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F100 door seals suck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ugotpk, Mar 26, 2013.

  1. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    Anyone have a good idea to seal the wind noise out on a 56 F100. None of these trucks had doors that fit very well. My doors are in the correct position. Seals are new and soft. Doors close tight. Still have wind noise. Please only answer if you really know what the hell you are talking about. And no I'm not going to weld my doors on. PK
     
  2. I don't know what the hell I'm talking about but who's door seals are you using? HRP
     
  3. On my '56 I thought it was my door seals, but turns out it was leaking around the vent windows.
     

  4. jstanotheidiot
    Joined: Oct 23, 2008
    Posts: 136

    jstanotheidiot
    Member

    Turn up the radio!
     
  5. ha ha ha same here !!!
     
  6. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    Dennis Carpenter Seals
     
  7. This!
     
  8. texasred
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,204

    texasred
    Member
    from Houston

    I used STEELE seals on my 53 and 56 with no problems. they just cost a little more than dennis carpenters
     
  9. If wind is blowing into the cab, then, yes, you have a problem with the seals or door alignment. If it's just wind noise, then it is a matter of aerodynamics.
    I hope I meet the criteria, of knowing what the hell I'm talking about, as public scorn causes me such emotional pain:p
     
  10. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    All my H.A.M.B. buddies. God you got to love um.
    No its not vents. It's not holes in the floor, It's not the cowl vent or the heater fan on to high, Just door seals....And no more out of you 55.
    P.S. it's not the wind from the inside either.
     
  11. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,312

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    You can also try adding a seal around the outer edge to fill the gap between door and body. All new cars and trucks have an outer seal for aerodynamics. There's no reason why you can't add that to your F100.
     
  12. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,209

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    That`s what I did. Added peel & stick 1/2 " to the door tops inside to seal `em off. Door alignment was spot on but could see gaps of light after installing seals. Stopped the rattle over bumps too.
     
  13. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    First thing you need to do is find the air leak.
    Pick up some "leak Trace powder" (it comes in a spray can...try autobody suppliers.) and apply it to the painted areas the rubber door seals contact. (Don't spray it on the seals!)
    It's a simple and harmless concentrated white powder.

    Very gently push the door closed (don't just slam the door) and then when you reopen the door you will see the white witness marks on the black door seals to tell where the seals are sealing properly, but more importantly where they aren't!
    What you choose to do to FIX the problems will depend on just what you find the issue to be.

    Don't forget to check for small open voids in the external areas of the doors/frames and also the cowl and roof areas as they can also cause some suprisingly loud wind noises to enter the cab.

    As Carl said...its all about aerodynamics and air flow so don't assume it isn't somewhere other than the seals.
    You could be very surprised when you finally discover just what the problem really was!
     
  14. i know i dont know what the hell im talking about, mines noisy and leaks air. i just crank the tunes up
     
  15. tiredford
    Joined: Apr 6, 2009
    Posts: 560

    tiredford
    Member
    from Mo.

    On my 53, the doors fit probably as good as they did when new (not perfect). I tried seals from DC and mid 50 and never did get it perfect. The wings are a trouble spot and the windshield. I tried everything on the windshield, including taking it to a glass shop and it still leaked water in the lower corners. Sorry, not much help, just my experence.
     
  16. RatPin
    Joined: Feb 12, 2009
    Posts: 574

    RatPin
    Member

    Louder pipes!
     
  17. I never thought they were that good when new.
     
  18. Fopelaez
    Joined: Sep 24, 2010
    Posts: 275

    Fopelaez
    Member

    You can use a compressed air nozzle and have some one blow air by the perimeter of the door, vent and maybe fender sides while you, from the inside, check where the leak is?
    Fernando
     
  19. 54 Chevy
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 362

    54 Chevy
    Member

    Check with Softseal they make several types of universal seals they may have one that is taller and will seal better.
     
  20. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,178

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    This is an old bodyman trick.

    When you align a panel, especially a DOOR, make 100% sure that its leading edge "tucks in" slightly from the panel in front of it. If it has even a small part that catches the air, it will whistle and make a mad customer. The trick is to make it subtle.

    If you want to test it first before committing to moving everything around, get in it, have someone put some 2" tape over the door gap, and go for a drive. See if the howling changes or goes away.
     
  21. ugotpk
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 503

    ugotpk
    Member

    That's a good idea Fernando. Thank you!
    II will check out your method Aerocolor. Thank you too.
     
  22. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    X2, this very important on a 56. Ive bent and twisted the window area ans stopped it. [Very subtle] Sometimes you have to live with it.
     
  23. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,089

    Dreddybear
    Member

    Send it over. I know how to fix it..

    [​IMG]
     
  24. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Window channels........

    4TTRUK
     
  25. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    I have the same suggestion as Gotgas, post #21 The majority of door leaks, windleaks or noise, come from the front or leading edge of the door being above the body line. This leading edge picks up the airflow and redirects it to the interior. In most case its a noise you hear rather than an air flow as the breeze is altered by the angle of the door jambs. Follow his suggestons about using painters tape on the door edge to determine if that is the source of the leak.
     
  26. SOCAL PETE
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,204

    SOCAL PETE
    Member
    from Ramona CA


    Or slow down.
     
  27. SOCAL PETE
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,204

    SOCAL PETE
    Member
    from Ramona CA

    that's funny as hell! Thanks for the laugh
     
  28. 32Tudor396
    Joined: Sep 14, 2010
    Posts: 181

    32Tudor396
    Member

    I used to drive a couple early sixties Merc pickups,A body man I know solved my problem by one knee on the door and a slight pull of the top front corner.It Didn't take much but it tightened the seal up.I have done a few times with good results.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013
  29. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 772

    Ralphies54
    Member

    I to had a huge amount of wind noise till i did as Aerocolor did and double weatherstriped the door jambs by using pealandstik 1/2" 1/2round sponge rubber I got from Restoration Supply Co. I applied it to the jamb area and it did the trick. Very quiet till the cowl vent is opened at speed,then all that air trying to get out makes a hell of a noise around the doors. End up using the A/C most of the time.
     

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