1936 Roadster hand formed & other projects

Lookin good man

 

We will be putting it to use this week.

 

Is residual magnetism an issue with a machine like that? Or does it have a way to demagnetize?
It looks like it will be real handy for what you guys do around there. It appears that it is capable of bends that a traditional bender can't do.
Boys can never have too many toys!

~Alden

 

I have a confesson to make I am a tool junkie & if I can improve the quality & speed we do projects in then to me it justifys the cost. I will be 65 in a couple of months & dont plan on slowing down on tool buying. As far as the magnatism I have no idea if it will stick with the part or because it is such a short time amount it won't do a thing. I will let you know if tools start flying across the shop & sticking to the new panels.

 

I too love tools! A lot of people do no understand that. But it makes possible things which you could not otherwise do, or speeds up processes.
I just wondered if grinder dust would stick to the parts made on that brake. After I finished my shop I noticed these round spots on the walls and at first thought they were spiderwebs. It turns out that each sheetrock screw gathers metallic dust from my belt grinders. Makes it easy to locate studs for hanging things! I don't know if that is caused by the magnetic bits used to intall the screws or if they already had a bit of magnetism. That is the cause of my question.
Do you give shop tours and demonstrations?

~Alden

 

My shop is always open to fellow members, my work days are Tuesday thru Saturday unless I am doing a show. Just call ahead to make sure I am in & not off running an errand, & if you by tools or equipment from me I give you my knowledge on how things work, shop # 425 433 0294.

 

Max did a little patch on the 30 Roadster & the piece was Made with the Baileigh Magnetic bender.









Nothing coplicated but pieces need to be made & installed.

Now it is a short play time.










We were not trying to make any thing for a project, just took 5 minutes to try some ideas. This was 18 gage steel which is what we use the most of.

 

I finished stripping the front of the Hillman down & made a front support welded to the frame table. then i can cut out all the old inner structure getting ready for making the new sub frame assembley to bolt the Miata front suspension in.
















This is going to be fun.

 

Will be waiting for all the updates....Jim

 

A little front end surgery for the Hillman
The tool of choice.

Before & now the cutting begins.

No turning back now.





I will do a little more trimming then on to the next part.

 

Max did some repairs on the left door.


























More later.

 

Well you have a hole now to fit the front suspension(ha ha), can't wait to see more. Than is some great repair work to the bottom of the door, nice job...Jim

 

Jim its just a little hole to fill with a larger then stock motor, more cutting today.

 

I pretty well finished trimming the old wheel wells out for now.



Then I just rough blocked up the front suspension to approx ride height approx to start 4 inches from the bottom of the rocker front to the ground.


Then I put on a front tire to see how it would sit.



Ride height looks pretty close for starters & the wheel lip will need some reworking. A little more triming then on to the rear set up.

 

Moving right along...Jim

 

I have been approached by a lady who is the new owner of a fiberglass kit car & she would like the plastic trim with the chrome comming off replaced with new custom made stainless and a few other up grade to make it a nice driver for her. It has air bag suspension already. The trim is not straight & varies in width so I am looking for ideas on how to make it. I realize the car is not real H.A.M.B. friendly but making custom stainless trim would sure a H.A.M.B. proscess for some. This is the project.






















So any thoughts or ideas I am looking at some 24 gauge 304 stainless real close thickness to what was used on cars fron the 50's & 60's. The longest piece is 52 inches.

 

My vote would be to make it out of brass or aluminum and get it chrome plated. That may be too costly but it would look better.

 

Hi Danny.Outstanding thread.ALWAYS love to see excellent craftmanship.Metalwork has always fasinated me ever since I used to help out in a friends body shop about 50 years ago.Love your personal build on the Hillman.Now THATS a sleeper.Hehehehe.Best to you on your health problems.BTDT.Its good to see young ladies getting into the custom/restoration field.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Those hinges look like they are 28 A Ford hinges.
Michael

 

The owner supplied the hinges for the 30 roadster then Max had to rework them & the door for every thing to open & close smothly

 

Max built a rear seperator for the roadster.




Then he moved on the repairing the Henry 32 grill shell.








We are coming close to the end of this project as the owner is about out of $$ but there is a little more to be done before it leaves.

 

Nice repair on the grill shell....Jim

 

Well guys we are healing up well at my house after several surgerys so its time to get back out in the shop & play with some metal. I do not have any help any more so every thing is 100 percent by me. First up is I have the 36 Chev that was on hold I need to make a pair of new front fenders from flat stock the originals were so reglious (holey well ventalated mud sculptures) & we coud not find a decent set to rebuild so the decision was to make new ones from scrach. The other project is a pair of 41 packards 1 coupe to be made into a convertible but done as a correct Packard convertible plus it needs a ton of patch work redone. The the other is a convertible that needs a major part of the lower body redone due to rust mites. So lets see if I can get back into the swing of making sheet metal parts.

 

Look forward to you getting back in the shop and banging out some metal. Glad everyone is OK and feeling better...Jim

 

Good to hear your feeling better.

 

Danny,

Glad your back at it. Your workmanship is an inspiration. One of these days I'll get back onto my 36 and install those trunk gutters you made for me. Right now I'm finishing up my 67 GTO, which has been in the works for 25 years.

Regards,
Joe

 

Thanks guys pictures to come.

 

amazing craftsmanship and skill. Wish I had the talent you've forgotten and I'd be good to go. Much respect

 

To start things of the 36 Chev front fenders are very thin from previous repairs & very holey and we could not find real decent repaiable replacements so new ones will be made. After stripping & some banging around they actualy look semi repairable but paper thin all over.




Just a small section looking from the inside out.

I made some tape pattern templates for the front half to start.


I will be using the correct thickness 19gage AkDQ steel just like Chev did.

 

I also will be rebuilding & converting a 41 Packard 110 coupe into a convertible Packard correct type rebody build. First I will start with the doors the passenger side will need a skin from the belt line down due to badly repaired rust out or damage & un repaired damage. This is to be a first quality redo so no cutting corners or over abundance of contour shapping material. I also have a 41 Packard convertible here for restoration after the coupe conversion and to use for patterns.



I did some light 80 grit sanding to bring out some of the highs & lows plus show the un repaired damage.


This is the right convertible door I made a grid on so I can replicate the correct contour.

I started making contour gages to make sure the new skin & any repairs to the drivers door have the correct contours.

Its hard some times holding the camera & a part when you are working alone.

I used the Baileigh foot shrinker stretcher to shape the gages & will need to make several more as the shape changes from top to bottom suttley.

Thats it for the packard for today more to come.