Is this too long of an e-bay description for the Roach Rod??

Use paragraphs.......too hard to read, makes me dizzy.

 

Sam, avoid selling the roach by charging for "White knuckle anti-freeze splash-in-your face joy rides" $10 a pop. you will make all the money you need for whatever you need it for and the roach will not have to leave the Strube driveway
just an idea. But, the ad does it well, a long ass description is what the roach deserves at the least. I hope you smack a home run with it! I'll run that auction up for you haha.

 

i think the amount to generate a irs form now is only 3000, dollars, just flags the govt to big amounts do to the patriot act from the terrorism ,

 

Tell me you are NOT going to use that pic of you and all your pals standing around the car.....

You HAVE to use THIS one.

PS. I sold my Henry J for 10K. The dude overnighted a cashiers check before he picked up the car. Nice to be able to bank the money while you still have the car, but it's kind of an act of trust on the buyers part...Still, that kind of cabbage made me nervous....

PPS. The Model A ran 13.0 @ 107 this year. Spun the tire (yes, one tire) the first 200 foot. We could have had one HELL of a drag race....

Good luck, -Abone.

 

[ QUOTE ]
MY NAME IS MBONGO KATUNGIE.

I AM THE HEAD CURATOR OF THE IMPERIAL RAMADA INN AUTO COLLECTION IN LAGOS NIGERIA. I AM VERY INTERESTED IN THE AUTOMBILE YOU HAVING ADVERTISED. I AM CERTAIN IT WOULD BE A VALUABLE AND PRIZED ADDITION TO OUR COLLECTION.

BEING THE THE ENVIABLE POSITION I AM IN TO BE DOING BUSINESS WITH YOU, SAMIYAM, IN DISPOSING OF CONSIDERABLE AMOUNTS OF UNCLAIMED BANK DEPOSITS OF THE CTIZEN'S BANK IN LAGOS, I WOULD BE WILLING TO FORWARD YOU A CASHIER'S CHECK FOR CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT IN ORDER TO COVER EXPENSES OF THE FINE AUTOMOBILE ALSO SHIPPING. ANY OVERCHARGE, WOULD YOU PLEASE SEND IN FORM OF MONEY ORDER?

IN ORDER OF CREDILBILTY I WOULD BE WILLING TO SEND CURRENT PICTURE OF MYSELF AND MY LOVELY ELIGIBLE SISTERS TO YOU IN FRONT OF THE IMPERIAL RAMADA COLECTION THAT I OVERSEE IN THE AREAS OF ACQUISITIONS, SO AS YOU WILL NOT QUESTION MY MOTIVES.

I HAVE HAD CONSIDERABLE DEALINGS WITH AMERICAN CAR SALESMEN, MANY OF WICH WERE RUDE AND SUGGESTED I DO NASTY THINGS WITH MY SISTER. SINCE I AM SURE YOU WILL REPLY TO ME ABOUT THIS VERY FAVORABLE DEAL, MAYBE YOU COULD CLEAR UP SOME TERMS TOLD TO ME BY PEOPLE I HAVE TRIED TO DO BUSINESS WITH.
1. I WAS REFERRED TO DO BUSINESS WITH THE GRAND VIZIER OF THE KU KLUX KLAN. TELL ME PLEASE, IS THIS SOME SORT OF CHARITY, OR SERVICE CLUB? THEY WERE WILLING TO SEND A BUSINESS DELEGATION TO MEET WITH ME. SUCH NICE PEOPLE.
2. WHAT IS A REDNECK? WE HAVE SOMETHING SIMILAR HERE IN NIGERIA, A CLOSE RELATIVE OF OUR RING-ASSED APE. SURELY THERE MUST BE A BETTER PEOPLE TO DO MY BUSINESS WITH.

AGAIN, SAMIYAM, PLEASE FORWARD TO ME PERSONAL INFORMATION SO AS I CAN PRECEDD WITH THIS ACQUISITION FOR OUR FINE AUTO COLLECTION.

SINCERELY, AND I HOPE YOUR FAMILY IS WELL,

MBONGO KATUNGIE

[/ QUOTE ]

hey sam ill give you a check for 100k and all you have to do is give 40k cash to the shipper

 

Sam, I agree with the others, save the long description for email to really interested buyers. A two or three paragraph description of the car should be sufficient for the auction. Offer more info and pictures on request.

Brian

 

DUDE ..I'M THE ORIGINAL eBAY PARTS PIMP ARENT I? I SAY USE THAT SHIT DUDE...THAT WAY YOU WONT HAVE DIPSHITS EMAILING YOU A THOUSAND QUESTIONS..UNLESS THEY ARE TARDS THAT DONT READ THE DESCRIPTION..WHY ARE YOU EVEN WASTING THIS MUCH TIME OVER IT? POST IT ALREADY GEEZ!

 

I rearranged a few things for continuity for ya.
See if ya like it, or not...

1923 Ford Hot Rod CRA Track Roadster not a Rat
Up for auction is a 1923 Ford Model T track styled roadster.
This car is patterned after the CRA “Roaring Roadsters” of the 50’s… a look that is characterized by the stance, wheel placement, and look and feel of the car.
Body
The body started out as a 1923 Ford Model T coupe. I found the body in the back of a dilapidated Ford Ranchero at Toluca Lake Bob’s Big Boy in the summer of 2000 the night before the LA Roadster’s show, and bought it there on the spot. (Two doors, two 1/4 panels and cowl sheet metal) The body panels were acid dipped and primed using DP90 primer. The 1” round tube that forms the “very Ford roadster looking” belt line was built using a homemade form. The floor structure was made using 1/8” steel angle and 3/4” plywood (good insulator from heat and noise). The rest of the bodies’ framework is made up of 1” square tubing and 16ga steel. There is a 1 3/4” .120 wall “hoop” at the firewall that supports the steering shaft and swing pedals. The rear deck lid was hand made and has a natural crown to it. It latches and is keyed. The seats are 914 Porsche seats with the ungodly headrests cut off. The steering wheel is a white vinyl wheel. The only gauges are vintage Stewart Warner water temp and oil pressure gauges… no speedometer or tach… ya drive this thing by the seat of your pants. I also installed three-point seat belts (the local fire chief here in town said “It’ll help us find the body”). The windshield posts are ’23 Ford roadster posts that have been chopped 8” or so. The nice thing about the cockpit of this car is that it is very roomy. I am 5’11” tall and weigh 210 pounds, and designed this car to fit me. If you are shorter, the seats will move forward as they are mounted on their original Porsche seat tracks. Also, my friend Tim who is 6’5” tall has driven this car, albeit looking over the windshield and his legs scrunched up a tad. Shoulder room is also not a problem, I am broad shouldered, and if I am in the car with another adult, there are usually six to eight inches between us. Another benefit to the way this car is set up is that the body sits on top of the frame and is not channeled. This allows you to sit IN the car and not ON it. In addition, the above-mentioned items, the car has Guide headlights and a custom fabricated track nose that was patterned after the Spalding brother’s #43 Track T and Barney Navarro’s T. The grille was fabricated out of a ’53 Chevy pickup cab roof, and I made a custom aluminum grill insert.
Chassis
I acquired an old T bucket frame that was built in a local welding shop in 1969. A teacher friend of mine taught the class, and the student who built the frame did not have the wherewithal to finish the project, so the frame sat until I got it from him. So, with that in mind I tried to get the nose as close to the cowl as possible, without having to notch the firewall for engine clearance. This was achieved by placing the (brand new, with new hoses) radiator behind the 8” Z’d custom made front cross member and in turn getting the engine mounted four blade fan 1” away from the radiator. Using a short Chevy water pump on the motor enabled me to get the look I was after. The front cross member kick-up, as well as the entire frame itself was constructed out of 1 1/2” x 3” .125 wall thickness square tubing. Welded into the kick-up are two machined bungs that mount the un-bent F-1 shock mounts. These bungs prevent the square tubing from collapsing. Front shocks are vintage NOS Gabriel hooded shocks that mount to the ’33 Ford axle with reinforced shock mounts. The steering box is a Dodge D-100 van box. The front brakes are ’56 Ford F-100 self energizing Bendix brakes mounted to ’39 “round” spindles. The front king pins and wheel bearings are new, as well as the brake drums and linings. In addition, all brake and fuel lines are held onto the frame with aircraft style ADEL clamps, evenly spaced, and held in place with 1/4” -20 fasteners that thread directly into the frame. All brake hoses were new when installed, as well as all brake hard lines. The 350 Chevy engine (more on this later) was mounted in the chassis using a genuine Hurst motor mount that was manufactured before the Big Block Chevy… the tell tale signs are in the fact that this “front mount” Hurst engine mount lacks the extra holes for the Big Block. The engine is mated to a Wedge Engineering 4130 scatter shield. Cast into this scatter shield that encases the clutch and flywheel 360 degrees is: “Wedge Engineering Co. 4130 ’55-’59 Corv Pass NHRA approved”. This leads me to believe that this bell housing/scatter shield was cast in 1959 and is probably no longer NHRA approved. Attached to the scatter shield is a Saginaw 4 speed manual transmission with Hurst 4 speed shifter. Next in line is the balanced ($200 new) drive shaft with new u-joints. The rear end is a 9” Ford that measures 61 1/4” wide, flange to flange, with 3.08:1 gears and a posi carrier. The transmission is held in place with a speedway saddle mount that is welded into the frame rails. The transmission can be removed with the engine still in place by taking out the transmission tunnel. The rear end is located with ’36 Ford wishbones (thanks Jay) that still function as a wishbone via a Model A front wishbone yoke and 3/4” heim joint. A mount is securely welded and braced to the trans cross member. This style of rear end location is superior to a ladder bar set up (for street car) because it locates the rear end, allows it to rotate torsionally and cycle vertically without ANY binding. Not to mention it provides awesome traction to the rear tires. In addition, this system does not require a pan-hard bar or track locater because it is triangulated. The rear spring is a ’48 Ford front spring that is supported by the original ’36 Ford wishbone spring mounts. The front wheels are desirable 1940 Ford (a one year only wheel) 4” wheels with Firestone 5.00 x 16” Deluxe Champion tires. The rear wheels are later 40’s Ford 4 1/2”ers with 7.00 x 16” Firestone deluxe champion tires. The wheels were sandblasted, checked for straightness, and painted white when the car was first built.
Engine
The engine… ah, the engine… despite what was written in Rod & Custom magazine, this engine is a rebuilt 350 small block Chevy that is disguised to look like a 60’s 283… so well that it fooled a friend of mine that restores Corvettes. The engine was built using a 350 Chevy block (thanks Steve). It has been bored .030 and has Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, cast rings, a Crane Cam, resized rods, new rod bolts, .010-.010 cast crank, Cloyes True Roller timing chain, The heads are 461 castings with stainless valves (1.94 1.50) and springs that match the cam, the installed height on the springs have been checked and hardened seats installed. In addition, the bowls have been blended and the intake valve un-shrouded (port work that makes a big difference in flow at low lift numbers). The rocker arms are long slot Summit brand rockers and push rods are Comp Cams units. The heads also have screw in studs. Great pains were taken to disguise this motor as a 283. The casting numbers were ground off and a 283 block was sacrificed in order to get the correct (for a 283) casting number in the block. The numbers were cut out and machined down… and then JB welded in place of the 350’s numbers. Up front the tell tale 283 “rib” was ground into the block near the stamped number ID pad. All the tin from a 283 was installed on the motor as well as the harmonic balancer and reconditioned water pump (a stock 283 one w/o the boss on the top) The valve covers are very early chrome-ribbed units. The ignition system consists of a Petronix kit in a reconditioned stock distributor and an MSD 6A box hidden under the dash. An MSD Blaster coil was also used and the distributor was set up on a Sun distributor machine to have the correct curve and advance for this motor. The intake… ah, the intake… the intake manifold was hand built by myself and two very good friends of mine. The basis for this very trick yet nostalgic manifold was a Weiand X-celerator single plane intake manifold. I then designed, and had machined on a CNC mill (thanks Phil), an aluminum plate that mounts two BOP Rochester 2G carburetors that flow 381cfm apiece… that’s 762 cfm, about right for a healthy 350. The manifold was hand ported inside and on the top to mount the plate. The plate was then welded onto the manifold (thanks Steve). After welding, all welds were ground down and the entire manifold was sand blasted to give it an “as cast” look. The carburetors were re-jetted, and the power valve springs massaged. This is an extremely well operating induction system.
Driving characteristics
The car starts on the first bump of the starter, gets 19mpg on the freeway if you drive it at 80mph, and has no off-idle flat spots. You can feel the linkage grab the second carburetor at half throttle with your foot… but the transition is smooth and you do not feel it “tip in.” In addition having EXCELLENT street manners, this car hauls a** at the drags. Wind noise is comparable to my friend’s ’32 Ford roadster at 75mph. I have had the car up to 125mph and it's solid (depends on the road you're on). This car also rides nice for as light as it is. Naturally, the bias ply tires let it “ride the ruts”, but if a guy was concerned about that, and not the vintage looks of this car, he could update to Coker’s new radial tires that look similar to bias ply’s. The car is also very nimble and well balanced, it does not bottom out under normal driving conditions, and you can drive it over speed bumps and up driveways as fast as you’d like.
Fame
During Rod & Custom Magazines’ Ego-Rama competition where this car placed 3rd overall out of 6 cars that were chosen by the readers to participate, the car ran a 13.07 at 106mph at the drags. (Best 60-foot time was 1.90 w/o hammering it off the line) That’s pretty impressive considering the car has a 4 speed and rear tires that are only 5 1/2” wide. The “altitude corrected” time for the temp and altitude there that day is down in the 12.70’s.
This car has also been in countless magazines such as Rod&Custom March 2002 pg. 60, Rod&Custom October 2002 pg. 86, Rod&Custom September2003 pg. 178, Rod&Custom April 2003 cover shot, pg. 40, 41, 46 and 54, Rod&Custom August 2003 “Build a hood for the Roach Rod” (Thanks to Steve at Industrial Chassis in Phoenix, AZ), Rod&Custom July 2003 pg. 110 “honorable mention”, Rod&Custom March 2003 pg. 130, The Premier issue of SHOP RAG magazine Summer 2002 pg. 13 &14, Car Culture Deluxe in the “Sam’s Motor Meltdown” article, several Goodguys Gazettes and was just recently in a little blurb about the Ego-Rama in Hot Rod Magazine. I would also like to thank the HAMB message board for their help in making my trip to the Ego-Rama competition a reality. The screen names of the people who had a direct impact (gas and beer money) on my trip are written on the dash.

TERMS OF SALE:
A non refundable $1000 deposit to my Pay Pal account is due within 48 hours of the end of this auction. With the entire deposit due to me IN CASH within 7 days of the close of the auction. Buyer to arrange ALL shipping details and pay for ALL shipping charges. Overseas Buyers must somehow arrange the CASH payment to me within 7 days of the auction’s close. I will trailer this car to either LA or San Francisco to a dock/shipper/container for $2.00 per mile, paid IN FULL, for BOTH DIRECTIONS prior to leaving my house. In addition, payment for this vehicle must be made BEFORE it leaves my garage to be delivered in any way, shape or form. When you bid on this item, you are entering a legal and binding contract and agree to pay according to the above terms and conditions. Don’t bid if you ain’t got the CASH.
If you are interested in this vehicle and have any further questions or would like to come by to look at it, or call me to ask questions, feel free to send me an e-mail through e-bay. No tire kickers or lookie-loos wanting advice or knowledge about personal projects please.

 

are you gonna put it in the hamb
classifieds first? or just try and pull in a chainer from goldbay?

 

It's about half way there. Still too short.

 

I think it's good, it shows that some heart and soul was put into it, that it's not some parts thrown together to make a buck off the "rat rod fad". A bonus to keeping it long is that it will probably weed out the deadbeats, because they're usually too stupid to understand that many words. Beautiful car, i've always loved it, hope it goes to someone who will appreciate it.

 

Good one Kirk!! hahahaha

 

I agree with KIRK! only you should post that in ALL CAPS...

and use this picture.

 

are you fuggin nuts??? i'm NOT reading ALL that!!! ...

 

and don' forget to include that the 'coon tail is NOT included!

good luck on the auction sam.


jerry

 

My son asked about that coons tail..I told him thats Sams car..and its for sale too!! he said cool!! Does it come with that cats tail!?!! hahaha!!

 

Plan9 was over tonight and we went and took some pics for the auction... and... AND he took a video of "Sam's last run"... should be up in a few days...
Sam.

 

I like long descriptions. I can't stand when you look at an auction for a 50 grand merc that says 1950 mercury, good condition, with 2 out of focus tiny pics.

 

Shortbus wrote: [quote I agree with KIRK! only you should post that in ALL CAPS...

and use this picture.



[/ QUOTE ] I would like a full jpg of that one.

Ok, now I'm just sayin...I think what you wrote was very informative and extremely discriptive, however WHAT are you really selling? Think about this for a while because the price you are going to get isn't tied to the fact that the 23 T body is tied to a z-d frame you got from a guy in a high school? Nor is it tied to a sneeky peet 350 that fooled everyone. (If you told a cool story it would be!) It's tied to what you did with the car. I think you should use some of your creativity and manufacture a story, a hot rod history. The way you wrote the description I had to start skimming half way through, I didn't even read it all because it didn't catch my attention. There has to be something about R&C, in fact it should be in the first paragraph. I honestly think you need an intro paragraph describing the feel of the car, the history, and a brief synopsis of what's "under the hood" Then go on in three supporting paragraphs describing what each of those things are and MAKE IT READ LIKE A STORY.

If you do that, you will get more interested readers and more bidders. Use what you earned to sell the car and help your family. Don't make it boring because boring is what you and the Roach Rod ARE NOT. Granted, you have to describe the car, and the description does have to be informative.

I think you guys are being too easy on sam. Hold off and send me all the info and I'll proofread it and I'm sure you could do a better job of writing, but you need to write a story that'll make the reader laugh cry and BUY. Once your done, send it to me and I'll tear it a new one, then you can rewrite. TAKE YOUR TIME AND DON'T RUSH IT THIS IS A BIG OPPORTUNITY

Matt

 

i can see both sides of the coin, theres a lot to read but its interesting... a house 4sale has a quick and dirty run down of what it is, the long detailed write up can be requested, or a real estate agent can give you the full skinny. but, youre no real estate agent and its a CAR.

IF i was to drop a large amount of money for *anything* id want to see a THOROUGH and detailed write up of the item.

problem with this hot rod are all the little details... you gotta spell them out, its bitchin.

SAM, the video RULES.... evn my mommy fuckin loved it hahah...ill get this thing digitized soon!

 

i have two words for ya...........HI SAM...........

 

When I first saw how long it was, I thought the first line would be..."We the people, in order to form a more perfect Union...."

 

i have ADD.. that's like reading a book to me. that ain't happening

 

uhhh 2004...

 

Seriously....how the heck did you drag this up nine years later?

 

Our e-bay feedback # is 3100 at 100% positive - We have found over the years that a VERY DETAILED description is best as it truly helps in avoiding issues down the road with the buyer so we think your "long" description is very much the right way to go

 

Or why...