I thought the carb flooding was the problem...maybe not.i did the 6-12 volt conv' on my 251''L''and I was told to keep the 6v condenser for as long as it would last because they were better than any new 12v unit(done plenty of miles since). never had my timing go out overnight but maybe you sheared your dist' drive pin on start up?, broke the rotor button locator tab? i'll check in later to see how you get on
thanks brother, her lungs were inflamed and was having difficulty breathing she's stubborn like me , a bit more she might not have made it..they kept her to keep an eye on her heart and lungs for damage from low oxygen levels...she looked 99% better by the time i left the hospital....
ok in between the hospital and the vet for the dog.... tried to start it again today for a bit made an attempt at first then nothing upon further attempts .. notice tho coming out the oil fill tube is like a smoke? and the exhaust as well.
Take a very close look at the wire on the distributor breaker plate under the distributor cap. These things can get brittle over the years and loose insulation allowing them to short against the plate.
never thought of the wire....but yeah im thinking this is in the dist. as well makes an attempt but wont stay running past few seconds could be carb too i've had this thing apart enough to do it blind folded
I've been having the same problem/frustration with my '42 Fargo p/u. Swear to God that thing might become an import one of these days! So I follow with interest. I did change that little wire but no luck. I haven't touched it in months but I'll get back to it soon. By the way, a good way to remember the firing order is... "15 is too young, 36 too old, and 24 is just right!"
haha i like that! man i tell ya the most frustrating part is it was running so smooth and then this like a jekyll and hyde manuvere
i tell ya i have an 85 dodge short bed i was thinking of setting this on...and it makes me lean more and more towards doing it...was really hoping to cruise it for the summer as is
Man, that sounds like a bitch. As far as iginiton goes, where's your dwell at? what are the points gapped at? I had a slant six valiant that would die at the slightest touch of the throttle. I had to feather the gas everywhere. Changed the points and that fixed it. The gap checked out ok, so I was taking the carb apart and obsessivley checking the float, cleaning, etc. Went through a few kits... it sounds like you've gone through all that though...
pretty much i have, im concerned maybe not enough spark to the points? or i just throw a hammer at it and start a body swap later in the summer
I had something like that on my 230. The little wire in the dissy had almost no insulation left on it. Also, a 6v condenser should be perfectly fine, especially if it's an original. The ballast resistor is dropping your voltage to around 8v or thereabouts, so no problem. I'd be inclined to mark the spot the dissy is in, then pull it and take it apart. Check the little wire, check the points are clean and opening correctly, check the rotor and cap for wear and tracking.
I've had two trucks and my 54 Chevy car do that same thing. It turned out out be the ignition switch in all of them. Two had the original switch, the other was one of those Chinese switches you buy at oreilly auto parts. The engine would crank and start, and then the engine vibrations would cause the wires to either not get contact. One engine wouldn't stay running, and the other two would just run like crap. Also, I thought only the one ton and up trucks used a 230 engine in 1946. You probably have a 217 and I bet that explains the carburetor difference. Maybe your getting the wrong parts and settings?
more stuff i can look for when weather permits...parts are looking the same as what i taken off so far....another problem is its not like they are on the shelf at the local auto parts....lol most need to be ordered in so the waiting game im getting better at
yep...I was just staring at my 251'L',wondering what your problem could be and I thought it might be worth running a wire from the + battery terminal to the + on the coil to eliminate a faulty ballast resistor or ignition curcit(?)
217? not a 218? either or not much of a difference for tune up parts if anything the 230 pieces should be heavy duty no the carb parts were ordered for the carb on it so no difference there but i have come across others with the stromberg on them as well will pull the dizzy out tomorrow and inspect it i think thats the culprite at least i hope anywho
Ok OK 217.8 or 230.2 is what the books list them as. I've been assuming this whole time you were talking about a truck, but is this a car? I anxious to see what the actual cause of the engine trouble is. It might have been printed in clear earlier in the post, but I didn't see it..
lol its ok...it is a 46 dodge 1/2 ton truck 2wd...i havent pulled the dist. out yet to check it..its stumping me as well as a lot of people, tomorrow i will pull it out and see whats going on with it. like i said so far we have; plenty of fuel getting to it nice spark on the plugs runs for a few secs then dies hit the throttle and nothing still dies while its running it is not smooth at all - miss or dead cylinder - blocked exhaust?
well got it running!!!!... now do you want a made up fix or the real one that makes me look like an A$$? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=379767745461678&set=o.346975035378190&type=2&theater
Cmon, man, out with it!! We've all been guilty of obvious mistakes! I have the same truck, so I want to know the real solution Chris
lol ok here it is long version hahaha: when i bought this truck it was not running but the motor wasn't seized i get it home and upon further inspection the guy has the 6volt battery in wrong neg.ground? OK simple enough but i start to wondering what else could be wrong if he did that? so i tinker with it and tinker with it nothing, finally get a carb kit for it rebuild the carb and clean gas tank out so now we are getting fuel good to go. it starts up runs i figure ok lets change this to 12v. so i change it all over mind you hooking wires up the same way i took them off one at a time....cool purrs like a kitten for two days figure OK now I'll run a fuel return since no regulator on the electric pump...done! nope got to fire it up nothing not getting fuel ok 29 more times of taking the carb apart finally get fuel going in it... so i start looking at the wiring diagram in the manual and low and behold *the culprit was the wiring on the coil was wrong reversed from ign. switch to dist. * so yeah i feel somewhat of an ass but that's the way it was wired before strange
any of you electrical guru's explain why this ran ggod for 2 days with the coil wired wrong? seems to me it should not have?
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