Ok, I had a funny noise in the front of my later flathead V8 and diagnosed it was a water pump...so I removed the radiator and grill shell to make installation of the new pump easier. Piece of cake, but I found a worse problem: a severely mangled front crossmember! The previous owner hacked up the original to get his radiator to fit, and did it in an unsound and dangerous way...it was almost split in half! You can see in the photos how the previous owner cut it and flattened it to make room for the radiator but didn't weld in new metal. I ground and punched out the rivets and removed the crossmember. Now I need a new one. My problem is: to use a stock crossmember in my stock, unboxed frame, I'd have to pull the engine and install it through the back of the frame. That would be fine, but there's a boxing plate welded in for the steering box and it's too far forward to wiggle the crossmember in from the back. What I'm thinking about doing is boxing the area where the crossmember would be, ahead of the motor mounts, and just welding in an aftermarket piece. -Is this safe and substantial enough? -Does anyone have another/better suggestion? The front suspension, fenders, radiator and shell are all off the car so everything is out in the open. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I just installed an aftermarket (So Cal) one. It has 1" less drop in the center, so 1" lower than stock ride height. It does not have the flanges on the bottom like stock, just a U shape. I would think that you could trim it at an angle, leaving the top as wide (long) as it was, but trim the bottom narrower to snake it in there (maybe one side only). Then weld it in and re-enforce the area you trimmed, by forming a piece and welding it in the channel of the frame. Box around it for additional strength. Not optimum but will work since you are trying the leave the MM's in.
I've seen that SoCal crossmember, looks nice and has the built-in angle I want. Do those holes line up with the stock rivet holes on a Model A frame? Thanks for the response.
Here's how I was thinking about boxing it...with the boxing plate set into the frame rails about 1/8-3/16"...then weld the cross to that.
I bet you could pry the rails apart temporarily, and twist an original crossmember in there. Then the rails would spring back. Might need to undo the engine mounts first.
Could you cut the bottom flange of the rails out,push the new crossmember up,rivet or weld it in the reweld the bottom of the rails back in? Mark
Wow, that's really something eh? How long have you had the car and never noticed this? . . . but back to your problem. I'd try and pry the frame rails apart a bit, but honestly. . . I wonder if the frame is even square anymore up front since you removed the front cross member and it doesn't look like you did any temporary bracing the keep everything in place.
Glad this thread came up. I'm ready to pull the body on my '31 and box the frame, but have a crack on the top of the front x-member. I need the front another inch lower, so might as well install the SoCal piece and take care of it all at the same time.
Yes, pry the rails apart and slip that new member in there. I think in addition to removing the motor mounts I would also remove the front 4 body mounts, (2 per side) That way the 'stretch' would be more subtle, and guaranteed to work. Model T and A frames were stamped and hardened, similar to spring leaves, but 'milder'. They were built to resist mild accidents without bending, which they did...except in extreme cases. After fitting the new member, attach it with some bolts and nuts...Then run a string down the center of the frame, from the center of rear 'U' bolts across the center cross member, and tie it to a wire in the center front cross member. If the frame is over to one side or the other, it can be straightened with a length of chain and a Hi-Lift jack. Last measurement should be the level one. (long level on bottom of rear frame, ahead of rear member. Shim 'til level. Now check center of frame, on bottom of rails also. Again, shim if necessary. Finally, level the front with loose crossmember. Apply a heavy weight on each side while welding it in, tacks on both sides, evenly.) Now 'connect the dots'. Before any flamers cry out about weighting the front, Pete Eastwood has done this when he didn't have a frame jig open...Story in an older Street Rodder. So have I.
I like this idea the best and seems like the least work...all though that's not the only reason I like it. Also like this one...any suggestions on prying the rails apart?
Yes, the So cal holes line up. Those guys are right, with the mounts undone, the frame will spread. I have spread mine with a piece of all thread, nuts and washers. Works great
Ok, looks like I'd have to spread the frame a total of just over 2"...just over an inch on both sides. That's minimum. Does that sound about right? Thanks for all the help and to "crminal" for the phone call. This place is amazing.
Well, it's been a few years that I've owned this car...but just never noticed the crossmember since everything on the car is dialed. I rebuilt the rear and transmission, replaced heads and intake, but never had to do anything in the front suspension. I am surprised I didn't see it before, but with full fenders and '32 shell it was kinda hidden...not really
This sounds good, too! Now it's a toss up between spreading the frame and cutting the horns off. I am a bit apprehensive to spread and stress an 82 year old frame and it would be nothing to chop the horns and re-weld. Y'all have made me feel a lot better about my predicament. I'll post my progress and outcome!
The horns cut off sounds pretty good. But also remember when thinking about spreading the frame, you'll only be spreading the frame the amount of one rail, not two, or about 1.5 inches. You can slip the crossmember in one side and then push the rail apart. But again, I also think the frame horn surgery might be a good option.
I also would try to spread the frame out, those frames have lots of flex and it will just spring right back
Hate to dredge up an old thread, but I've run into an important fact that should be addressed so people searching this thread don't take away bad info. The SoCal front crossmember does NOT bolt up to a stock "A" frame after removing the original. I verified this with SoCal after test fitting it on my frame. The holes will line up on a '32 frame (per them). The crossmember will work on a "A" frame, you just need to install it in the same relative position as the stock one, then weld it in. The rivet holes in the frame make for good plug welds though.
Hey all!! Anybody have a 4 speed Muncie in a 30-31 model A? Wondering the placement of the shifter in reference to the body crossmember in front of the seat. Thanks Joe Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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