There´s no sectioning - the body is stock, except for extending the front edge of the fenders forwards (and the taillight work). There is going to be a lot of pie cutting and reshaping in the roof to make it so rounded looking, but that´s it.
interesting.. i think i would add a gold flake line between the green and black.. like 1/4" or so... gold or maybe orange to stick out.
I hate you. That car is too perfect, it has been in the family too long, your designs are too well-thought out, your workmanship too good and your garage and tools too organized. Oh, and your progress is far too fast. Please cut it out as you are making the rest of us look worse than we are.
What about those stiffener ribs you were gonna' put in the firewall? Decide against them? I forget, you were using .063 aluminum, yes? Solid rivets, or Cherry- Max ? You said you work in the aircraft bidness', did you scout around for some "out of date" sealer for between the firewall and the structure? Some 1422 or 1425 "B" consistency would have given you enough working time, ( as long as it wasn't "B1/2"). I like your build!.......Rock on!
The oil pump cover I used was a Milodon #21225. They say it is for the wedge motors, but it will also fit the regular B & RB blocks. The other one I pictured above was on FABO, but you'll have to search around on there to find it. Looks small & clean though. I used shorty headers on mine. Sanderson & Hedman both make shorties for the Big blocks. I have Hedmans on mine.
The Drivers side water pump is not very rare - c bodies in the mid 70's had them, but they are even more heavy than the pass side units. I have one on my truck and the rad to match. I have heard of some coolant flow issues with the 440 source aluminum housings BTW - the passages on some can be quite a bit smaller than stock and pose a restriction.
Turns out it was Moparts.org Here is a link: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=7404545 The guy's handle there is LA360
I did the water pump on the driver's side, but it still so tight that I had to turn the radiator outlet up 90 degrees immediately at the radiator, and had to solder some copper plumbing L's together to snake through the power steering pump belt. It was a major hassle to get it all to work. No good pics of the finished product, but here's how close mine was:
Looks cool without the hood! I really like your oil filter set up! Nice n clean as usual! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
very nice work! I cannot believe how much you have done in such short time.....i wish i could have my 50 in that shape been working on her for over 2 years.
Do you have any progress photos of the front air ride set up? Feeling kinda stumped on mine right now Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I love those visors too, but it looks a little out of place on your car. Its just got that killer tough as nails moonshine/nascar look! But you really can't go wrong that's a good looking car! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yeah I'm wanting to say steel rubber products has most of that rubber. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That would be awesome...maybe I'll have to talk the wife into a long weekend! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hey, Rob, when you drilled for these bolts, were they centered on the original spring perch, or did you offset them somewhat?
Thanks a bunch Rob! Great diagram too. I hadn't actually thought about bagging my Plymouth, but I was curious about the geometry of the upper a-arm pivot in relation to the upper spring perch. I can't tell much without taking mine all apart to have a look inside the frame. Not a hard job, but I'd have to move two cars & a trailer, a boat, a dead lawn tractor & a pile of junk transmissions and stuff just to get to it right now. (Does that sound like anybody else's back yard? ) I was considering putting stem-type shocks inside the front spring rather than use the stock position & it looked from your photo like the upper stem could be located to miss the upper a-frame's pivot bar entirely. But clearly you've offset your thru hole way to inside of the perch. Virtually where it would hit the coils were the spring still there. This is not the situation I'd hoped for, but it is the one I did expect. Anyhow I was also wondering how much total travel your bag setup has & how that compares to the stock suspension travel. My front springs are butchered, and the rears are old & crusty, so I can see a need for upgrades here.
The Jalopy Journal
