O.K., so I've searched "shrinking", "stretching" etc., and found help on fixing compound curves, etc., but I don't know if that applies here. So I thought I'd try something different, which is ASK before I try it my way with regrets. What a concept! So I have a four piece hood, '37 ford, which overall is in great shape. The problem is on the "flat" part of the driver's side, in front, that would fit to the grill shell. It's puckered up and won't lay flat. I used a hammer/dolly, and is a bit better, but not near flat. Hit it a few times with a shrinking dolly, maybe a little better, but I've stopped before I mess it up! It's hard to tell by the pics.. I put a piece of metal along the edge as a reference point to show better in pic. So... Best way to approach this without overworking/ ruining it?
Hey, Yeah, it looks like you're gonna need at least a couple good shrinks in that area! Can you compair it to the grill shell to figger out just how much you'll need? I'd probably land my first shrink at the back of the deepest part of the stretch, and work out. This way you are pulling the stretched metal towards the edge, and not trapping floppy metal behind your shrink. Another method would be to use a Lancaster type shrinker, and feed the panel in as deep as possible, starting at the outer edges and shrinking toards the center.Try and avoid as much on dolly hammering as possible, and either a torch or a disc could be used on this.
Yes it is a truck. I think I'll get some glide coat and block it, try some pics with different light angles so it will show up better in the pics
I've been bouncing around on my build last couple of weeks. light duty, with what I have avail. in parts now. So about two weeks ago, I was on my way to pick up some parts in my ex's blazer ( mistake #1) when I was hit by a car. they finally stopped, and luckily so did a couple of witnesses. After trying to understand him (speak English mo.fo.!), I decided it best to call the police. After a minute or so, he gets in his car and tried to bail. I reached in and grabbed the keys (mistake #2!), at which point he sliced my left hand with a bottle. so I've been sanding with the right hand. I'm more pissed about not working on the trucked, then getting sliced. That's kind of cool on the resume. I thought back to what Grand Master once told me to do in that situation, "Run fast Grasshopper!"
Seems a lancaster/eckold mechanical shrinker would lick this in about two minutes. Then, again, I usually like to do things the easy way. . .
Just checked my tool box. Couldn't find a lancaster/eckold mechanical shrinker. Checked the junk box too.
try taking a pair of long nose pliers and gently 'tweak' the edge of the panel (not quite enough to kink it) and see if the flip /flop in the panel seems to improve. If it does then your going to have to put a few deftly placed shrinks into the panel. how much hot shrinking have you done before?
I've done zero shrinking. Seen Sunchaser for years at the Good Guys, thought it was a gimmick. I'll look on ebay for a disk. I guess it's time to give it a try.
so I've watched a few videos on shrinking discs, and also have read various posts/replies on the subject here on the Hamb. Do I cool with water or air? Do I cool at all... Anyone use the 4.5" DeWalt disc?
Hahaha. Maybe a friend then? They really are a very handy tool to have around. As for heat shrinking, whether disc or torch, some cool with water or air, some say not to. I use water in a spry bottle then wipe up with a rag.
As for the " lancaster/eckold mechanical shrinker", I have no idea what it is, and when I googled it I got a few dead links, and pages that were forums. Couldn't even get a decent pic of one.
Search "stretcher shrinker" or something along those lines. Avoid Eastwood. I had one and even after going through it a couple times, it still didn't work right.
I fixed a 34 Ford car hood with the same problem. I used a torch and water to shrink the edge area. The hardest part is to pick the right spot to shrink. If you can find the stretched spot, shrink there, small spot at a time. In the picture I think I can see small dents, start there.
Hey, Before you shrink anything, you'd better figger out just what's stretched and what isn't! Give this a try- lay the panel down on a work bench with the inside up. Whyle holding the panel down with one hand, press the highest area of the bent area down, and watch just where the panel moves the most. Look for area/s that flex and those that don't. The area/s that flex the most, and are the highest are probably where you'll need to land your first shrink. On badly stretched metal I've always used a torch, hammer & dolly and a wet rag, but I'm not from the 21st century You can use whatever you have the most experience with, in your case nada! A 4.5 disc on a DeWalt will shrink, but not as fast as a 7''-9'' spnnin @6K! inna pinch I've used dead 60 grit closed coat grinding discs on a 9'' on aluminum & asian vehicles, to produce enough friction for a good shrink. I' wouldn't attempt a " Tuck " shrink until you've mastered that method of shrinking on some scrap panels first. From what I've heard of Sunchaser of late, I wouldn't walk across the street to piss on him if he were on fire " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
^^^ that could work ...I'll add... in order to figure out if it needs to be stretched or shrunk where the metal 'hinges' , take a oxy/acet torch and just wave it over the panel in that area. If the buckle gets worse - it needs shrinks. If the panel relaxes and lays flatter -it needs streched in that area.
Sounds good. I can se it now... "This hood edge is stretched, needs to be shrunk." *shrinks edge in mechanical shrinker* "Now it's fixed." *collects super-awesome thousand-dollar Baileigh machine as prize for amazing tech* Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I'll lay it out on the bench and give it a closer look, and try a couple of spots (slowly) with the torch since I have one. Gonna wait til tomorrow though, I think I felt a stitch pop in my hand.
I've used a wet rag & bucket and also tried a windex squirt-bottle full of water. The rag & bucket method is more effective, but also more messy.
I use air. Water tends to harden the metal a bit. Most everything I work on is bare metal, so the mess doesn't work for me either. You can also GENTLY tap the high areas when you use a disk.
So I bought a 4.5" shrink disc last week. Got it looking better but it's still not right and I don't want to beat it to death. Thought about maybe folding over a 1/4"-3/8" lip on a brake (actually both sides so they'd match). Since I'm not running fenders, I think I could bump the grill back 3/8"-1/2" and you wouldn't notice. It would clean up the edge and stop any flexing. This is last resort kinda stuff. I get alot of weird ideas, so this might be one of those really bad ones that my broken brain hasn't filtered out. Another option is to see if there is anyone in the Sacramento/S.F. area that has one of those lancaster/eckold mechanical shrinker things and maybe willing to spend a few minutes helping me out if I brought it over. Thanks
I'm pretty sure there are several fellas in your area that would be able to help get your hood sides straight, even if they didn't have a mechanical shrinker. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
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