HEMI Tech- Blowers, Superchargers, fuel injection

Some good fixes for this problem... I like both Kerry's and Gary's....345's is Ok, too.

I was thinking of using my old set of chrome covers and tig welding on a short filler tube kinda like the breathers we used on our old stock cars... I guess I could rig up a remote filler and use the threaded bung on the valley cover...

Gotta think on this fer awhile... at least I'm finally working on this project again.

 

YOU know what they say,,,INJECTION,S NICE BUT ID RATHER BE BLOWN

 

Here is a video of what mine flat 6 sounds like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TASpT8QQEY4

 

Another deal showed up last night... this is a question for the guys using a stock crank hub with the pulleys bolted to the hub...

I'm using a Dyer's drive kit (uses a the stock hub with or without a damper) and the stock crank hub is threaded for 5/16" NF... the Dyers hub/pulley is drilled for a sloppy fit with 3/8" bolts. I'm not real crazy about have 1/32" clearance on a 3 1/2' long bolt that goes thru the crank pulley.

I'm thinking of redrilling and tapping the six crank hub bolts for a 3/8" bolt then using a small bush under the bolt head to take up the slop in the pulley holes. I talked to Bill Dyer this morning and he said they just use 38" bolts and call it good... probably is Ok since these guys have been doing this a lot longer than I have...

The middle pic here kinda shows the style of pulley I'm using (although this is a Chevy set-up)... My early MOPAR drive kit is really a Dyer's BBC kit with a modified bottom pulley to accomadate the early MOPAR hub. http://www.dyersblowers.com/187/1649.html

 

Here's how to hide the fuel injection-

 

i have got 1 of those blower manifolds, bought it at a swapmeet A$500.00, I %$%&&^^ UP,fits my hemi ok, not my poly, found out that 354 hemi truck heads were at fault

 

That's neat! I met this pretty cool dude, Fran Olson (Boston Area Roadsters club), over the net back in 2005 that was making injector plates for the early Dodge Hemis and I believe he used the O ring-tipped injectors that pressed into the hats and a Megasquirt system to operate it all. Here are some pics that he sent me. He may be here on the HAMB.

 

'54 331", .030 over, Clay Smith cam, Hilborn injection w/ EFI.
Dynoed at 330hp / 350tq.

 

I wound up bolting it to the front of my valve cover...

 

Great subject Scooter, i am in need of advice. I have a 354 and just picked up a bowers 6-71 magnesium 2 lobe and been thinking of using a half-dozen holley 1904's because i like the bowls. But they are tiny, should i cut them loose and use some 94's? SaltFlatMatt sent me flanges to make the intake manifold for the carbs an i been dragging my feet thinking the 1904s' are too small.
This is not gonna be a race motor, its goin in my avatar with a 4 speed.
Whats do you guys think?
thanks, oj

 

Even as a daily driver a blown 354 should have 700-800 cfm on top. Are the 1904's rated at all??

my 2¢

.

 

I'm catching hell here .
Something is wrong and I'm not sure where its at.
Seems like the entire blower and manifold need to come forward .

 

What are we looking at...the firewall? If it is, you either need to move the engine forward, the body back, or recess the fire wall...

 

Blower is way too close to distributor

 

Here's the back

 

Here's the front.
Straight edge is on the block. And lines up with drive surface.
It's a weiand swing arm drive.
The drive needs a 1/2" shim to line up with the crank.
The swing arm hits the water pump.
And one rear cover bolt was ground down to let the cap go on.

Seems like the entire manifold and blower need to come forward.
The only thing goofy is those are truck heads.

If you guys can take the same pics of your working set up ill be able to tell what's going on I hope

 

No, You need a narrower rear blower cover. There is available finned sealed bearing rear covers that are narrow. I have one on my 6-71 and have plenty clearance.



Ago

 

Racers use a different rear bearing housing. You can machine the housing down around the perimiter and leave the bearing towers alone and use shorter bolts.Just put caps on to seal the bearings and shafts.

 

This makes perfect sense -
Now what about the front?
A thicker cover there ?

 

Something like/ similar to this for the rear ?

 

Here's a Manifold Gary Evans made for me to use '54 heads and block using the stock front cover. It's a 2x4 Offy manifold milled flat, we used a 1" spacer plate welded to the manifold and then milled that to the same plane as the intake runners so it sits level, then a plate bolted to the top of it for the blower. This way all the water stuff goes where it should and the tall heat riser is covered by the intae. Gary is a genius and super talented. It wouldn't have happened without him for sure.



Tim

 

You need to do what TERPU said. That's how I did mine. That way you can put the blower EXACTLY where it needs to go...

 

The problem with changing out the rear bearing housing is that you may have to set up the blower again since the placment of the locating dowels might be off. Blower rebuilders will align the rear housing and re-ream the dowels and install oversize ones.

 

Well that's a fine job on both of you guys projects there. Very trick
Supposedly I have the majority of correct vintage parts that are supposed to fit together. Before I scrap that vintage manifold and build my own I think there's a few parts in the mix that are wrong.
What they are is the question. Rear plate seems to be a major player back there.
If I need to make my own manifold ill get buzzy soon. There's a bunch of blown chrysler hemi stuff already built though.

Oh great !
I paid good money once already to have this worked out.

 

You are using the old Weiand Typhoon intake, right? Unless the stud holes were moved you shouldn't have an issue. I've got the same intake on my digger and have a stock case, reinforced stock rear bearing plate, and a Cragar cover. Check out my space.



Here's a shot of the front



and here are some pictures of the Weiand Typhoon intake.

 

I have the plates from Fran Olson, and they are excellent.

 

Fran built this engine - 421 cubic inch stroker , supplied all the parts, Set the blower up, and he's also ground the bolt down so the distributor would fit.

 

See the manifold to blower relationship here ?

 

in the last pic, my set up, you can see the endplate is beyond the manifold.

in kerry's pic
look at the relationship of the cragar cover plate to the manifold on the far end at the manifold notch- looks like theres about 1/2" to 3/4 of manifold beyond the blower. is that correct ?
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Just knock your old plate off and machine it and alignment should not change