My '38 Chrysler has the Cavalier rack conversion. It was in there for several years working fine, but I had to disconnect it to do some other repairs, and now I can't get the pressure line to stop leaking. The leak is at the 16mm o-ring fitting on the pressure side of the rack. I've put 3 different o-rings on; tried tightening it more...tightening less...I just can't get it to stop. I'm using Dorman #099-011.2 o-rings that are 7/16" o.d. and 5/16" i.d. Is there something I should know about o-rings that could be my problem? This is turning into one of those things that seems like it ought to be routine, but ends up taking forever.
you might need a thicker o-ring or get the correct "metric'' size o-ring. i used to run into that problem all the time when i worked at an auto parts store.
I guess I could go buy one of those assortments. To be honest I didn't know there were different ones for metric...
You might try a G.M. parts house. They are expensive, but what could an o ring cost? I hope you don't mind if I ask you a question about a post you did back in 07 on moving your shocks. Excellent post you did. My question is about your 38. In one of the pictures it shows a stabilizer bar. I was wondering what it was off of and do you think it would fit under your 50 Mopar. If so then it should fit my 49 Plymouth.
Are you sure the line is not cracked at the O ring flange? If it is, all the O rings in the world won't seal it. They tend to crack the tubing at the collar that the nut seats against. Look it over real good. Gene
The (anti)sway bar on the '38 was one I had made because the original (Yes, they really had an OE one on the '38!) would no longer fit with all the changes I made. My '50 Plymouth also has a stock sway bar, so I'm sure they made one for your '49 as well. The '38 and '50 bars attach differently from each other (Both the link and the frame mount are different), so they don't appear interchangeable. I'll have to hold up my OE '38 one to the '50 and see if there is a way it could be made to work. The '50 bar would be easy for a well-equipped shop to duplicate, but the bushings that attach it to the control arms are unique and would have to be sourced.It would also be easy just to come up with your own design and use Energy Suspension universal links & bushings. On my O-ring leak, it turned out a bit of metal was stuck down where the o-ring seats in the rack casting. Once I got that cleaned out I got a good seal; it was just impossible to see in there because of the rack's position, so I missed it the first 5 or 10 times I tried...
Thanks for the info. I could tell that the 38 front end was different than mine and yes mine does have one, but it looks kinda flimsy so I was looking for a heavier replacement. I read on one of the other posts here that a cherokee could be used, but it interfered with the turning radius. Planning to use a Sunbird rack and will have to plan that out so as not to lose any turning radius there either. I want all I got. I might have to have a bar made like the stock one. Anyway I am sure glad to hear that you found the answer to your leak and on the cheap at that. Thank for answering.
Tailpipe- The rack itself will lose you some turning radius. Got a link for the reference to the Cherokee sway bar?
I didn't find the post referring to the tire rub, but I found the one that got me looking,( plymouth rack and disc conversion (my version) by Supervert. There is picture of the cherokee bar on the car even though the post is about another Cav. rack, the pic. is the 21st. plc. and the info. comes on second page, post # 30. Give the hole post a looking over and let us know your thoughts.
4woody I found the post that refers to the tire getting into the sway bar in case this is what you wanted. It is the #9 post and the second pic. shows it. Same guy in both posts, but this one was a few months before the other one which I see you have visited. I guess he must have solved the problem with the rack installation. He has not answered my question yet. Technical Learned my Plymouth lesson... now a clip question
Definitely need to get the correct o-ring for those fittings. Close enough is no good. Anyone who can read a catalog at the parts store should be able to get you the right one. (There are fewer of those people working the counter everyday it seems) If it still leaks, you need to check the fitting and the landings for any dirt or damage. Depending on the fitting (Type-I, Type-II mostly) it is possible to overtighten as well. Good luck.
Gearbox steering gear has a 7" steering arm on the hub, rack and pinion cars use a 5" steering arm, and that is why some rack conversions lose some turning radius.
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