Here is an easy way to build a trunk or rumble lid for just about any car from the late 1920s to early 1930s. I dont have a tube bender, shrinker, or anything fancy, so I figured I give it a shot with what I have. I built my 1929 Model A coupe a few years back and used the rusty old lid that came with the body for the first year just for something to cover the hole. That look got old fast so heres what I built. I started with a 20 gauge louvered steel panel. I bought this on ebay for around $125. It was the width and length of the Model A opening plus a few inches extra on each side. If you know of someone who can louver, have a sheet cut out and punched to your desired pattern. You can also use plain sheet metal if you dont want the louvers. Here's a similar one:
Next I measured the opening along all of the edges (across the top, across the bottom, and along the curve on the sides). I bought enough ¾” X ¾” X 16GA square steel tubing to go all the way around with enough extra to go across once and for the corner braces. I had an old bear claw latch lying around along with a 1937 Ford V8 trunk handle. The only other things I had to purchase were the cable and clamps for the latch. To get started, I cut the top and bottom tubing to length leaving 3/16” clearance on each end. This will allow for your gap between the trunk lid and body. Next miter each end at 45 degrees. I used a cut off wheel to cut through 3 sides of the tubing so it could be easily bent to fit the slight curve of the body. There are 7 slices in each. Once I could bend the tube to match the body shape as close as I could, I clamped them to the opening and tacked the cuts back together.
Cut the tubing for the sides of the opening allowing an extra inch to be trimmed off later (better off too long than too short). I used the same method to bend the tubing to match the curve of the quarter panels. At the tightest radius, I have cuts as close as 1/2” apart. Once it is close and the cuts allow enough bend, miter the top ends at 45 degrees to fit to the upper tube. I used 3/16” wood shims and clamped everything in place. Next tack weld the cuts to hold the curved shape, starting at the top and working your way down. Adjust the shims and clamps as needed. Once you are happy with the shape, miter the bottom to fit the lower tube. You should have all four sides clamped in place with shims holding the gap. Do not weld all four tubes together yet.
Finish fitting: Finish weld the relief cuts and grind all welds flat. Once you are done with this step, check for fit against the body. The curve may change due to the heat from welding. I had to heat the side tubes with the torch and fine tune the shape slightly. Once all four sides are welded and finished, clamp them in place using the shims again. Tack weld the corners together. Cut four corner braces at 6” long and miter each end at 45 degrees. Tack the four corner braces in. Add a cross tube to hold the width about mid-way up. The tabs in the corners are for the stock rubber bumpers.
Hinges: I used a short section of steel steering tubing and located them at an appropriate pivot point. Inside of the round tube is a section of rubber fuel line acting as a cushion or bushing. Transfer the locations to the body and mount with bolts, a washer, and nylock nuts. Even though the louvers on my sheet metal allow for the handle on the bottom like a trunk lid, I hinged it like a rumble lid just because there was more room that way and allowed it to pivot easier. I used a door bear claw latch to keep it shut. A simple tab locates it on the front edge. I adjusted it before putting the skin on.
Once I was happy with the frame, hinges, and latch, it was time to put the skin on in. To keep things in place I added two temporary braces from each front corner to each back corner. Next I did some measuring and centered up the skin on the frame. I used every clamp and vice-grip I had to hold it in place. Once in place, trace around the frame so you can trim the extra off. Trim and clamp back on. I started tack welding at the top, center working my way out and then down the sides. Even though the frame is curved in two directions, there is enough give to make it lay down flat. Finish weld and grind all four sides smooth.
Locate and drill an appropriate hole for your handle. The cable and cable clamps are used to link the handle to the latch. Adjust the cable and you are finished.
3034 Excellent tech thread. Could you, when time permits,take a couple more shots of the trunk lid in the open position, showing the hinges, etc? I'd like to see it. Are you going to use some kind of rubber seal to reduce the noise when you're hauling A**? I'd like to duplicate this task for a winter project on my roadster to clean it up a bit.
Great Tech Thread!!! Thanks for posting. I've often thought about this exact way to fab a trunk lid. Now that I see it step by step and all your great pictures. I will do this for my '30 Ford Roadster build. I'm saving your thread. Great job! Thanks again.
Excellent Tech thread! I will be borrowing this when I get back on my feet and continue with my '29. Thanks for posting!
Dude, you have probably just saved my ass....Thanks man!!!! Some of this could probably be applied to the door I need to finish as well.
I like it,the 20 gauge louvered steel panel looks great and louvers cover up lack crown compound in a stock trunk lid that you would of needed a englishwheel for other wise. cool.
good job man! I have to fix my rumble lid soon, the bottom is all rusted out. a lot of the bodies you find are missing the rumble lid. Good way to make something out of nothing..
Thanks for the added images. Really adds to your initial tech article. Very doable for someone like me with limited talent & tools. Great job!
The title is promising. I came here to learn how to put the compound curve in the skin. Read it twice, dont see any mention of it. you guys talking about doors will need the compound curve in the door skin too.
I did sorta the same thing on my '27 only mine's a trunklid. Did the same sliced 1" tubing frame too. Only problem is...........yours looks way better than mine! Why is that? Also, glad to see I'm not the only one with no trunk space whatsoever!
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