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technical. making panels with an fsp.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by stinkity stoink, May 14, 2013.

  1. stinkity stoink
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 205

    stinkity stoink
    Member
    from new jersey

    Ok I am not computer savy so I will do the best I can. Hopefully you can follow along.

    Ok here is my tech on flexible shape patterns (fsp). I am definitely no expert and have only read about it. This was my first try at it. <O:p</O:p
    First off get a low stick masking tape and begin laying out the pattern on the panel. But it right up to the next layer and try not to get any wrinkles.<O:p</O:p
    Now cut the tape at the edges. <O:p</O:p
    Over the masking tape lay out fibre reinforced tape. Let that overlap about 1/8 of an inch. Same thing no wrinkles on this.
    Now mark out were the edges and curves are on the panel. This goes into the wheel well. Theres more on the other side. Any crown that might be significant mark it on the tape. Use different colors for different things

    Peel the tape off carefully. This is why you need low stick masking tape. Mine was a little to sticky.<O:p</O:p
    Than put it on the floor in the pile of dust you made from stripping tha car and found out you needed a patch panel. Or you could just sprinkle some powder on it to take the stickiness away.<O:p</O:p

    Now you have youre panel shape. You can lay it on some steel and cut it out. Leave some excess.
    Now you need to get all the marks transferred to the steel . Punch holes where you made all of you,re marks ( I wish I had a good leather punch for this) . Transfer those holes to the steel. Make sure you punch two hole some where on the fsp as witness marks. This way you always put it back in the same spot
    Now start working the metal. I bent the first part over my knee.

    So I needed a little crown in the panel. I put it in my English wheel for a few passes. I really am not sure what I am doing with it.

    But I definitely got some crown.<O:p</O:p
    <O:p</O:p
    <O:p</O:p
     

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    Last edited: May 14, 2013
  2. tunafoot
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 18

    tunafoot
    Member

    Nice job, BTW it helps to use a second layer of fibre reinforced tape at 90 degrees to the first layer. It will hold its shape better and not fall apart when you remove it.
     
  3. stinkity stoink
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 205

    stinkity stoink
    Member
    from new jersey

    Now I broke out my fancy pliers and started gradually bending where it needed to go. This took a few slow passes.

    I started making the line tighter with a hammer and different dollys.
    Than I got the holy shit moment many people get when something is actually working. This might just turn out o.k.

    Damn I know there is a way to get this corner ,but I am not skilled enough. So I have to cut it and weld it back together.<O:p</O:p
    <O:pO.k. Its getting there. I know all the serious metal shapers on here are laughing about now ,but I am pretty happy so far with only two hours worth of work.
    <O:pThere is the fsp on the panel. When you lay it on you will be able to see where more or less work is needed. When it fits right it will lay down nicely. This will need some more work ,but you get the idea. The beauty is you can take the fsp and flip it around and make the same panel for the opposite side. <O:p</O:p
    I want to be clear that I read about this and am not the originator of this. It’s on metal working websites I just figured I would give it a try. So I wrote a tech on it also</O:p
    </O:p</O:p
     

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  4. stinkity stoink
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 205

    stinkity stoink
    Member
    from new jersey

    so a second layer over the first. I did not know that. Thanks..
     

  5. Dexter The Dog
    Joined: Jun 27, 2009
    Posts: 195

    Dexter The Dog
    Member

    Thanks for the post -
    Interesting trick. I've always used box board which does nothing to give an approximate on the compound shape the way this would.
    I'm wondering if a low tac pre-mask for vinyl graphics would save a lot of fussing with the masking tape. It's available in rolls up to 50" and is thin enough that the fibre tape would hold the wrinkles flat. A light mist of water first would allow it to release easily.

    If I can make a suggestion for you - invest in a set of Cleco's. It'll be the best 30 bucks you ever spent. No more magnets and sheet metal screws for fitting.
     
  6. stinkity stoink
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 205

    stinkity stoink
    Member
    from new jersey

    I definitely need a set of clecos. This was my first real attempt at making my own panel and it would definitely help to have them.
    Thanks..
     
  7. DadsBlueFord
    Joined: Oct 2, 2011
    Posts: 472

    DadsBlueFord
    Member
    from Hayden, ID

    Nice work! Watching this one...
     
  8. atomickustom
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    atomickustom
    Member

    Such a simple idea, and it never occurred to me. Thank you!
     
  9. 28TUDOR
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 419

    28TUDOR
    Member

    Tuna's got it, I've used the 2" blue painters tape for the first layer the duct tape over that. After you remove it from the panel it's thick enough to trace without wrinkling.
    28
     
  10. If you dont have clecos zip screws work well also
     
  11. rouye56wingnut
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 352

    rouye56wingnut
    Member
    from mn.

    Go to the kitchen and take Glad Peal and Stick for the first layer followed up with 2 layers of fiber reinforced packing tape criss crossed for strength . Also after each layer I like to scetch out my bend and cut lines with a Sharpie so that as I add tape I wont lose where they are .
     

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