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Buiding your own motor mounts...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pugly, Mar 14, 2013.

  1. Pugly
    Joined: Jan 17, 2010
    Posts: 70

    Pugly
    Member

    I am in way over my head in this Studebaker project, but we got the old Lark engine pulled and I have a spare SBC (i know, another F'n small block chevy) and I need to mock up something for mounts.

    The closest thing I have ever done to this is use one of those 55 chevy side mount kits.

    Anyway, I got it sitting in there, with way to much angle. I need to lower the front.. The trans is all the way up, But here are some pictures... If someone could post some pictures of what they have mocked up maybe I can get an idea of where to go.

    [​IMG]
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    Also, what's he best way to make sure it's centered? I got a bare block and trans case.. do I just run a string down the center and watch where it winds up?
     
  2. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Youre about where I was at to build my mounts. Measure about 8 million times off from a few places on the bloc and frame. Once its centered up to where you like start building.

    Putting the 302 in my unibody i got some rectangle tube and flat steel and a set of 302 mustang mounts. Bolted the mounts onto the motor, and built out from the motor to the frame. One step at a time and its not that bad. Dont over think it.
     
  3. fatkoop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2009
    Posts: 713

    fatkoop
    Member

    Measure from the crank center to the same point on both sides of the chassis. Same measurement, engine is centered. Get the chassis sitting at the rake you want it to be when finished, then point the ass end of the engine down 5-10 degrees and you'll be pretty close if you're using a carb. Now figure out where your radiator, fan, waterpump etc. belong, and leave about 3/4-1 inch from the back of the radiator to the front of the fan. This is fairly close to where the engine belongs. Build mounts to keep it there.
     
  4. Pugly
    Joined: Jan 17, 2010
    Posts: 70

    Pugly
    Member

    Really? 5-10 degrees down?

    Heck I am sitting at 6.5 right now. I thought it needed to be around 2-3*

    [​IMG]
     

  5. mramc1
    Joined: May 26, 2006
    Posts: 423

    mramc1
    Member

    You really should have a distributor stuck in the block to make sure you clear the fire wall. Also slap the heads and intake on. Then you will be sure the angle of the carb mounting surface is at 0 degrees. Make sure the car is at ride height/rake too.
     

  6. I'm with you on this. I always shoot for about 3degrees.
     
  7. I like to have the intake on the engine and have a level sitting on the carburetor mounting surface,,you will want the carburetor level,the rest will take care of itself.

    Get your center line and and fabricate your mounts. HRP
     
  8. jimstro16
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 238

    jimstro16
    Member

    Not only have the distributor in but make sure it will come back out and clear the firewall after finding the engine location you want.
     
  9. TrannyMan
    Joined: Dec 3, 2005
    Posts: 473

    TrannyMan
    Member

    I was a little worried about the distributor also.. there is a swap meet this weekend and I will try to pick one up for measuring. I have the engine as far forward as I think feasible, it's set at 10" from the water pump mounting surface to the radiator.

    I am going to try and find a cross-member and mounts at the swap meet also, I got a intake I can lay on there...

    Maybe I am just over thinking this and making it harder than it really is. I got a 55 Chevy that I used one of those V8 kits on and never realized it's sitting at the wrong angle. It vibrates really bad over 70mph. I don't want this one vibrating.
     
  10. 327Eric
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,125

    327Eric
    Member

    I used angle Iron, welded to the frame rails, and some old mounts that were on a jeep conversion, with the stock 55 chevy rubber biscuits to mount the 327 in my 55 coupe. basically, side mounts that used the biscuits. One thing I learned, was that in the Stude cars, the engine is offset to the passenger side to clear the weird steering box. I dont know If the trucks are the same, but you should verify before you go too much further.
     
  11. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,659

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    See if you can buy a set of stock mounts for a 64-65 Canadian made Studebaker. They used Chev engines, V8 and six. The chassis should be practically the same as your car. They did not change much after 1953. I don't know who the Studebaker parts specialists are but they should have them.
     

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