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solid lifter chevy 235

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Giddyup, Mar 10, 2013.

  1. Giddyup
    Joined: Aug 28, 2012
    Posts: 34

    Giddyup
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I have a '49 Chevy 1/2ton w/'59 235. I overheated bad three weeks ago. Ran fine for few days, then started missing/popping back into intake. Had melted the pickup in HEI. Replace all parts of distributor except plug wires. (Will do today) Still wouldn't run well. Compression was 115 on all but one at 95. Pulled head, checked valves, put back together. Checked timing gears, good. Got it running, idled good. Looks like everything is moving good. Adjusted valves & took it for spin. Fine for couple blocks, then started losing power & popping like before.
    I figured it's gotta be a lifter sticking. They all came out smooth, but #3 & 4 intake lifters were a different kind. They are solid, but look like hyd. Overall height is different, but it looks like where the pushrod sits is the same as other lifters. Would it do any good to replace them all w/ hyd ? I'll replace plug wires, put it all back together, then do comp check again. Any suggestions?
     

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  2. 52HardTop
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,078

    52HardTop
    Member

    I would think they should all be hydraulics. Unless things were done to the motor that required solids? Pretty sure a 59 motor would have hydraulics originally.
    Dom
     
  3. badsix
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 131

    badsix
    Member
    from oregon

    did you pull all of the lifters? you should check all your valves to make sure that they are opening all the way, you could have a cam lobe going away. if its a solid lifter block its probably not drilled for hyd lifters and they are almost impossible to find. I use the ones with the cut out in my gmc but there are all kinds of lifters for these engines
     
  4. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,631

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca


  5. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    All '59 235 blocks were drilled for hydraulics but only the car engines had them. The '59 trucks had solid lifters. With a mixture of solid and hydraulics, no matter which procedure you used to adjust the valves, some of them are going to be wrong.

    First thing I would do is ID the engine (car or truck?) Post the numbers/letters that are stamped on the flat pad just behind the distributor and we should be able to tell for sure. You can run solid lifters with a hydraulic cam but hydraulic lifters do not play well at all with a solid lifter cam.
     
  6. Giddyup
    Joined: Aug 28, 2012
    Posts: 34

    Giddyup
    Member
    from Denver, CO

    I didn't know the truck engines had solids. Mine is a truck engine. I pulled all the lifters & they were loose. I pulled all the valves when I had the head off & they move free & seem to seat good. I put everything back together & still runs bad. Compression is low on #2 still at 95psi. Doesn't seem like that should cause much of a problem though. Only have a little blowby, so rings aren't too bad. I'll start in on it again tomorrow.
    Maybe the harmonic balancer? How can tell other than replacing?
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2013
  7. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 863

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    If your engine idles good, but looses power and starts missing after you drive it a ways, I'd be looking for a fuel delivery problem. Disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the carb, get yourself a catch can, and have someone crank the engine over, you should see spurts of gas coming out of the line. If not, could be a weak fuel pump or a kinked or clogged fuel line.
     

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