I was sanding on some bondo earlier and when I wiped the dust/powder off, there was still a lot of very fine powder that I couldn't just wipe off with a rag. What's the best way to get all of it out. Could you use like a lacquer thinner?
I'm not saying it's wrong but I never use wax and grease remover over filler. I blow it up close with an air blower to get the dust out of the sand scratches, wipe it with a paper bodyshop towel and air and prime. Just scares me to have wax and grease remover soak in the filler. Even when you wipe it off right away with a clean towel like is recommended. JMO. Lippy
^^^X2. Sometimes I'll first rid the area of bondo dust with compressed air, then my grandpa's 3" x 5" horse hair paint brush, then the Prep Sol, and then, the tach cloth. Was doing it today as a matter of fact. Then following up with primer. Got up to 73 degrees today, and couldn't resist do some body work. Cough, cough.
Body filler is like a wick. Putting ANY type of solvent on bare filler could bite you in the butt. I'm sure there are some who say they have no problems putting solvent on bare filler, but be cautious of the internet Einsteins. Stu
Blow clean with air, while wiping with a clean dry rag, then primer. Primer will catch and seal any remaining dust. When you are done priming and sanding the whole car must be wiped and blown real clean, the masking removed and redone, and the car wiped down with tack rags before painting.
You use Prep Sol or wax and grease remover before you do anything, before you even start sanding. Otherwise sanding grinds the wax and grease into the paint. Get the car clean, clean. Then mask, sand, do bodywork, primer, and paint. Once the car is clean you should not need prep sol again, what are you doing, pouring oil over your fresh bodywork?
Don't allow silicone spray in your shop. Silicone is the worst thing for causing fish eyes. Also it poisons your catalytic converter if you get it in your engine. Go easy on the oil in your air tools too. It will spray on your car.
blow with air !i dont use any solvent bondo is pourous!i dont allow wd-40 or any silicone interi.or products in my garage.
Blow with air,clean with silicone remover,wipe down with tackrags just before you start the paint job.
Don't you sweep it all up, throw it in an empty paint tin with some thinners and use it again on the next dint?? Doc.
Use air & a clean rag, i also use a pre-clean, never had a problem with solvent trapping in the filler,been doing this for years,try to wear gloves when possible the oils from your skin can cause problems also...if worried about pre-clean solvent you can use a waterbased cleaner that should be available at any good paint jobber ,hope this helps.............
Thanks guy! I will jump on it either tonight or tomorrow. Gonna go get another '55 F100 cab. Anybody need a cab and 2 doors?
Its always a good idea to have an oil trap in your compressed air line whenever you are working with bodywork, otherwise if you go blowing it off you could spray oily residue onto your bondo
It is best to take it outside if you can and thoroughly blow it off - inspect for pinholes. The bodywork should be finished in nothing less than 180 grit , preferably something between 220 and 320 grit . Finishing in less than 180 and you are asking for trouble. Don’t wipe the body filler with anything but a tack cloth if you want to - but don’t sweat a small amount of bondo dust being caught in the primer. It won’t hurt anything. Make sure anything you are primering over is feathered out and prepped thoroughly or you can have poor adhesion.
I finish up the filler cleaning with a vacuum cleaner. And yes it fills the paper vacuum filter so clean it frequently. Exposing a talc based filler to liquid cleaning solvents scares me.
I use a clean cotton cloth wetted with prep-sol to wipe it down after blowing with air. Just damp enough to pull off the dust. Seems to work fine. Don't saturate the filler.....
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