so i just finished bleeding the brakes on the 58 biscayne for the second time. there are no leaks and no bubbles in the lines. i installed the front discs conversion from autocity classic, with 7" booster. the brakes work but i have to push the pedel down about half way before they start. and they work about as good as the old drums, i was expecting a huge differance. is there an adjustment on the booster or somthing im missing??
the MC is mounted just insidee the firewall in stock location. the kit came with porp.valve how can i tell if it adjustable, how do i adjust it ? it seems that they should work alot better. the pedal is nice and firm when the car is of but once started the pedel will go 3//4 the way to the floor befor it feels like is doing anything. Ideals???
the rod is adjustable,right, its the rod from the back of the MC that connects to the pedel. is there an easy way to extend it. can i just get a longer piece of all thread and replace it. does anyone know the correct demension
It's the pushrod between the master and booster, not between the pedal and the booster. You would need to remove the master cylinder from the booster. Measure the depth where the pushrod goes into the master. Then measure the distance that the pushrod extends from the booster and compare the difference. Should have a slight amount of clearance. Was the master cylinder bench bled before install? Also check the adjustment on the rear brakes. In my opinion there is still some air in the system.
i didnt bench bleed the MC. do you have to do that? Ive got to assume the rod is the right one as they came together in the same ccp kit. ive bleed them twice and the second time got just a bubble or two out of one line the rest were all good.
autocity classic does not have a picture of your application on their website. If your master cyl has a rectangular block right off it with lines from the front bore and rear bore you have a non ajustable proportioning valve. Some of those valves need to be gravity bled. All lines at the wheels opened and let drain. The sliding valve in them will get stuck in one position or another when presure bled. Did not instructions come with the kit? Look up bleading procedure for any 70s 80s chevy with a proportioning valve and follow the instructions. Nick
i did gravity bleed to begin with as i put new lines on so i figured gravity feeding ment a good time for a beer break. yeah i think it not adjustable too. its got front right and left and a rear bore.
I always bench bleed first before I install the master. That way I am not adding more air to the system that will have to be bled out down stream. It also tells me if there is a problem with the master before I install it. I also had a thought about your front calipers. There is a left and a right. The bleeder screws should be at the top of the caliper. I have seen them installed on the wrong sides. If the bleeders are not at the top you will not get all the air out.
i rebleed them one more time today for giggles and no air pockets. i did adjust the pedel to MC rod and it made it better not quit like a newer car but they stop fine so i think im good thanks for all your help
Bench bleeding is mandatory. Make sure that your REAR shoe drag is set properly. You'd be surprised what effect it has on the pedal feel, and travel.
A quick way to see if the rear adjustment is causing the low pedal is to set the parking brake and see if the pedal improves.