Saltflats, I bent them on this type bender. You can't just put it in and bend a 100% the first time. I found that do about three or four pumps after it is tight against the die, then move it about a inch or two then repeat the pumps. Took trial and error before I figured it out. Some I have an hour or more time into to get to fit the shape right.
need louvers ? No problem about last night after some comments earlier in post when I started it there were a few comments from nay-sayers and I wasted time replying to there post. Then I decided not to worry about it I have a lot better things to do than mess with them. But it seems no matter what kind of board there are those types. I want to thank the Moderators for taking care of the problem. Joe
That "industrial vinegar" is Acetic Acid and you can buy it at a camera supply store since they use it in film developing, BUT it is like 5 times strength of store bought vinegar so it absolutely needs mixed down with water. Good luck.
Ha ha! Thanks for the lead! I just got back in from looking to see who has the best price on regular vinegar locally, and if you have a Smart and Final store near you it will set you back just 2.04 gallon. We don't have a pickling season down here so I doubt that price will ever fluctuate 'round these parts. I have a large camera store right down the street, so I'll darken their door on Monday and see what I can out about the industrial stuff. The other process I have seen involves molasses, which I'm told can be bought in five gallon quantities at animal feed stores, but being a downtown boy in huge town I have to drive at least 25 miles to find a feed store...
need louvers I live in a small town that has a feed mill they sell molasses by the pound, i got about 2 1/2 gals. for less than 3bucks then you dilute that 5/1 may be cheaper and dose the same. Sorry for the jump in op4 just trying to be helpful. And i'm liking your build keep up the good work, the third light makes good sense, they drive like assholes around here also, you'll at least be able to get up to speed with the 283 i'm still running a banger and they scare the hell out of me jack
Saltflats, It has round dies. I just make sure the bender is level, then put a magnetic level on the sq. tube and make sure it is vertical level on the side of the tube before making bends. Joe
Older Child, No problem on helping someone along in getting their project done cheaply. I figure that is what boards are for to help find info. Joe
Got the rest of the body frame and B-pillars made and tacked in. Had a couple of more pictures than this but the new Photobucket isn't working worth a sh**. Will try later to see if I can get them in here. Need to figure out how I'm going to do the piece above the doors. Then it looks as I'll take the body of the frame jig down to a level where I can see what I'm doing to make up the roof. Instead of being 6+ feet in the air. Here are the other 2 photos.
Looking good OP i'v seen on here the other people are having trouble with photobucket ,wish i could help but i can barely run this dam thing as it is now, good luck. Jack
Looking good Joe. Do you dilute your vinigar mixture? Mines coming along great. thanks for the parts ! Thanks,Dave
Just ran across this thread, great work Joe. I enjoy seeing good metal work done without the high dollar equipment. I think hand tools, some time, and a little ingenuity is where its at for most of the builders on this board. Just throwing this out there on the rust removal.. I've been using electrolysis and have had some really good results. In fact, as soon as my shop is finished I plan to build another large enough for panels. Its quick and clean. keep the updates coming!
Was able to work a little yesterday. Got the beginning of the bar(S) that will got from the top of the A to B pillar post made and tacked in on the Pass side door area. It's fun trying to figure out how to make a door that didn't have a weather seal at the top of the door to now have one. The way I see it right now I'm going to run two 1/2" sq.tubes across from each other with about a one inch gap and with a 1/8th" filler piece between the two 1/2" tubes.
Put some braces in the cowl area. Then got the body on the floor. Now its at a level where I can work on the roof cross braces. No more standing on a step stool to reach the top of the car. But with the body on the floor I had to figure out where to put the chassis jig. My only option I could come up with was to stand it on the end and secure it so it would not fall if it got bumped. I either need more space or less stuff. I think the latter is the solution, just look in the background and you'll see what I mean. So it looks like another day or two cleaning before anymore progress on the car is done. Joe
Mart3046, Love the line describing the car. I'll have to remember that one when I get the car done. Thanks Joe
Well Been traveling all week on business. Did a little yesterday. Today I stripped the skin off so I could finish welding the body framework in areas where the sheet metal was in the way. Kind of an invisible body looking now. Joe
haaaa looks like a chicken bone after my dad got done with it clean,looking good keep them coming...........jack. Oh his name was Joe too
As a 6'2" hot rodder, I can fully respect your decision to widen and lengthen the hell out of that T. Sometimes we forget how much smaller the average person was back when these cars were new. Awesome work, man. I'll be following this one until it's done.
chaddilac, Frame is going to be 1 1/2 x 3 rectangle tube. Have not totally decided to do as a T-bucket style or a perimeter type. The body will be channeled over the frame. Will have quarter elliptic springs on front with a 4 inch dropped I-beam axle. Rear is 9 inch Ford round back with triangulated 4-link. Joe
QuarterLifeCrisis, Yeah I'm 6' myself, didn't want to be munchin on my knee caps every time I drove the the car Joe
Sorry Guys & Gals for the long time for an update on the Insani-T build. Bad winter and didn't want to heat the shop at below zero weather. Since it is finally starting to warm up a little wher I can get out and spend a few hours out in the shop. I'm in the stages of mocking up the chassis, going to have a triangulated 4 link on the rear. I had a regular 4 bar kit and I decided to make it into the triangulated set-up. In doing this I needed to have the upper tabs that attach to the rear housing & the upper brackets that attach to the frame. I decided to make the brackets/tabs myself since it was going to cost more in shipping that the 4 upper tabs would cost. Here is what I came up with; two of the tabs I will have to shorten after I know where they will set on the housing. Chassis bracket may need the angle changed slightly but will see on mock up. Joe
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