Sbc setting valve lash on fresh motor

So the engineers at GM don't know S#!T and never have.

There's a book , its a 1955 shop manual,
that has been MISS-leading thousands upon thousands of ENGINE builders for 59 years.

If you are lucky enough to find an old book, go to the section 6-54 under ENGINE asssembly, about 1/3 the way...
and read

I searched the inter net and (well i must not be good at that) could not find the GM 59 year OLD METHOD to SHOW you all,*ON U-TUBE*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSNr9jCd6EE

If and when this GM METHOD gets SHOWN to you you will UNDERSTAND.

I have witnessed 100dreds of engine builder / mechanics
hold there head to the side like a dog ... and then a light bulb goes OFF
and they GET it....
This METHOD is the fastest and no oil spraying .(period)

Like the Shark Tank---I'm out

 

HAHA, I did the same thing and when I tunred the motor over there was no compression..... I uses this method with the IOEC method

 

Am I the only one who is having a hard time understanding what this guy is saying ?

 

http://www.oldirononline.com/
Henry√ if you can't find it here you probably won't find it on line

 

I do the up and down method.if it's new lifters, I setc it once, break in the cam.and check them again.if I'm feeling productive!

 

I always prime the pump. I made a priming shaft from a discarded (jap) socket with a piece of 1/8 rod bisecting it , 13 mm socket I think , this way it stays on the pump, and you can use an extension to drive it, Make sure to tape the socket on so it doesn;t fall off ,
Choose one of the above methods , then after all is said and done , cut the top out of an old valve cover , install it,and , while it;s running , warmed up, back off lash nuts , one at a time , til that rocker starts to tick, tighten til tick quiets, then 1/2 turn past , go through all , takes no time at all,

 

I've been using this method for years, you'renot alone. I always use the factory methods. If you want a little more complex, go with the factory method of setting lash on a Z/28 302, which I did, and no problems whatsoever have arisen because of it. I once posted verbatim from the shop manual how to set the valve lash on a stude champion six, and got the same response, so I tend to stay away from these threads anymore.

 

I don't know either He might have better luck on YouTube instead of U-Tube.
Seems like some posters could benefit from a Sarcasam Smilie.

Anyway, I vote for each cyl. @ TDC compression and shuck the pushrod up and down to feel for zero lash -Spinning doen't give enough "feel"- then 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

 

I don't know at all as well.

T

 

Yep, this is the way I was shown to do a chevy years ago, never had the pleasure of working on a stude.

 

This is how I adjust my boat engines. Add to that the advice of spinning the pushrod until you feel pressure against it and then tighten 1/2 turn. This is advice from my machine shop who, btw, builds blown alcohol K-boat engines. My engines spin at a minimum of 3500 inconstantly.

Also, if you're running hydraulic/solid flat tappets and not rollers, when you break the engine in, if you have double of triple springs, leave only the outer spring on it during break in. Use Joe Gibbs (or comparable) break in oil. The new oils leave out the zinc that helps the break in of flat tappet cams. When you fire the engine, you need to maintain the RPM's at 1500-2000 for 20 minute to properly break in a new flat tappet cam.

 

Hot damn, 40+ posts to get the valves set on a sbc....this innerweb deal is a wunnerful thing I tell ya!

 

Comp Cams is talking about performance aftermarket cams and lifters.
It is not necessary to pre load them as much as a stock lifter.
On Stock Eliminator/ Hydraulic lifter race only engines, I spin the push rod and feel for zero and then go 1 flat of the nut tighter (1/6th of a turn) ...(Long before I pre lube it for firing)
That way ,if I hear anything, I know I should take a look.

None of this pertains to stock or mild rebuilt street stuff.
Just follow a manual for the 1 3 4 8 sequence and go half to 3/4 turn down.
Then you can bolt on your A/C, power steering ,PCV and all that other stuff on top..and not have to go back and do that clickety clack , oil slingin' thing like back in the fifties.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=756596

info is in this book ...not mine

 

I have used the valve overlap method for 20 + years with No problems what so ever. If you take the firing order and split it in half i.e, 18436572 ( small block chevy RH rotation engine) and put the first half over the second half on paper.
1843
5672
Then slowly rotate the engine clockwise from the front (viewed from harmonic balancer) when the exhaust rocker on any given cylinder closes and the same cylinder intake valve begins to open (this is overlap) I.e, if #1 is on overlap, adjust both valves on #5 and so forth. This allows all valves to be adjusted in two crankshaft revolutions. You adjust the valves on the adjacent cylinder when looking at the firing order written down split in half. Turn adjuster nut slowly while rotating pushrod with two finger tips until very slight drag is felt (zero lash) then I go three more quarter turns (hydraulic lifters only) this sets lifter plunger down roughly .060". set solids to reccomended lash setting. This works on ANY engine. It also ensures the valves being adjusted are on the base circle of the cam.

 

Like I said, you can do it but it is still wrong!
Each valve needs to be set on the exact heel of the cam. This point is 180 degrees from the point of maximum lift.
How you arrive at this point there are many ways to achieve.
Camshafts on most modern engines are arranged such that setting both valves at
one position of the crank on the same cylinder is physically impossible.
The heels of the 2 valves are close but not close enough for proper setting at one position of the crank.

 

might be 50

they WANT it complicated and oil spray-ed all over... just let em
do it the HARD way

 

Heck I used to do this years ago.... got a little rusty and thought I would come looking for advice... and am now more confused than i was before... back to my way of doing it.

 

#50! Hahaha.

 

was deleted

Nope you're 49, I'm # 50 hahah hahah