I am going to pick up my new (to me) 1926 T coupe this morning. It is complete less engine, hood , and grille shell. It is in very good shape with only one rust through on the left rear corner. My plan is to install a very mild SBC/700r4. My 27 T roadster is a monster. I dont need another monster, just something to cruise in with decent MPGs. I know everybody says that the T frame is not strong enough for a V8. I built the frame for the 27 T roadster, but would like to use the original for this one. My question is . Can the frame be beefed up to be strong enough? Maybe box the frame with ¼ plate. Reinforce existing cross members. Maybe add cross members or a k member. Of course a newer front axle, newer rear end must be used. What do you think? Anybody done this?
It is soooo easy to replicate a "T" frame from box tubing, that is where I would start. It has been done may times as far as boxing on a stock frame, but just start fresh. I have a thread going called "Full fendered "T"s... Official maybe?" for inspiration.
Thanks guys! I intend to leave this one unchopped and full fendered. At least that's the plan for now. I'm not sure about the chop though. You don't see too many full fendered and chopped. Anybody got pictures of a mildly chopped, full fendered coupe?
Does the 4 in. extension affect the look of the placement of the wheels in the fenderwells? Are the rear wheels centered and the fronts moved forward or did you split it up?
With all the fuel crap and computers? Sure a V8 will fit. Folks have been doing it for years. Closed hood? No hood? Engine set back? You need to give more info.
I'm surprised how much that 4" makes. I does seem a bit long. I wonder how it would look without a chop? Still a sweet looking T.
Marcus1980. Love your car. The 4" in the front does seem to make a difference, but the wheels are still placed good in the wells. I like the extra length. Question: Why did you do the extension? I was thinking it made more room in the engine compartment. Did you still have to make a cutout in the firewall for the distrubutor?
My old T coupe was chopped 6". It had a model A frame from pete and jakes. we extended the frontend by about 3? inches I believe. whatever the difference between a T and A frame is. you can see it in the above pic, just forward of the running board. it's still a short wheelbase. never could get the rear coilovers adjusted to where it rode worth a shit. I cut a small cutout for the distributor in the firewall. didn't have enough room for a mechanical fan without putting the radiator and grill shell way too much forward. I had planned on making a hood for it but I traded it to Dan Collins for a 41 Buick.
Another option, don't shoot me poeple, is a v6, I know not traditional, but its shorter, no need to extend the front or cut the firewall. This one has a 3.8 Ford from a Mustang with the timing cover and water pump from a front wheel drive V6 which shortend the motor over 3 inches, has penty of power with good mileage
I have a 27 touring in which I am installing a Ford 3.0 SHO motor. Having done many previously I believe it easier to build a new frame out of square tubing than refab the original. If you really want to keep the original rails, full boxing with a K member will be more than sufficient. I have had an original frame and K member under my 29 sedan with a blown small block, 4 speed and vette rear end since 1979. Very similar and absolutely no problems dumping the clutch. Best of luck. Jim
Here is a 1926 Model T coupe I am building. Do not plan to chop. I am putting a 454 bbc with an 8-71 blower in it. I did build the frame out of 2x4 steel, Jaguar rear end shortened 5 3/4" and a Heights pinched front end.