I have a SBC with a B&M Super Charger. It has a brand new quick fuel 750'double pump carb. The car won't idle below 1100 and when I put it in gear it stalls. It has a stall converter so that shouldn't be a problem. If anyone has blower motor experience and has some time to chat on the phone I would like to hear your ideas. I'm running out of them. I also need to know how to adjust the carb since there is no manifold vacuum. All help is appreciated. I'm learning. Send me an email or private message me and we can set something up. Thanks
You need to mod your carb for a blower. http://www.superchevy.com/technical...p_0111_holley_blower_carburetors/viewall.html I'd start by contacting Quickfuel's tech line, see what parts they offer or advice they can give,
Have you tried some gas in a squirt bottle, sprayed down the carb? If it picks up adding fuel, you have a vacuum leak or lean condition. Normally I use carb cleaner, but I'm not real big on running that shit through a blower. That's what it sounds like, just from the high idle situation.
Carbs already been moded and sprayed around the outside of manifold, carb and blower looking for a vacuum leak. Idle never changed. I started the carb with a turn and a half on each adj screw like they recommend. Since I can't hook a vacuum gauge to a manifold source how do you tune the carb? I still think I have a vacuum leak but if the spray didn't find it what will?
Sounds to me like you need more fuel. Try richen up the idle mix, turn them out more. The reason you are idling high is so the throttle blades are open enough it is pulling more fuel through the primary circuit rather than the idle circuit.
Check the back of the blower case for a missing vacuum plug. This same thing just happened to me. With a new Dyers 6-71.
Did a pretty good search for vacuum leak. Need some education on the carb adjusting. Any good articles out there for blower motors?
Open the idle screws 1/2 turn at a time. If the idle comes up, back the throttle stop off until you are back to original rpm. Repeat. If you can't get it "too rich" (idle speed levels out or begins to fall) by about 3-3 1/2 turns, you DO have a vacuum leak. Also, if the throttle stop comes loose (butterflies are shut), you likely have the same problem. Do this with the pedal linkage disconnected, to eliminate the possibility of a bind somewhere.
I had a similar issue on a set of edelbrocks on my blown sbc it turned out carb linkage wasnt exactly synced together one was slightly more open than other It was so close you almost couldnt see the difference . It caused one carb to be running off primary circuit and not idle circuit
so the final story ends with a bad distributor. This thing created all kinds of problems but everything was solved with dropping in a new distributor. Thanks for the people who read this post and tried to help with their suggestions. I learned a lot from reading and trying different things they posted. Its a happy ending and I finally get to drive my Hot Rod. Even if its to the shagrin of the Pureist Studebaker guys.
Glad you are getting it figured out. Would probably benefit from a custom advance curve like I mentioned previously they usually like a lot of initial timing (mine runs best at about 22* initial)
Exwestracer is not talking about a vacuum leak, he is talking about a lean carb, dump fuel fdown the throat and see what the reaction is. As for tunning with a vacuum gauge it is not done with a blower motor, you trim your carbs by feel. It either takes a natural knack or years of experience, or both. This is part of the reason that dyno tunning has become so popular, there is still a huge learning curve but with a dyno you can tune by the numbers. Men and women that can tune one by ear are few and far between.
Actually Benno, I was talking about a vacuum leak; but same result. Raw fuel or carb cleaner down the throat will let you know. Glad the OP got is sorted out.