So I'm in the middle of installing a parallel leaf kit on my 37 ford and was wondering if anybody has really beat the hell out of one of these kits? I'm already swapping out everything to grade8 and was thinking of fully welding the brackets since they just seem stitch welded together. I will be doing some kind of slapper or ladder bar also for wheel hop so as not to kill my Muncie. The frame will get boxed. I did an 8.5 nova rear also. Any track experience with this kit? I'm not building a track car, I just tend to do burnouts and generally drive stuff hard(it's just more fun that way) thanks ahead of time for any responses!
I've never heard of a problem with them, and I've known a whole bunch of guys who use them. I have personally installed several of those kits, and I finish welding them,as well as welding them in instead of bolting. Check into caltrax bars (spelling?) for traction.
I used there rear suspension kit with a posi traction rear axle under a 1940 sedan and ran it hard for more than 15 years,,,never a problem,,Chassis Engineering builds quality products and will take whatever you give them. HRP
I have them on a couple of my cars, one with 500HP and I like to go fast, quick. I never had a problem, but I did weld them to the chassis with a TIG. I put on TractionMasters. They make good parts but I clean up the design a little.
Grade 8 is over kill or they would already be in the kit. There are lots of Chassis engineering inc parts out there with no reported failures. Lots of us drive em hard as hell for fun as well. The 8.5 will not hold up to burnouts with big torque and fat sticky tires. Save your money for brakes and a bigger rear end.
I figured grade8 was overkill-maybe just use grade5 it came with then weld and forget. The 8.5 was finance driven. 12bolts are expensive! Plus the 8.5 in my 450hp nova held up to a lot for a long time. I wasnt planning on big sticky tires either. But you never know if I decide to borrow some and head to track? Good to hear the responses. I feel more confident now. Thanks everybody Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
The 39 I bought a couple weeks ago has CE leaf spring kit installed just the way they planned for it. Slapper bars, 3.00 gears, motor dynoed at 425 ft lb torque. I ran 13.70s at the track last weekend on slicks, no issues. Street tires, I'd say no worries for sure.
Install C.I. IFS on a 1938 Chevy. No welding-worked great. Fit good. And the screw jacks for ride height worked great also.
Why are you even contemplating using a GM rear? Ford 9" are so plentiful and much easier to work on. If you don't want to set one up yourself, there are plenty of stock car shops around that can do one for you, probably even in your own back yard if you look. Plus they're stronger and so much nicer looking than those clunky GM's.
I could've used a 9" but it just seems rusty novas are real plentiful in new jersey. Real easy to find. I almost bought a whole 2 door nova for the price of the rear just for the 8.5. Was gonna use the front clip off nova for a fire pit then realized I don't need more car stuff in yard. Used 373 off craigslist new bearings and seals and I'm good. No biggie. Oh yeah-gm spindles and gm engine and trans also. Maybe I should've just got a 37 Chevy? Lol Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
GM spindles? What kind of front suspension are you using there? I sure hope not from a Nova. I've seen that done to early Fords and it is an abortion. If you're using 49-54 Chevy, rethink that. People stopped doing that conversion in the 70's because there are much better brakes available nowdays.
That kit, installed as designed, including the way it is welded and the bolt in configuration will hold up to anything you will be able to throw at it with that wimpy 10 bolt and the amount of tire that will fit under a 37. Mine has been under my 37 Ford for over 15 years and thousands of miles. There is no reason to fully weld the parts, they are Plenty strong the way they are.
Oops-i meant gm patterned spindles. Since I'm doing gm rear I just wanted it to match. I actually have a 46 ford axle laying around (yard art) from another project that was drilled for Chevy spindles. Didn't realize till I went to rebush it. I'm using a kit for my original 37 on my 37. I've also seen guys run low 10s on 8.5 ten bolts with the wheels in the air. You can throw alloys in em. More than I'll need. There is a 7.5 10 bolt that is junk and way more common. The big 10 bolt got a bad rap cause of it. Not looking to argue but just saying. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
search C E 10 bolt rear if your going to use lowering blocks.There is a problem with U bolt plate bending.
I have a complete chassis engineering fron end kit in my '46. I was going over the car one day and noticed that one of the front shock mounts was broken away from the frame. I checked the other side and it too was broken. It has two upper shock bolt positions but if I use the upper hole the shock had limited up travel and if I used the lower bolt hole I had limited down travel. I called CE looking for replacement shock mounts and a different shock absorber and was told that "it's the only shock absorber available from us". This was a dangerous situation because if the lower shock bolt wasn't tight the shock could have tilted out into the wheel and I wouldn't be able to steer the car. Called Bilstein with the dimensions and they gave me their part no. for the correct shock and I couldn't be happier with the ride.
Im on my forth set of front shock mounts on my 36. I believe that there is a definite design flaw with the part. I must say though, they have sent me a new set EVERY TIME that I have called them. I am in the process of modifing the design of the latest set before I install them. Chassis Engineering has the best customer service that I have ever seen. Mitch.
Yes they are still 3/16ths. I believe the problem is the base of the uprights end at the center line of the bolts thus allowing the mount to flex at that point. I plan on tig welding extensions to the uprights to bring them down to the bottom of the mount. If that doesnt work I will fab them from 1/4 " stock, although I would rather have the mount break than the frame rails tear away. Still, I really feel that they produce some of the finest chassis kits available for the money. Mitch.
I've used their parts pretty much from their beginning, and I've never broken anything they fabricated. Sometimes now and then I'll do some more welding or trimming just to suit me on that application. Good company.
Exactly... grade 5 has a little give to it, grade 8 is too brittle for the application. Also recommend a rear that is a bit stouter. Bob
"...grade 5 has a little give to it, grade 8 is too brittle for the application." With all due respect, you're kidding - right? Grade 8 is much stronger in both tensile & shear strength. "Brittle"? I think not.
Bob, I will post some pics a bit later today. There is a broken one on the right side now and the left one is almost there. plus I have two off the car that are broken. Mitch.
Thanks, Mitch, that'd save me a lot of time & disapointment and would be much appreciated. I've got my '36 chassis almost complete, so I'd rather change/fix/fabricate now, before the body's back on. I'm surprised that C.E. hasn't rectified the problem yet. I was very pleased with their other stuff.
Bob, I havent gotten overtomy Moms house today where I have the car sitting. I have suggested to Chassis Eng about modifing the design but they say that noone else is having issues withthe mounts. I will spin over there tonite to snapsome pics. Mitch.
Here are a couple of cell phone pictures of the broken shock mount. You can see how it has failed right thru the bolt center line, right where the upright gusset ends. this is a flex point and every one of the four shock mounts have failed in the same spot. I'm modifying the next set so the bottom of the upright ends at the base of the bracket where it rolls under the frame rail, thus hopefully eliminating the flex. I have checked ,double checked and triple checked the shock travel both extended and compressed and neither is the problem, it just seems to be poor design. Mitch.
Mitch, Thanks very much for taking the time & making the effort to post the pics - you've saved me, and possibly others, a lot of extra work and maybe a dangerous situation on the road. I will be fabricating new mounts this week ! -Bob
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