test chop for the green one.
Then it snowballed into a real car!

There's a short version of this chair near the workbench too.
I'm a magnet for old junk.

TP

 

Looking really good,... nice stance and profile !

 

I just love this thing. One of my favorite build threads!

 

Great job, but then again, how can you ever lose with that help!

 

Cool you guys are likin it!
Thanks for letting me know!

Thought I was gonna get a bunch of time in on sunday.

Ended up getting a late and slow start.
Wasn't prepared to tackle something big like the hood,
so figured a warm up with the last little eye level hole would be a good start.

As usual this took alot longer than I care to admit!

With all the tools out I should have fixed up some of the fender corners.
Oh well.
I had been procrastinating on this hole for a long time,
and besides the door corners,
was the one thing that friends would point out,
kinda like a pimple on a hot chick.
One of the reasons that it had remained for so long.
[/URL]
A late night breeze instigated a bondo session,
or an evercoat session,
just to smooth out some of my hackwork.
Definitely not show quality,
but now the glaring spots that had been bugging me were slowly disappearing.

All ready for a late primer coat and man it was actually looking presentable.
Now most of the outer sheetmetal was in the same overall condition,
little bumps and bruises here and there but nothing too bad.

I had a little time to think about the hood,
so popped on the mini hoodlet.
Then realized the hood project will have to wait.
Looking at this picture I've got to scrounge up a 2-carb intake!
Well thanks for bearing with me these past couple days.
These may be the last of the same outside shots,
as I start digging into the little stuff inside now.
TP

 

cool build, what are you using for primer?

 

Primer is this 2-part solvent based epoxy.
Used for marine, industrial and military applications.
It's awesome stuff.
I've been testing it over the years on salty metal way worse than this,
and although it's not the correct way to do it,
the protection and adhesion is the best I can afford right now!
It's called AMERCOAT 235 by PPG.
When mixed right it is sandable the next day,
and pliable enough to hammer on for about 3 days.
Even that spot that I dented with the telephone pole,
held up surprisingly well even though it was inverted.

TP

 

I am curious about mixing it "right". Is that different than the supplied instructions? If so, how is it mixed for best results? Thanks and man this is an awesome build.


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I've got a habit rolling this stuff right before dark.
There is a simple 2-1 ratio,
but I usually fudge it a bit on the hotter side if its going to be cold.
Another key thing is to mix it and let it sit for a little bit like 5 minutes,
so the chemicals start to kick in the bucket.
I've had a dusk batch have a slow (4day) cure cause I rushed it.
Epoxy should always cure over time since it is catalyzed.
Also sometimes I'll use an epoxy reducer to thin it out,
not acetone cause it will get a frosty finish.
If it's the first coat over body filler,
I'll definitely thin it out.
I'll do a roll coat and then go back over it a second or third time with the same batch,
or an unthinned portion of the same batch.
The idea is that it will soak into the filler patches and integrate into the pours,
obvious when it gets that dry look.
The paint alone is really thick.
it'll get real sticky and stipply if you do a second coat.
This stuff acts like filler primer though and is great for blending.
Lotsa words for something really simple!
TP

 

How'd I miss this? 40 Ford, caddy flathead.. mucho cool points.

 

That front side shot is bitchin looks like it flying down the road just sitting there zibo

 

Wow thanks zibo. It just rolls on. Man I have a lot to learn I thought spray was the only option for cars.


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What a masterpiece dude keep the pics coming this is hotrodN if there is such the thing of this caliber. Wow!!! let the for winds blow you away.

 

I'm waiting to see that pie-cut hood in place!

 

Thanks guys here's a pre-father's day update.
Was tempted to go to LARS but too poor to get teased by swap meet gold!
Figured getting some garage time was more my speed.

Okay here goes 50!
Not going to be as much as yours though.
********************************

Finally started on the hood last night.
Opened a big old can of worms.
The perfect father's day present.

Earlier in the week I had removed that overlap stainless trim,
which was propping the hood higher than needed.
Mainly because the fenders and grille are almost 2 inches too far forward!

Without the nose ornament piece,
the hood had a much rounder line.
In person the hood is very large looking,
and I was still intent on a pie cut.

After some careful measurements,
the first cut split the hood in two pieces.

Now it will be easier to get the bottom section to fit right.
It's going to be a bunch of work.

After looking at the pictures last night,
the conclusion is to not section it nearly as much as I thought.
Glad the pie wasn't cut out!
What I think happened is sliding the hood forward that 1+3/4",
also slid the nose down the angled grille top.
So in addition to losing the 1/2" of the trim,
the hood is down almost 1 inch just in a normal position.
Now it is more a matter of getting it lined up with the body reveals,
and then the fender gap.
Maybe 1/2" will be pie-cut but we'll see in the next couple hours!

Anyway hopefully some metal time over the weekend will help solve things.

TP

 

Don Dillard ran into a similar "undershot jaw" problem on my car, long after the hood had been sectioned and other surgery had been done to the fenders, frame, etcetera. He chose to lengthen the nose by about 1 1/2" to get the hood back in line with the grille. Maybe Don would like to post a little coverage of that surgery??

 

I saw the end result but never any of the dirty tricks involved!
Most likely any added sheetmetal will be at the cowl line.
This will be easier trimming a 1/2" or so and then reassembling it.

That would be great!
What do you think about 3-bolt 94 style,
vs the 4-bolt GM style carb?
I'm on the fence to do aluminum or steel.
I've always thought your stock mod was cool.
You've came along way Buddy!

TP

 

Really loving how you improvise . . . without a net! Too cool.

Hey, Travis, they ain't little for long, are they?



^^^^ Future Rodders of America ^^^^

 

Travis, I think the 3 bolt will give a little edge on the cool factor, but the 4 bolt give you more air. More air= more HP on these engine, and still look pretty cool. Here is a Burrell 2x2 I had with the 4 bolt carbs, and I think they look cool!

Aluminum looks cool, and is lighter, but steel is easier for me to work with. Here's a couple of pics of the tri-power with Cermachrome on it, for an idea. It's not perfect, but it's functional!

I really need to see this thing run-you've got crazy mad skills!

 

Looking good, Bro!!! It's really coming along! Nothing like bouncing between two of these to keep you busy!!!

 

havent been on the HAMB in a while... come back to see this build moving along nicely. Looking real good my friend. Looking forward to seeing it progress...

and now you have a whole other project! Double Time! Double Trouble!

 

Whew. I was glad to read that! My first thought was, "Whoa, that's WAY too much out of the hood!" Sometimes, less is more.

Great progress, and really fun watching it come together!

Brian

 

Ok guys here's a quick update.
Don't have much time on here so may be in 2 pieces...


One of the most important things was cleaning out the inside.
It had become a stash spot mainly for parts for the car.
Finally the seat could be installed.
It was a PITA to locate the frame holes and drill the floor holes.


I was trying to do a mechanical push,
which as you'll see didn't last long.
The brake parts from the green 40 were going onto this rusty 40.

The spindles needed some modifying to accept the f100 brakes.
This was a bummer,
I should have replaced them with later square spindles.

Was easier to grind for now.

A chance internet find of (hopefully) the right window rubber totally changed my plan.

A dang I got to go for a minute...

TP