Glad to see you weathered the spell. We have ALL been thru it, brother. The important thing is that you have come out on the other side and are back to turning wrenches. Git 'R Dun!
I need a real mechanic opinion as it affects my 47 with the 86 chevy drive train as well as my daily driver which is a 85 chevy Since i dont get emissions anymore is it practical or should i say better for the car to hollow out the cat and eliminate the smog pump to let the car breath better or leave the cat in? Which would give better gas mileage? Is the cat a restricter on the engine? I want to make the engine bay on both cars a little less crowded. Will the computer on the 47 adjust itself since i already removed the smog due to clearance issue with the lower radiator hose or am i going to have to install it some how to get it running the way its supposed to run? Oh by the way, missed you guys Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Ok reused existing battery tray and mounted to firewall and going to fab a support bracket from the old gas tank mount. Key word here is recycle recycle recycle. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Ok bracket welded to tray, primer drying. Have to pick up some black paint and project battery tray is complete. Oh this hamb app for the iphone LOVE It. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Missed you, too! The smog pump does nothing except absorb horsepower, which is another way of removing money from your wallet. It serves no purpose. In states with visual inspections and inspectors who know what they are looking for, people have been known to gut the smog pump (removing the vanes) so that it is just a shaft, therefore absorbing minimal power. In your state, there is no longer an emissions inspection requirement for vehicles that old, so remove it and don't worry. The same thing goes for your cats. Only the newest cars, with sensors bith upstream and downstream of the cat, can tell if a cat is gutted. Your vehicles only had sensors upstream of the cat. Therefore, your computers can not tell if the cat is even there or if is fell off at that last pothole. You might not pass emissions without a functioning cat, but again that is not an issue for you. Your computer will do its happy thing without a smog pump or cat. Note that gutted cats are not the best for exhaust flow, so replace them with a test pipe or a cherry bomb if you want. You can leave them in place (gutted) if you like; there is a tiny performance loss due to the turbulent flow thru them when they are gutted, and they make a tinny sound. But no harm is done. Therefore, your power and mileage will be better with no smog pump. Your power and mileage will be essentially the same with a stock cat or with a gutted cat. HOWEVER, if your engines will no longer be able to run in closed loop mode, then for sure you must gut or remove the cat because running for prolonged periods richer than stoichiometric will eventually clog the cat, or even lead to a fire in the worst case imaginable (like what used to happen to certain 12 cylinder Jaguars). Power and mileage go down with a clogged cat.
I agree with PLYM49. Remove the cats if not needed for better flow. The air pump is needed IF you run the cats to provide additional air (oxygen) to complete the catalyst process. No cats, no air pump. PCV is good, so is EVAP, so keep those if you can. Neither will cost performance. An EGR on a computer-controlled car will prevent knock, but many remove them. Good to see you back at it, Joel!
Good to see you back. Be sure to put a splash pan over those compressors in the fender. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Yes i thought about that i have a ruff sketch of how the cover will look for easy removal without having to remove fender thats why i have the air intake facing backwards i also figured the air would cool them faster being outside the trunk But these are only back up compressors in case my engine driven compressor fails Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Hey man! My name is Joel as well!! Lol I too, own a 47 Plymouth. Mines is the Business Coupe. I just wanted to give props with your build. I've been watching and reading it...even before I was officially a member on here. Keep doing what you're doing! You have a new subscriber here. Peace!
Man that is an awesome build and I sure commend your ambition and dedication! Your boys will have great memories of this car I'm sure!
great to see you back. I was wondering how you were after Sandy hit up your way. Take care, keep posting.
I lost power for couple hours thats it. But what i went thru in this past year is a whole different story, im happy to still be here. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Just to close the loop on smog pumps: There are several different approaches that have been taken with smog pumps over the years based on year, make and model. Broadly speaking, there are two main types. The first was where the smog pump pumped air into the cat. This setup is less frequently seen. You will know you have it because there is an additional port on the catalytic converter where the air pipe connects. This system is downstream of the O2 sensor, so it can be removed with no effect on performance or economy. The second type seen pumps air into the exhaust passages, sometimes behind the exhaust valve and sometimes right into the manifold. These function before the O2 sensor, so they potentiailly could affect power or economy. In practice that is usually not the case, as they tend to be set up with a timer or thermostatic control so that the air only gets pumped in on cold start-up (open loop operation). The reason is that the motor is running rich in open loop. Injecting extra air into the exhaust manifold leans things out for the cat, so the cats last longer and to slightly reduce cold-start emissions. Now, all emissions tests are with the motor warm and in closed loop, so there is no way for anyone to know if this system ever does anything. When these systems are in bypass, they are just pumping air into the air cleaner. Total waste of power. To show you how bad these systems were, consider the one Jaguar used, the poster child for badly designed smog pump systems. The Jag system pumps air into the head behind the exhaust valve for something like 45 seconds (on a timer) from start-up. So, for 45 seconds of operation each time the motor is started, you have a parasitic drain for as long as the motor is running. Madness. Furthermore, since 99.999999% of the time there is no air blowing thru the pipes into the head, the tips get coked up. Which means that even for those 45 seconds, no air is getting in. No one ever removed the air manifold from the head to decoke those ports, but plenty of people replaced the belt when it broke or the air pump when it got noisy. Double and triple madness. So, you see that there really is never a reason to keep the smog pump extant, except in the situation where you face a visual inspection, and in that case you can remove the air vanes from inside the pump to reduce the windage losses.
Ok spent 2 min and installed my custom made battery tray. Recycled Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Just got a new toy at work. I can finish fabricating some stuff fir the 47 for free. Wooohooo Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...3-B6E7-B8F4A060DEA4-1724-00000064935565A6.mp4 Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
Keep that smile going Joel. One step at a time. There will come a day when it is completed, WHORAH!!!!!!!!!
Ataboy ! Joel Did you not wake up this morning thinking this was another opportunity to mess up some bad guy's day? I did. eputy United States Marshal Raylan Givens
The Jalopy Journal
