Does anyone know the torque spec for the pinion flange? I neglected to make a scratch mark on the 1 1/8 nut when I spun it off the pinion flange of my Chevy 12 bolt rear. Now I'm sticking a new pinion seal into it to replace the old one which developed a leak from sitting still for many years. The current posi rear end is perfect except for the grease drip out the pinion seal so I'm hoping not to toast it.
Its high, but your SUPPOSED to tighten it to a certain extent to mash the crush sleeve and have a minimum pre-load on the pinion.....with the carrier out of the housing. Give is about 80 and call er done......
Put the yoke on then pinion nut. Crank that baby down til you see yoke has slipped in almost to where it should be. If you watch the Yoke it will tell you most of what you need to know. Once it has reached it's seated point you need to stop. Grab the yoke and check your amount of play. Is there little or some? Now tighten it a bit more based on the play. Once play has stopped you then want to add ( use your best judgement) 1/2 turn or so to the nut. Your done. Move on and good luck
Clean the threads and some lock tite and snug down tell now play if you go to far in will smoke the pinion bearings
Like you said,mark the pinion and nut before removal.... The preload is lost now...The proper way is to pull the axles,drop out the carrier keeping the shims in order.Then do the pinion preload..... But if the pinion nut threads on easily you might be able to feel when it tightens up against the crush sleeve. If the preload is light the axle will whine on coast....then tighten it a bit more
Always replace the sleeve and nut with new ones Very cheap insurance. Pre-crush the sleeve .020 over, install bearings and seal, tighten new nut to above specs.
The Jalopy Journal
