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Oil filter help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tom gorney, May 14, 2013.

  1. tom gorney
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 16

    tom gorney
    Member
    from chicago

    Hello everyone, I just got one of those orange external oil filters for my 55 dodge. How do you plumb this to the engine?
     
  2. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Orange external ???

    Which engine?
    Pic of your parts pile?

    .
     
  3. tom gorney
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 16

    tom gorney
    Member
    from chicago

    This is a 1951 218 flat 6.
    I got a external old type filter for it, I was told to route the top of the filter to a oil pressure port and the bottom goes back to the pan.The picture is from Google but it is the same one I have.
     

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  4. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Just be sure you have a restriction in the pressure line fitting at the can.
     

  5. tom gorney
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 16

    tom gorney
    Member
    from chicago

    But does it then just go down to the pan?
    If so then I need some thing welded on the oil pan.
     
  6. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Have you checked in with the guys over at www.p15-d24.com ? The Mopar I6 is their playground.

    .
     
  7. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    By the way, the arogance when your thread is responded to over at the P15D24 forums is normal. Don't take it personal...
     
  8. freezerburn
    Joined: Nov 8, 2012
    Posts: 1,123

    freezerburn
    Member

    Hey, mine is made so that it pushes flow up from the bottom and out the top and back to the engine. However mine is a sock type and predates my car by 20-30 years and it's a '48! Anyway look and make sure that the ends of the filter are identical on top and on the bottom... and match that to what makes the most sense to you. The smallest difference when mated into the housing will be very important to flow! I would go by that over any standard answer that you may receive (including my own)- freezerburn
     
  9. C-1-PW
    Joined: Jun 11, 2006
    Posts: 357

    C-1-PW
    Member

    This should help.
    Be sure to plumb the filter correctly. Some filter "IN" at the top and "OUT" at the bottom, while others are just the opposite. The oil that leaves the filter housing must return to the port immediately above the oil pressure relief valve on the engine.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  10. tom gorney
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 16

    tom gorney
    Member
    from chicago

    My in-pipe has a .053 hole in it, is that good?
     
  11. C-1-PW
    Joined: Jun 11, 2006
    Posts: 357

    C-1-PW
    Member

    I vote yes!

    1. .053, will allow for a pretty good squirt of oil at 40--60 lbs.
    2. This is a bypass filter, not a full flow. Therefore, the oil is intended to flow through the canister at a slow rate.
    3. Your actual oil pressure inside the canister will be controlled by the pressure relief valve in the engine block. That valve will open and close in relation to the engine oil pressure. The pressure will vary depending on engine speed, oil pump output, and the condition of the engine.

    By the way, if you do not know the condition of your oil pressure relief valve, this would be a good time to take it apart for cleaning and inspection. It is a simple procedure. After removing the square headed cap, you should find a spring and a piston. The only part you will need to replace is a gasket beneath the head of the cap screw. You can cut your own, or contact me and I will send you one.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  12. C-1-PW
    Joined: Jun 11, 2006
    Posts: 357

    C-1-PW
    Member

    Pressure Relief Valve Diagram
     

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