Rust products review

I've tryed different kinds of rust paints over the years. All were used where they see every day wheather use, and in Mich. that means Salt in the winter.
So far the best for me has been Rust Bullet,it doesnt need any special cleaners like metal cleaner ,metal prep that POR15 recomends that you should use. Unfortunatly I've had bad results with POR15.
On the other hand with Rust Bullet I just need to clean the big rust and wipe down with laquer thinner if there is anything dirty and then paint. It is UV protected and 2 coats recomended.
I've paint quite a few things with Rust Bullet and the most impressive to me was the bush hog I painted. The deck was rusted bad to where the deck rusted thin to nothing in some spots. Some 8yrs later now with water and pine needles (very acitic) sitting on top it still looks good.
I see Rust Bullet now sells black but I've only used silver.

 

Absolutely loving the discussion this has spawned. As I said at the start of my post it was not really a "scientific" test, but more of a real world comparison. I could do a very scientific test, but everything is open to interpretation and personal (field) experience.

I have had a follow up to this comparison in the works for some time as RustBullet sent me some of their product last year, Rust Defender just contacted me and I see KBS Coatings offered product in this thread. Restorers are a large and interested buying group for these products, so it's in our best interest to participate in grassroots experimentation.

So keep sharing your experiences with these products because it's your results that count - I'm just the catalyst!

PS - my next tests will include panels left outside over winter, as well as panels I will bolt to the underside of my van, as well as to a friends transport truck. The results will be posted on this and several other sites (As well as on my own), next spring.

 

I've tried rust converters and don't like them. Dried too hard to work with. Have about 15 years experience with POR-15 and learned the following:

Stuff is not bothered by brake fluid.
Do put saran wrap over the open can before putting on the lid. Stuff welds the lid on!
Turns chalky looking in the sun but after years of exposure rust doesn't come back.
Works great with fiberglass cloth to repair floor boards. Better than resin it sticks like crazy and seals against the elements.
Sticks well to rusted surfaces (Paint Over Rust) but is difficult to top coat. Dries too hard for most paints to stick to and sanding defeats the purpose. Easy solution is waiting several hours till POR is dry but still 'drags' a finger pulled over the surface then spray a good coat of automotive primer. Primer is bonded to the POR and paint will stick to the primer.
Impossible to get off you or your clothes. Get new clothes and wait for new skin to grow.
Hope this helps. I still use the stuff and have a love/hate relationship with it.

 

Thanks, but had you read through the thread you'd have seen most of what you wrote is already in there. As for topcoating, either paint within the re-coat window, as you said, or, use their Tie-Coat primer, which bonds new paints to cured POR15 - no sanding required.

 

What about battery acid resistance?

 

Anybody know the difference between black moisture cured urethane and concrete and wood floor sealer with pigment?

 

The single component moisture cure urethanes have moderate resistance to brake fluid and battery acid .Two component polyesters such as AG 111 contain three resins and offer excellent resistance to chemicals and acids. But from experience any type of coating will eventually break down from prolonged exposure, at least discoloration. I would suggest a good rust preventative primer ,can't think of any, and topcoat it with a rubberized type coating. Hope this helps

 

Rust Destroyer just sent me a gallon of their High Heat, 5-year warranty Single-component rust sealer. This, along with Rust Bullet and Duplic-color's offerings should make for another good tech article - stay tuned!

 

Saw the KBS booth at the ATHS show - reminded me that was my #1 pick after studying the plethora of rust products out there. 2nd choice was MasterSeries and I almost pulled the trigger on, and think it would also work well.

Just used Ospho and Rustoleum rusty metal primer and black enamel on the COE, just for a temporary seal on the heavy surface rust. It will really need sandblasting come real re-paint time.

After reading all the problems associated with Ospho and expoxy primer, decided that was not the route to permantly protect the Dart wagon's looong roof that is now sanded bare metal with slight rust pits left.

Just ordered up KBS wax and grease remover (KBS AquaKlean) step #1, which is an excellent buy since it's concentrated and makes up 5 times as much. The first thing you should do before you sand and prep anything for paint is clean it with a good wax and grease remover.

Also ordered their etch (RustBlast) step #2, which sounds much less caustic than Ospho.

Went with the galvanized (RustSeal) for step #3 because it sounds the closest to a primer/surfacer. I have grey epoxy primer already on hand I could go over it with, for added protection or if I don't like the "galvanized" color. For the firewall and fenderwells ordered the UV stable topcoat in satin black (BlackTop).

Even ordered a 5 pack of the paint can spouts - just the ticket for a paint that welds the lid on the can! Not to mention the mess when trying to pour any paint from a can.

KBS always has discount codes, and shipping is same day via FedEx and is very reasonable at $9.95 flat rate for such heavy products. Excellent website and excellent order communication.

For success with these products, I can see following the instructions will be key. All will be sprayed carefully to avoid runs. Will report back with pics.

 

Here's the wagon roof shot in first coat of KBS galvanized steel RustSeal coating, still wet. It dried a flat metallic or galvanized look.

Prep:
AquaKean.
150 DA to bare metal.
AquaKean.
Evapo-Rust over night soak. (Paper towels under plastic sheet).
Aqua-Klean.
150 DA.
RustBlast 1 hour soak.
AquaKean.

Application:
Reduced 10% and HVLP shot at 35psi.
24hr dry.
Knocked off any dust nubs with 320grit.
2nd coat laid on a little heavier now that I have a feel for it. After 1st coat your could still see the pits where rust was, after 2nd coat they are gone - Talk about flow out!
Will do a guide coat now and sand to verify everything is filled, then a 3rd coat to finish.

Thought all the KBS products were very easy to work with, even the paint can spouts. First time I ever had a can of paint after pouring without a drop of paint in the groove, The Evapo-Rust I bought at AutoZone and really like it too. Non toxic! The paper towels turned red from the rust it dissolved, even in areas I thought were rust free.