"By three methods we MAY learn wisdom" The May 2013 Banger Meet

Another timing question, any suggestions on what static timing I should be using on a Miller headed B block with a Don Zigg Vertex Mag. At the moment I'm getting a bit of detonation on shutdown. Running a brierley 280 cam, Ross pistons and crower rods - I think it's circa 9.5-1 CR
Believe I'm running an A front cover. I swapped to highest grade of gas to try and help.

Any guidance welcomed - newish to bangers



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bump for englishrodder and for the good of the cause.

 

Well, I put a deposit down on a '25 T tourer body here in NZ yesterday and that is my official start to my next project which will be powered by a Model A engine. Its been about 7 years since I had my pickup with a Model A and S10 five-speed. Inspiration for the tub comes from particularly the Red Hynes tub and also Morty's later 26/27. I have chassis rails, front end parts, ribbed and narrow dirt track Firestones and a few other items already lined up. I will most likely run 16" wires and I need to get a rearend and a front axle to make a decent start. Engine will most likely just be a twin carb engine with the Winfield head I have here and then I can hop things up from there. Looking forward to it.

 

Sounds like a fun project! I started on a 27 tub but plans changed when I found a smoking deal on a roadster body & pickup bed. Mine's also going on an A chassis with a Winfield yellow head & SR-B carburetor.

 

Sounds cool mate. Are you going to post pics on here of it?

 

Run on after shutdown of the ignition is more akin to pre-ignition than it is to detonation. It is caused by a hot spot in the chamber igniting the mixture, and can be a source of detonation under power--BAD

Typically it is caused by a thin edge on an exhaust valve, sharp corner on the combustion chamber (unlikely with the Miller chamber design) or--too hot a spark plug. Change plugs to one heat range cooler, and see if it still happens.

Sometimes it was just a characteristic of the engine design. B-16 Volvo and Continental 65 HP aircraft were prone to this. To prevent (IF everything else checks out OK) whack the throttle wide open just after the ignition is killed.

Herb

Posted from two paper cups connected with a string.

 

"May" I gain some wisdom as to why this pulley split?
Everything was going well until I spied this little problem.
Any ideas?


Thanks


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Too much HP!!!!!


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Looks like you didn't have the pulleys aligned, causing extra pressure on the forward flange of the (probably already flawed) fan pulley. Check all three pulleys with a straight edge. mis-alignment usually shows up as short belt life.

Herb

 

It could be too much HP but the bolts that hold the fan on is my guess. It could just be just old and too much cyclic loading. Fatigue from a fan being out of balance or a worn out fan belt with a couple of pieces missing.

 

Thanks guys, alignment looks good.
I was thinking that with a new belt and extra tension on the alternator and a fatigued pulley.......
I'll put a new Henry one on.


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mallory yl 11a I bought this for my 30 model a 4 cylinder. i want to install it to advance things along. it has a dimple on the shank that sits in the head. my question is id that dimple for timing it? or better yet does anyone have a good install and timing procedure for this distributor? thank you

 

Well folks, it's starting to look like my days as a banger guy are about to come to an end. I decideed to pull the oil pan and check things out, one thing led to another and here is where I ended up. I was hoping to make a few events this summer but this kinda ended it. Now to contemplate my next move.


Click on the thumbnails....



Regards,
-Joemac

 

You need to put timing marks on the front of the engine like a newer car. Or time it by hear like I did.
If its flat give it a bit more
If it pings take some away.

When I was happy with my setting I made a mark on the head. And now when I pull it out I can just line up the marks and go. Some day I will make a clap that pins in the stock hole in the head.


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After sleeping on it I'm thinking there may just be some hope of a resurrection here. Just maybe I'll have a shot at welding it..... I'll take it apart and see what the rest of it looks like.

Regards,
-Joemac

 

looks kind of bad
needs to come out for sure
tk

 

What is the idle speed? Ill tuned carburetors or vacuum leak can cause this especially if idle speed has been increased to compensate for or to smooth out stumbling.

 

I have a pic of the B engine currently in my car. It was taken down the oil fill hole. The camera angle is towards the front of the engine. The engine is dated 01.13.37. Is that a counterbalanced crank I am seeing?

 

Spin the engine.
From your pic. It Looks to round to me.
I took some pics but this new App will not let me upload the pics.



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Sorry Stan, that doesn't look like a c'balanced crank to me.

I have a diamond block B that has a non counterbalanced crank in it too.

-

 

here are the pics

 

Double post, sorry!

 

Joemac, my AA block was just as bad, when I started out on the 11th of April. Now it starts with 1/4 rounds hand crank! See http://dannerrsblog.blogspot.dk/2013/05/thursday-night-getting-closer.html for the video.
If the valve can close and hold pressure, all I see is dirt and grime.


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I think pic two shows a crack from the exhaust seat at about the 5:30 mark and the rust suggests it's into the jacket..

 

I been sleeping

 

Can someone please help? I am assembling a 1930 tudor body from a couple of different cars. There are no subrails for measurements. I have new subrails ready to install. What I need to know is the width of the door opening between the cowl post and body post. I want to get it right the first time. Thanks for your assistance.

 

Good morning, where have you been?


.

 

Well folks, thanks for any encouragement.

Yes it is cracked but good... However....

I just got back from the welding supply with a small pack of special electrodes for welding up just such a thing. Nearly a hundred bucks for a few rods!!!

If people and life in general leave me some time this weekend I'll prep the area and have a go at welding it. Its worth a try and if I can get it to hold water for the summer maybe I'll put a sleeve in that cylinder next winter. Maybe even new rings and valves.....

Only way to learn is to have a go.

Regards,
-Joemac

 

Thanks guys for your replies on the B crank.

Another question - I need to have my steering box rebuilt. Should I go for an F100 box or just have my 31 box rebuilt.

If the 31 box rebuilt, who you would you suggest? Anyone in NJ?

If F100 same questions.

Should I go for the shortened pitman arm? Will it interfere with the 32 front axle, brakes, kingpins, brake actuators I am going to put in?


BTW, the "while I'm at it" virus is in full swing! (see pic)