Sounds like you have a great plan going there. I wanted something a little more modern in my '40. If you ever want to upgrade some day, let me know. I have 292, T-5, 68 Nova 10 bolt.
-Chubby: Haha, thanks! I'm certainly one of the lucky ones. Don't know what I'd do without my grandpa! As far as the rear end goes, I chose the 1955-62 Chevy 1/2 ton because it is a 6 lug, has an open driveline and can be updated to a 3.38:1 ratio. 6 lug so I don't need new rims and drums. Open driveline for the Saginaw 4 speed. I thought the 55-57 passenger car rear was the best too, but after talking to Patrick's Antique Cars and Trucks I found out that the highest ratio for that rear end was only 3.55:1 and it was a torque tube which would need to be shortened to connect with the transmission. Don't know much about the Nova rear, but I think it's similar. As far as the Master Cylinder goes, absolutely! Bolting the old to the new is genius! Triple master cylinder! Sorry, I'm not sure what you're trying to say about the clutch hanging off the Master Cylinder... Thanks! -Halfdozen: Wow! Cool car! Bummer about the alignment, sorry to hear that... I'm sticking with the stock 6 lugs, but if I ever decide to change, I'll keep that in mind! Thanks! -Raprap: Man! I should have talked to you 4 months ago! If you really want to sell it, I've got a buddy that may be interested. Yeah I can't argue, as far as drivability goes, you can't beat the modern stuff. Thanks guys! Pete
hey Blackjack!! No the 55-57 chevy car rear end is an open drive shaft, and the "pumpkin" style rear is interchangeable from 1955-64 i have a set of 3:36 ??? gears and 3:08's are available. just want the true facts out there!!! OK if you look at your MC you will see the arms for the brake and clutch are mounted to the casting for the MC (1941 is??) if you update your MC you have no where to mount your peddles
Wow, I'm sorry! I must have mis-heard Patrick or something. Jeezo! I was way off! Sorry! Okay, the Master Cylinder part makes sense now. Thanks! Your friend used the origional master cylinder just for the mounts! That's a great idea! Kinda strange that someone doesn't make an adapter kit or something, but it's probably way cheeper to use the old one anyway. Hey, I'm really sorry about that. I should double check my info before I go broadcasting it... Thanks for dealing with my stupidity! Pete
I spent the last two days down at the big swap meet in Turlock, California looking for parts. Unfortunately, I got more that I bargained for. That was information. I talked to a bunch of different people about GMC straight sixes, intake options, head options, carburetor options and I've had so many changes in my plans I can hardly stand up straight... There doesn't seem to be a straight answer to the question of the big port/ small port question. Which one is best? Patrick's said that if I want any sort of performance out of the motor, the large port head is a must. I heard from a few other people that the big port head is a gass guzzeling, good for nothing, weak (cracks easy), money pit. I'm not sure what to do. I can't seem to get any ball park numbers on it either, horsepower wise. As far as other stuff goes, I picked up another Zenith 28 down draft Carburetor to match the one it came with. In fact however, I came home to find that the carburetor butterflies were on different sides of the carburetors, so I'll need a new top half for one of them. Here's some pictures... The one I had already looks like this one, with the choke linkage on the opposite side of the bowl: The one I bought looks like this one, parallel to the thicker diameter of the bowl: I suppose I could just leave it and only run the choke on 3 cylinders when I need it, but I think I can find parts. I don't mean to come across all pissed off and negative, because I'm really not! I met alot of great people this weekend. I bought some stuff I couldn't live without and alot of stuff I couldn't live WITH! I got names and numbers of people who have, or have access to just about everything I need. All I need to do is make up my mind on what I want to do! Just trying to make the right decision, hope I don't regret it! Pete
Sign up here: http://www.inliners.org/ and check out the forums. Lots of good info and knowledgeable people there.
you show great enthusiasm , but you need to get second opinions before spending your resources---that truck rear end is not going to make you happy when you get your car going--get it going speed parts can be added later----time is going to fly use it wisely ---good luck
Yep, if there is one thing I've learned from this project, it's to take everyone's advice with a grain of salt. It's expensive, but the knowledge gained and people met evens it out a little. Boy does it sting when you screw up though! Thanks! Pete
I know how you guys feel about this rear end, but I put the new ring gear and pinion in it this weekend. All that's left is for it to be sandblasted and painted. Pete
Rear end is sandblasted and painted. I also began the tear down of the Chevy itself. The torque tube is out (and in great shape--hit me up if you want it...) I also started work on the front end to yank the old "Blue Flame" Stovebolt 216! Pete
GMC 270 block is in! Front motor mounts made (although it needs some grinding and polishing). Body just about to fall off, we just need to fire up the old bull dozer and lift it off. (I'm skeptical about tying it to the rafters, run the risk of dropping a section of the roof.) Pete
Hey, Pete, really interesting project you've got going on there. If you haven't heard of them or got one yet, I suggest you get one of the old Chevy & GMC Hop Up books off of Amazon. As you say, Knowledge never hurts! How to Hop Up Chevy & GMC Engines by Roger Huntington Chevy, GMC & Buick Speed Manual by "California" Bill Fisher Both around $11.00 used to $16.00 new. They can help you navigate the differences between the different GMC heads. If I remember correctly, the 270H used a very odd piston shape to go along with the "sorta" hemi combustion chamber. Do you not have a stock 270 head for your block? In any case, the 270H was only used for a short while in the early '50's, and pretty much was discontinued after the 302 was introduced in '52 or '53. It seems that it shouldn't be too hard to locate a regular 270 or 302 head in Cali. I also wouldn't worry too much about guys that say the 302 is prone to cracking, at least not in a street driven hot rod. IIRC, HAMBer Rich Fox has fessed up to breaking a 302 head, but he was racing it on the salt. Not your everyday sort of use. Oh yeah, two more things. One, the GMC is not cheap to rebuild. Be ready for some sticker shock by the time you get it all back together. Also, have your crank bearing journals allign bored. Each crank bearing is a slightly different size, so they have to be bored one at a time. Find a machine shop that understands this, or better yet, has done some of these GMC's. Later, Kinky6
Kinky6: Thanks! Yeah, I have the "How to Hop Up Chevy and GMC Engines" book. It's the exact one my grandpa used when he rebuilt his in 1953! Oily finger prints and everything! I have heard a few guys quote "California" Bill Fischer's book. I'll snatch one from Amazon after I finish this post. As far as the head goes, I have the origional small port head from 1956. I actually just went and saw it's progress at the engine builder's today. The new larger valves are in, 45 degree seat angle, 3 angle grind. Some light porting and polishing has been done. It looks good. I did alot of poking around with the large port/ small port options, and for what I'm doing I found the small port seems like the best option for a low-output street car. It's the cheapest and I've already got it. If I'm not happy with it, I can always find a 302 D head. I don't think It'll be too much of a hassel sellling the small port if need be. From what I've seen, there is a market (be it small) for these small port heads. I'm not sure what your saying about having the "crank bearing journals allign bored." Sorry... I'm learning as I go. I had the machine shop check the balancing of the crankshaft, they said it was fine, so it really hasn't been touched. Also, before we pulled the crankshaft, we checked the roundness of the bushings that attach the rods to the crankshaft. They were almost perfect. The crankshaft is by no means old or heavily worn. Is this still necessary? Thanks so much for the advice! I really appreciate the input! Pete
Hey, Pete, with the allign bore, the machinist assures that each of the crank bearing bores are the correct size, and alligned parallel to each other. With the crank removed, the bearing caps are bolted in place, and a cutting tool makes certain that the outside diameter of the crank bearing surface is correct. Each of these is "stepped", or a slightly different size, going from front to back. This assures that your crank is spinning in "factory spec" bearing surfaces. Also, while you're having the head done, are you going with hardened seats for the exhaust valves? This is often done for older engines to compensate for not having lead in the unleaded gas. The lead was added to help minimize wear on the hotter exhaust valve and seat. Modern engines already have these hardened exh. seats. Later, Kinky6
Great project and I subscribed to your thread. Not sure when the picture was taken of your grand pa, his friend and his '40 but these were shot in '53. My dad had already totaled his '41 convert the year before at 16 and then picked up this coupe. Had it painted and did the interior, lowered it, dual carbs, and little else. I think he had cut outs on the dual exhaust which is what he messing with in the 2nd shot. He was a Marine by this time. I picked up a '48 coupe recently but what I reeeeeally wanted was a 40.
Kinky6: Thanks! Now that makes sense. I'll talk to my engine builder. He can measure the diameters and we can go from there. Like I said before, the crankshaft looks to be fairly un-worn, so it may not be necessary... I did have hardened seats put in. We had the exhaust seats melt in my dad's '52 Dodge Powerwagon. Pretty costly mistake. Hardened seats were the first things on my list! Thank you! flyin-t: Wow! Cool '40! The picture of my grandpa was taken in May of 1956. Congrats on the '48! Keep looking, good, unmolested '40s pop up every once and a while. Haha, mine was not one of them... Everywhere I go, half the bolts are missing! I can't complain though, it made the tear-down that much easier. Thanks for sharing! Burnnflamz: Thanks! Sorry, I do not have a spare grill. The only one I have is the one I pulled off the car. chevy54man, biscaynes: Thanks! Sorry, no pictures from today. But, we pulled the front end off the frame and proceeded to launch the coil springs across the yard to get them and the shocks off. I'm pondering the idea of using coilovers instead of buying new coils and having the old shocks rebuilt. They're going to cost like $300 bucks each to do... I'm going to post a new thread here in a few minutes asking about that. I also power washed the body and frame and sandblasted most of the frame. With any luck, we should be painting the frame by the end of the day! Thanks! Pete
Progress was slow yesterday. Lots of sandblasting in the hot California sun! Frame is done though! I still have a little left to do on the front end and on the leaf springs. I can now confidently say that we will be painting today. We have decided that we will buy some paint strippers to take the paint off the body. I'm just too worried about blowing all the lead filling out of the body joints. It's much more gentle. Also, while i was off creating the second dust bowl, my grandpa made some new floor boards. They look great! Lots left to do! Thanks! Pete
Well, we finished sandblasting and painted the frame today. Good thing too, because I'm getting pretty sick of sucking dust all day. Three days straight is enough for me. Anyhow, everything is painted, so on to phase two: the rebuild! Woohoo! Will be placing some pretty hefty orders to a few catalogs here pretty quick. My mattress is going to loose most of its stuffing. Movin' right along! Pete
Today was a big day! We located one of three acid striping places in California! (Nor Cal Stripping in Windsor, California if anyone is interested- really nice people- 707-838-9470.) Everything is up there, so we got rid of that bunch of junk. Will start rebuilding the frame here pretty quick. The engine is still at the builders being done, so we're still stalled out on that. I might start working on building a set of coil-overs for the front end. We may start working on the upholstery also. Who knows... We've got lots to do! Thanks! Pete
Bromigo. these cars are killer just check out my threads and look and mine there a beaut. I have a 3spd floor conversion i found on ebay. It was a vintage NOS kit. ill look at the name and find out.
Cool! Will do! Haha, lucky score! I'd been searching for months! Please do, I'd like to know. Thank you! I'll try to keep this thing as up do date as I can. Thanks! Pete
The Jalopy Journal
