Skips So-Cal LSR Fuel/Gas Roadster

Skip Pipes · Mar 12, 2013

Some of my friends (I think I have 1 somewhere) from the HA/GR section are wondering where I slipped off to after I sold my HA/GR.
I actually started this car before the HA/GR and its been under construction since late 2008. Money has been the real showstopper lengthening the build, however its now about 90% done. If Im diligent I might make it to El Mirage this year.
I started with a Poli-Form body and made the rails myself. My original intention was to run a blown BBC but the truth is I couldnt afford a proper engine combination. So I made the hard decision to go a different (smaller, less expensive) engine route (non traditional). This was way before SCTA created the new American Gas Roadster class (Damn). If I werent so invested in this engine combo Id give the new engine class a serious look. Nonetheless, heres where Im at with the construction. FWIW - when Im done with this engine combo I can easily revert back to a traditional engine.

Skip Pipes · Mar 12, 2013

<style>  </style> This is up to date work. Im roughing in the reverse curve for the windshield and then the parachute enclosure.

dragsled · Mar 12, 2013

Great another thread I 'll have to watch, Subcribed,,, Car looks Great!! Tim Jones

Drewfus · Mar 12, 2013

looking good, great to see you're still chipping away...

Cheers,

Drewfus

Tman · Mar 12, 2013

Thanks for posting it over here Skip. I was re-reading your thread on landracing.com about your turbo app since we are going boosted now as well.

Skip Pipes · Mar 12, 2013

Drewfus - Thanks
Tman - You'll like the turbo when you get it sorted out!

Here I'm roughing the paper form for the parachute cover. Then here is the aluminum bent up and rougher in. I'll final trim it to shape with snips and file the edges after I set the Dzus tabs. I saved the fiberglass cutouts so I can trim them up and reinstall them to fill the gaps I created to the parachute cover. I REALLY hate fiberglass work!

In a couple of weeks this should be of the table for final welding.

Skip

good captian · Mar 12, 2013

Looks really good mate ,what engine are you running??

mctim64 · Mar 12, 2013

Looks good! Hope to see you out at Elmo this year.

Skip Pipes · Mar 12, 2013

<style>  </style> Good Captian Its a 2JZ-GTE
Mctin64 I seriously love your Unibody, follwed the build and have watched you run Elmo.
As for the roadster still a lot of work to do but Im looking forward to running Elmo and sorting out the roadster.
Skip Pipes

mctim64 · Mar 13, 2013

Skip Pipes said: ↑

<STYLE>  </STYLE> Good Captian Its a 2JZ-GTE
Click to expand...

That should move it along nicely.

Tman · Mar 13, 2013

Skip, do you have any more detailed shots of your radiator in a tank? Other than what I have seen.

Derek Mitchell · Mar 13, 2013

Thats an awesome looking car. Keep poking away, I'd like to see it at El Mirage this year.

Skip Pipes · Mar 13, 2013

What are you looking for in pics? I'll shoot what you need and send them to you.

Skip

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Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

Hi Trent,

When I set out to build my car the goal was to make it handle as much horsepower as I could throw at it. The same applies to the cooling system. So, I got the largest AFCO double pass radiator I could order that would fit in the car. I needed to stay below 28 tall.

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

<style>  </style> Then I mocked up the tank length/width, keeping in mind Id have to install the radiator in the tank and get it to line up with the transfer fittings to get the radiator water outside the tank.

Acme Speed Shop · Mar 14, 2013

Good to see you are still out there Skip. Hope to see you sometime. BTW, I moved my shop so call me when you are around and I'll tell you where we are.

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

<style>  </style> I also put a bilge pump in the tank to circulate the water around the outside of the radiator to ward off hot spots. The pump is plumbed to a spray bar, which is nothing more than PVC with holes drilled in it to trickle water over the top of the radiator.

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

<style>  </style> I wanted the radiator to be a drop-in install into the tank, so I used 2 pieces a angle, back to back to catch the bottom radiator mount. Then I moved the in/out necks to the ends of the radiator tank.

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

<style>  </style> I built these fittings to be installed on the outside of the tank and they pass through to the firewall fittings, then the engine.
The top of the tank is flat plate and I created the mating edge from angle to bolt to. The large fuel cell cap is so I can get my hand inside the tank to get to the radiator cap.

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

Hi John,

<style>  </style> You must be clairvoyant. I was cleaning up the shop and found the loading ramps you loaned me. I want to get them back to you so Ill call tomorrow.
Skip

Tman · Mar 14, 2013

Thanks Skip, looks like it will work well. I think I am adding the pump and spray bar after studying yours................IF I have room. Do you plan on running just water? Or adding some ice?

Skip Pipes · Mar 14, 2013

Initially, I don't plan on running ice. If I turn the boost way up I may need it. I'm on the hunt for a non-flammable coolant with good documentation that I can get through tech. Otherwise, it's water.

Jalopy Joker · Mar 14, 2013

Very Cool!

Tman · Mar 16, 2013

Skip Pipes said: ↑

<STYLE>  </STYLE> I also put a bilge pump in the tank to circulate the water around the outside of the radiator to ward off hot spots. The pump is plumbed to a spray bar, which is nothing more than PVC with holes drilled in it to trickle water over the top of the radiator.
Click to expand...

I didn't know it but had a hunch, I just ordered that same bilge pump from Overtons! Thanks again Skip!

PS, let me know if you find a coolant!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tman · Mar 16, 2013

New question Skip, with that cooling system are you running a puke tank/recovery tank and where are you mounting it?

Skip Pipes · Mar 16, 2013

I am running a puke tank outside of the main tank. I want it in the engine compartment, however, I may be forced to hang it on the main tank. It's a $30 wedge shaped import tank with a sighting tube to check the fluid level. it's got a cheap radiator cap that I'll cut off and weld a proper cap mount back on. I'll shoot a pic when I get in the shop later today.

Also, I'm going to run a minimum of 2 main tank vent tubes (1.00" ID each) from the top of the main water tank out to the rear of the car, past the rear axle and to the back edge of the frame. This way if I puke an engine or head gasket the total cooling system can vent to the outside of the car, and not on me.

There have been some great stories of blown head gaskets that caused lots of damage to unpressurized water tanks. This main tank has a pressurized system in it and if something lets go I want the pressure to have a path to the outside of the car.

Skip

Tman · Mar 16, 2013

Ah yes, the vent!

I am lucky that our tank is a few feet behind me and the engine.

Thanks again, just planning things during some down time at work!

Tman · Mar 19, 2013

Skip Pipes said: ↑

<STYLE>  </STYLE> I built these fittings to be installed on the outside of the tank and they pass through to the firewall fittings, then the engine.
The top of the tank is flat plate and I created the mating edge from angle to bolt to. The large fuel cell cap is so I can get my hand inside the tank to get to the radiator cap.
Click to expand...

Skip, did you roll the bead in those nipples yourself? I need some and do not have the fancy bead roller for tubing.

Skip Pipes · Mar 19, 2013

I didn't on these. I used rolled tubes from Speedway Motors and chop them in half and weld them to both sides of the plate. For the bends I go to Burns Stainless as I really like their material and workmanship and put the rolls in myself. I made a bead tool from a vice grip that really was designed for the larger boost tubes.

Skip

Tman · Mar 19, 2013

Thanks Skip! AGAIN!

Skips So-Cal LSR Fuel/Gas Roadster

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Skips So-Cal LSR Fuel/Gas Roadster

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