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65 Nova Gasser Nestalgia Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Motomike43, May 9, 2013.

  1. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    I am Currently Building a 65 Nova Nestalgia Gasser. All Old School. Running a straight Axle in front with a Dana on ladder bars in the back and Hilborn Injection on top.

    Is this H.A.M.B. Friendly?

    I would love to share the build with you guys. Before I go picture crazy I figured I would clear it with the crowed.

    I know im pushing it as far as being a 65. But its all Old School and I know some of you like the old gassers. No electronics on this baby.

    Let me know, otherwise I will end this now.
     
  2. yep it is and now start posting :)
     
  3. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,720

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    The rules here allow your '65 Nova, because it's the same body style as the cutoff date Nova. Let's see what you're building!
     
  4. GassersGarage
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 4,727

    GassersGarage
    Member

    Sure, we love Nostalgic Gassers.
     

  5. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,873

    henry29
    Member

    Yes, please.
     
  6. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    Sweet. When I get home tonight ill start uploading some cool stuff. Cant wait to hear the good the bad and the ugly. There is no such thing as negative feedback...
     
  7. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    Well, here is a quick teaser. A few Pictures of the day we started the project. Pulled it out of the original owners back yard where it sat for 20 years without moving an Inch. We have been working on this so long the original pictures are taken at my OLD shop. I also have a few more recent pics that were taken several months ago when the chassis first became a full roller.
    This post is just a quick teaser. I will begin posting many pics and write ups of the entire build from start to end. I have great pictures of every step.

    This entire Gasser is 100% Custom built. Its a 65 nova being build for the Nastalgia circuit. It will be running a big block Chevy on Hilborn Injection with a magneto. (the motor in the pic is just a mock up engine). Straight axle in Front. Dana 60 in back with ladder bars. No electronics. Running on Alcohol. only 10" tires. No Tubs. Factory rear frame. Pulled motor back 1' , moved front axle forward 1'. Trying to build it as Nastalgic as possible. The only thing modern is the Cage(for safety: This car will be raced in competition) Everything is Hand made. There are no "Kits" or Catalog order stuff. We are building it just like they did back in the day. If you wanted a Gasser in the 60's you had to engineer it yourself. Everyone had their own ideas of what made a car fast. Some things worked. Some things didn't.
    I hand made every part of this car accept the Straight axle, the leaf springs and the driveshaft. A shop in PA specializes in custom straight axles and he has a friend with a spring shop. I had "the driveshaft shop" build and balance the shaft.
    The entire chassis is chromoly. I cut the rotted floors out of the car and made square tube frame connectors which tie the firewall blocks into the factory rear frame rails. Making this Unibody car a lot stiffer. The whole front end of the chassis is custom built. The whole roll cage is hand made. All tied into the factory rear frame. All the steering is custom right down to the column. All the links braces, mounts, rag joints... are home made. The trans cross member, engine mount, solid aluminum engine plate... all homemade. The rear is a Dana (homemade) on ladder bars all homemade... Every tab, mount, bracket, tube, bar, sheet metal, chassis, frame, suspension part is hand made. Right down to the custom mandrel bent stainless steel wheel well Headers.... All handmade.
    I would love to share the entire build with you guys. It will take awhile. Its 4 years and going. The car is 90% done. All thats left is to finish the 1 piece tilt front end. I am fabricating and machining a tilt mechanism and a tubular kite frame to hold everything together. Then its paint and body time. This car should be going down the track in 2014.

    ****** If anyone ever has any questions about this Car, Fabrication, Welding.... Please do not hesitate to ask or message me. I am always willing to help anyone who wants to learn ******

    Just a few pics to get you guys excited about the project

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  8. II FUNNY
    Joined: Jul 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,838

    II FUNNY
    Member

    Looking good. I'll subscribe.
    I sold my 65 two door sedan last fall. I didn't realize it had a goofy one year only roof until I got mine home. I built an altered wheelbase car out of mine.

    "MELTDOWN DRAGS"
    July 20, 21 2013 at Byron Dragway Byron Ill.
    www.meltdowndrags.com
     
  9. Sgt._Grumpy
    Joined: Feb 17, 2009
    Posts: 126

    Sgt._Grumpy
    Member

    Nothing more fun than a big block 65 Nova gasser! Here's mine...

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    CampisiC likes this.
  10. PandorasBox99
    Joined: Dec 1, 2012
    Posts: 186

    PandorasBox99
    Member

    Car looks great man! I have one concern about your front shackels angle.After my front suspension settled my shackel angle rapped forword causing spring eye to bounce off frame rails.I cut them loose and had to move after the pretty paint was sprayed that was a bummer!
     
  11. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    Thanks for the Tip. Its kinda hard to tell in the picture but the front frame is notched to allow extra travel. Ill post a close up pic and let me know what you think. Weather or not I have enough swing... thanks
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  12. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    I like where you are going with this. Keep up the nice work.....
     
  13. 32coupedeville
    Joined: Dec 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,253

    32coupedeville
    Member
    from cincy

    man looking good. I like post cars
     
  14. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    FOR PandorasBox99:

    Here is a pic of the way I designed the front shackles. I wanted to keep the pivot point directly under the roll cage bar for extra strength. I saw the potential for limited swing when I mocked it up. I notched the front frame to tapper into the front cross bar (2x2) allowing the springs to swing up past the front of the frame rail an extra inch. The spings are very stiff and don't move much. (I may remove a leaf).

    Let me know what you think. I don't want the car to bottom the shackle out when coming down from a wheelie :)

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  15. II FUNNY
    Joined: Jul 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,838

    II FUNNY
    Member

    If they are speedway springs your going to want to remove two springs. The way they come makes it ride like its a rigid chassis. I had an iron headed big block in mine and had to remove two springs.

    "MELTDOWN DRAGS"
    July 20, 21 2013 at Byron Dragway Byron Ill.
    www.meltdowndrags.com
     
  16. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    OK. Lets start from the beginning.

    The first thing I did was remove what was remaining of the original Floor. I carefully left the original Frame in the car. I did not want to remove any of the frame until I decided how I was going to build the new frame connectors.

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    Once the floors were gone I came up with a good design for the new frame and cut the factory frame out. Leaving just the original Pockets in the firewall:

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    I then fabricated a 2x2 rear cross bar that goes Side-side. I incorporated a drive shaft loop into the bar. I Plated the rocker panel with 3/16 plate. This gives me more weld surface to distribute the load. I then welded my 2x2 cross car to these plates. I pushed it all the way back so its only about 3 inches from the factory rear frame rails. This will make it easy to fabricate rear frame ties later. I also chose this location for the cross bar because I will later use it to locate the roll cage main hoop. The hoop will be welded directly to this new frame:

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    Now its time for the New Frame. I made it out of 2x3 box tube, stood up tall for extra strength. I designed it to slip fit into the firewall pockets as deep as possible. I boxed the new frame in to keep it stiff after cutting half of it out. Then I drilled holes in the side of the factory pockets for extra plug welds. The I welded the entire seam inside and out. You will see I also plated the bottom. This plate over laps the old frame and continues onto the new frame. the plate is 1/8".
    The new frame was then welded to the new rear cross bar. I notched the 2x3 to tapper down into the 2x2 cross bar. This left the bottom of the frame open with a hole. So, when I made a plate to close this hole in I made it long and had it over lap the 2x2 cross bar. This not only closes my frame back in but acts a a gusset plate. Once that was all welded up I cut out corner gussets out of 2x2 box and welded them to the outside corners of the new frame (you will see why later).
    The whole frame is made with mild steel due to 90% of the welding being attached to OLD (will never get 100% clean steel). The rest of the build is all 4130 chromoly.

    All of the welding throughout the entire build is TIG welded.

    Here are Some pics of the Frame:

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  17. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,720

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Nice looking build! Quite a change from the car you began with!
     
  18. henry's57bbwagon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2008
    Posts: 680

    henry's57bbwagon
    Member

    Thanks, I had to subscribe, many good ideas which will apply to my HenryJ. What length of front spring did you use?
     
  19. Model A John
    Joined: Apr 24, 2008
    Posts: 1,771

    Model A John
    Member
    from wichita ks

    Looks like you are quite a fabricator. Keep us posted.
     
    nomomoto likes this.
  20. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member


    Thanks. I started building this car as a Side job at my house several years ago when I was about 26. Time and customer money has made it a long term project. I now own a fabrication / hotrod/ race car shop. The car is now at the new shop as later pictures will start to show. I am now 31 and the nova is almost done. LOL. It should be going down the track next summer.... We shall see HA

    Henry:
    the spring length is 30"
     
  21. ironandsteele
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 5,918

    ironandsteele
    Member

  22. rotten johnny
    Joined: Mar 14, 2009
    Posts: 535

    rotten johnny
    Member
    from Mi

    Let the party begin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    You gonna love the attention youll get
    [​IMG]


    Click on photo
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2013
  23. rotten johnny
    Joined: Mar 14, 2009
    Posts: 535

    rotten johnny
    Member
    from Mi

    Hey Shooter, is that a 37 buick in your avaitor??
     
  24. henry's57bbwagon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2008
    Posts: 680

    henry's57bbwagon
    Member

    Thanks Mike. I wonder if there is a formula? I read some guys are using trailer springs and I have a set here that are 25" which seem short.
     
  25. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    After we fabricated a new frame it was time for the front half of the Roll Cage.

    As I said before the roll cage is the only part of the car that is not 100% Nestalgia. This car will be raced in competition. Saftey is #1. There are several extra bars added to this cage that would not have been used in a Car built in 65.

    The entire cage is hand made. Its all 4130 Chromoly. Its all TIG welded. All Bends are made on a Manual bender. All Cope's are made with a Hole saw notcher.

    First we made the Main hoop. You can't get a tight fit like this from a catalog order kit:

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    The main hoop sits directly onto the Rear cross member. Its also perfectly behind the B pilar. We wanted to try and hide as much cage as possible behind the factory body.

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    Next we added 2x3 bars turned flat between the front half of the new frame and the rocker panel. This ties the frame to the Body really good and also gives us a platform to land the A pilar bars.

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    Once the A pilar bars were tacked into place we put Rocker bars just on the inside of the rockers. They run between the rear cross member and the front cross bar 2x3. We made sure all points of the cage come together as close together as possible. This add's stiffness and strength to all the Points of the cage. You don't want your points all staggered from each other.

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    Next we Tied the car together side to side by adding the Harness bar across the Main hoop and the Dash bar between the A pilar bars.

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    Next we Tied the top of the cage together with a Windsheild bar and Cross bar corner to corner. Then we added Gusset bars in the front corners.

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  26. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    The Last few parts of the Main Cage tie the Main hoop together corner to corner. This helps Rack the car and also adds a lot of strength to the harness bar (which hold the seat belts in the car…. kind of important)

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    Now that all the bars are fabricated and the cope's fit 100% its time to weld as much as possible without welding the cage to the chassis (yet). ( just tacked )

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    Once the I got all the welding I could possibly do with the cage in the car, we cut the 4 posts loose from the frame and lowerd it down onto the floor. This gave me access to finish the welds on the very top of the cage.

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  27. Motomike43
    Joined: Jan 13, 2013
    Posts: 156

    Motomike43
    Member

    Now for the part I always hate…. Spraying Paint. I painted the top of the cage and everywhere thats hard to reach when the cage is back in the car.

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    After the paint cured we lifted the cage back onto the frame and finish welded it down. We are now able to add in the bottom half of the Main Hoop cross. Now we are also able to fabricate and weld in the Door bars.

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    This complets the fabrication of the Main Cage. In the next Post I will show how we tied all of this into the Factory Rear frame and added some major support and Racking to the back half while still utilizing the original frame (like they did back in 65)...
     
  28. Jay.S
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 372

    Jay.S
    Member

    Whah! Nice car and a serious cage!
     
  29. cgaswillys
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,076

    cgaswillys
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Nice project, Looking forward to seeing it at Atco when finished.
     
  30. enloe
    Joined: May 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,534

    enloe
    Member
    from east , tn.

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