What sandable primer for use under rustoleum/tremclad?

What did you guys use for a sandable primer under rustoleum/tremclad (oil based alkyd) ? To seal filler and block?

Do the rustoleum/tremclad primers sand well?

 

Under Rustoleum, you should be able to use almost anything.

 

The only reason to use Tremclad is poverty. Therefore, if you must use primer, it would have to be the cheapest lacquer primer surfacer.

Tremclad does not need primer to stick. In other words, you don't need to use primer. Unless you need to smooth out the surface.

PS the other reason to use Tremclad is, it stands up well on chassis and under fenders. In that case, no primer needed either. I have used it on trailers, chassis, etc for years with no primer and had no problems.

 

I'm currently experimenting with alkyd enamels from Rustoleum, Valspar, and high end Kirby Yacht paint. I've applied them via spray, brush, and dip over properly prepped lacquer and epoxy primer with no ill effects, so you shouldn't have a problem.

Despite the negativity toward oil based enamels, I believe they do have a place - particularly in mimicking DIY 1930's & 40's finishes. Although not required, I would highly suggest a good epoxy over bare metal, then filler primer, then your alkyd enamel. The downfall of alkyd enamels is a lack of UV protection - wax early and often or deal with fading & chalking.

 

Rustoleum sells a clean metal and rusty metal primer. Both the same except the color.

 

Not sure on how much UV protection it has, but rustoleum has a boat line of paints with UV protection.

 

I've used valspar high build primers under valspar and rustoleum. It sands well once it cures. Temp and humidity have a lot to do with that, but you can play with your reducers to get faster flash and cure in cool weather, etc.

If it isn't cured, ....walk away....for a long time...like a week...or two....

 

Where do you get the Valspar high build primer? What is the product number?

 

I get it at Tractor Supply, but I've seen it in the big box stores, too.

 

I used this. Wet sands and blocks pretty damn good. Picked it up at a local parts house.



Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Just painted this 39 for a buddy. Used all rustoluem products.



Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

I think that looks pretty damn good. I assume you sprayed it? HVLP? If so, what tip size and did you use a hardner with it?


Rustoleum type products may not be THE optimum products - but on the other hand for a home built car that will (in my case) likely spend its life either in a garage or under a cover when not driven and be waxed often, why NOT use it if you're happy with the results? Talk about traditional? These kind of paint jobs strike me as VERY in keeping with the old hotrodders traditions!

 

It was sprayed with hvlp with a 1.3 tip with no hardener. Thanks for the complements. I agree . Not everyone can afford material prices these days for high end stuff. Not even me and I work in a body shop. Traditional.. I think so!

 

Like everything in life, it has it's place.

I used one coat on the cab of a '57 Chevy truck I never waxed, spent its entire life outdoors and was more than happy with the results. No fading, peeling, anything. I plan on using it again on similar "just a driver" vehicles.

Its not right for your high end car and no one would suggest it.

 

hmmm.. those sort of results really make ya wonder... I'm assuming that lighter colored paints would other wise fare well such as "white" or something lighter that wouldnt' absorb a lot of heat through the suns direct rays.. My '65 Chevy truck may be a possiby candidate if I don't spend the money on the pricey paints... Your guys stories of using the Rust-Oleum really make me consider this as an option. I seem to use Rust-Oleum on all my other parts (small parts) and it always works fine. I used it on the entire underbody and chassis on my '62 VW and haven't had ANY problems with it over 15,000 miles..