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Projects 52 Dodge B3B Hemi Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 70chall440, Oct 10, 2012.

  1. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    here I am C channeling the frame, I will make new bump stop mounts and reuse the originals which are acutally in very good shape and lend themselves to easy adaption to what I am doing.
     

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  2. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    got them all welded in, still need to plate the inside, build a shock cross member, then take it all apart and clean it all up.
     

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  3. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Hopefully I will get home soon and get back to work. My kid is graduating basic training so I get to go back to Ft Benning... memories... (not real good ones).
     
  4. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    The one thing I need to figure out length of steering column to run. I am going to install a tilt wheel, but I need to figure out what length will work well. I suppose once I get the front suspension and engine mocked up it will become clear but I would love to have something that is close so I don't have to wait on it.
     
  5. Apittslife
    Joined: Nov 16, 2012
    Posts: 70

    Apittslife
    Member


    I used the Dakota column, It can be lenghtened or shortened easily enough ( I had to shorten mine, as I am using the Dakota Firewall & Floor ).
    My reason for using it is because I am thrifty, & It has everything but the Headlight on / off switch on the column.
     
  6. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    i would do just that but the one I have is not a tilt and I would really like a tilt.
     
  7. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    I have to apologize for being absent for so long, after I got back from my last trip I embarked on yet another project; extending and rennovating my shop. In the middle of that I decided I needed a Diesel Dually so I went on the hunt for that. So far, I have the shop almost done; rerunning the air lines now and then perhaps a shelve for some parts and then put it all back together (put all my crap away). I did find a truck; 98 Dodge 3500 2WD dually. it wasnt a bad deal but like most "used" vehicles I am finding a lot of issues that need attention. It never ceases to amaze me how poorly prople take care of their vehicles and yet think they are almost perfect. In this case, it is mainly a lot of small issues that are perhaps personal perference, but bug the crap out of me.

    Hopefully I can get back to the 52 soon. I have the engine painted and am reassembling it. Also, I am about finished with the rear end, then it is on to the front suspension and engine/trans install.
     
  8. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    Here are pics of my current "distractions"
     

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  9. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Well, its been awhile since I posted or able to work on the 52 for that matter. The 98 Diesel ate up some time as did work, however I was able to get back to the 52 recently and made some progress (regress if you please...).

    I finished the rear end as much as I can until I get the engine and trans installed but it looks like it will work out well. Today I got the engine and trans out of the 52 and was able to get the front clip cut off the 88 Dak and the 52. So, now the real fun begins... Here are a few pics.
     

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  10. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 214

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Thanks for the pics. It looks like the sub-frame perfectly matches the original '52 frame. Keep the pics coming on this. I am wanting to do the same to my '55 and this would be very helpful.
    Steve-
     
  11. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,199

    73RR
    Member

    Geeesh...get back to work and quit screwing around...:p you have a truck to build.
    More pictures please.

    .
     
  12. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    The Dak frame is close but I have to decide how to connect it all. I don't have a lot of space to work with and I need to figure out how to make it strong. As I mentioned, the Dak frame is about 3" wider than the 52, so I will have 1.5" on each side overhang. My intention is to cut the Dak frame so it fits to the outside of the 52, then box the inside of the frame rails overlapping the 52 back probably a foot or so. I will reinforce the frame to frame contact before boxing it al it. I would hate to have it break....

    I will post more pics as I can. I have a lot, just not sure what is interesting. I will put some of the rearend on this one.
     

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  13. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Ok, let me try this again (I just wrote all of this and it wouldn't go)
     
  14. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Ok, so now that I know it works, here it goes.

    I have a situation I need some assistance with. the issue I have is with the new front clip. During mock up I realized that I needed to pay attention to the caster, therefore I refreshed my memory about what I needed ad went and looked at the clip. Seeing that everyone/thing states you need between 1-6 degrees of positive caster, I looked at the clop to see where it was. When mocked up in what "appears" to be the correct attitude for the clip and frame (essentially level), the clip definitely shows negative caster. When I move the clip so that it has positive caster, it is definitely pointed up in the front (where the front bumper would attach).

    Looking at the pictures of the Dak frame pre-cut, it appears to be fairly level to the point where I cut it off. I selected this point (actually the attachment point is about 5" forward of where I cut it off) because it was somewhat level. the frame of the 52 is straight and level, so I "thought" it would be an relatively simple issue.

    So, where I am in this is either the Dak originally had negative caster for some reason or I am just not seeing things correctly. I have a buddy coming over for a second set of eyes this week so perhaps I will resolve this soon locally. Perhaps there is enough adjustment in the Dak suspension to make it neutral or slightly positive but it sure doesn't look like it.

    I will post some pics so readers have an idea of what I am talking about. I appreciate any assistance, constructive comments and general guidance.
     
  15. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Warning... I may have answered my own question. After looking at it more closely, I think I am there or close to it. I will post some pictures.
     
  16. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    ok here are some pics
     

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  17. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    and a few more.
     

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  18. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    I know this is a little hard to see, but once I lined up the frame and got a light onto the ball joints I think I am very close. I have to make a jig for the 52 to get it truly level and then line everything up.

    The white line that is visible is a cut line, essentially the Dak clip is about 5" too far out and I will cut the 52 frame back another 5" to get it where I need it. There will be some creative boxing going on to make it "flow" from one frame to the other. Once I confirm the caster and alignment issues, I will "burn" it in and begin to reinforce it and box it in.
     
  19. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,199

    73RR
    Member

    Good the see/hear that you have it sorted out.



    Sua Sponte
     
  20. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    don't know it is sorted out... but I think I am on track. guess we will see... :)
     
  21. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    well for better or worse, the front end is in.
     

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  22. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    Next up is the engine/trans mock up.
     
  23. Apittslife
    Joined: Nov 16, 2012
    Posts: 70

    Apittslife
    Member

    Good job,
    As long as you have the wheelbase where it is suppose to be, you will have to recess the firewall behind the engine, a minimum of 4 inches.
    (The 4 inches brings the firewall to where it would be for the Dakota)
     
  24. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    I am looking at using the firewall and perhaps a part of the floor from the Dakota, in fact I just moved the cab to the front of my shop so I can get the plasma on it.
     
  25. Very good progress! I can't wait to see how you get the front clip mounted and fitting right. I'm having some real trouble getting the gaps right on mine and everything even the mounts are stock!
     
  26. Apittslife
    Joined: Nov 16, 2012
    Posts: 70

    Apittslife
    Member

    Several people have done that, & ran the Dakota floor up to the riser for the stock seat. So they had a transmission tunnel, & it gives you the ability to use the Dakota brake system. you can also reuse most of the Dakota wiring harness.
     
  27. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    I am using a very simple street rod wiring system which works well. I went to the Dak front end for the suspension, brakes and steering.

    getting the Hemi is there will be a challenge, I did a trial fit today and as you noted the firewall will have to move; how much remains to be seen. Right now, if I were to mount the engine with the motor mounts directly over the front cross member, the back 1/3rd of the valve covers would be inside the truck... LOL. Oh, well, I have a plasma and a welder so I am sure I can get it in there.
     
  28. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
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    what do you mean "the gaps", what gaps are you referring to?
     
  29. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,534

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    Well, its a little late now, but i would have cut the Dakota frame behind the trans crossmember, where it leveled out, and trimmed back the 52 frame.

    When I put the 360 in my 54, the back of the heads were about even with the bottom of the dash. 6" deep and width of the motor wide. Foot room would have been pretty limited for a center rider. With the 50, I raised the cab to clear the 360 in there, but that was OK because it was a 4x4.

    I would have thought the Dakota would have fit much better because the motor is centered over the suspension much like the 50s trucks were, what year frame are you using? Gene
     
  30. 70chall440
    Joined: Jul 29, 2011
    Posts: 572

    70chall440
    Member

    The Dakota I used was a 88. I connected the front cross member/suspension of the Dakota right where the frame comes out from underneath the 52, basically where I could get to it easily. That puts the Wheels 21" from the forward most body mount. That will center them in the wheel well. The problem is that the Hemi is slightly long in the sense that in order to get the rear sump of behind the cross member, it puts the valve covers under the dash.

    So, my options as I see it are as follows;

    1. cut out the firewall (have to cut some regardless) and mount the engine, then rebuild the firewall. As mentioned, this will put the back of the engine under the dash which will make maintenance or perhaps removal later a little bit of a pain.

    2. Cut the firewall some, mount the engine more forward but high so that the oil pan basically will be above the cross member. This would put the engine in a better position, however steering and exhaust will be an issue.
     

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