I will try to sum the situation. Just installed a new 12 circuit harness from Speedway in a 1927 roadster kit with sbc305. I put new wiring due to rats nest from previous owner, and starter was sticking after key turned off. Still happened, so changed solenoid. Then nothing on starter. Had power to everything else. Put on new starter & solenoid. Turned over & hung up twice so I shimmed up, but on 3rd try it engaged & then everything went dead. No lights- no nothing. Tested voltage at battery, starter & ignition (battery post) - all good, but nothing on other posts on universal ignition. Changed the universal ignition, but still nothing power-wise. All breakers good. Power to ignition from starter, so fusible link on starter wire is still good. I don't see a main breaker fuse. What am I missing?
I'd retrace the wiring, looking for shorts. Recheck your grounds. Make sure you have a good grounding system setup. IE, dedicated battery ground to starter, engine to chassis ground. Recheck the ignition switch wiring. In frustration, you may have crossed something. Oh.... electricity is the devil work.
Is this the one? http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-64017.pdf and which diagram did you work to? (pages 10 - 14)
Chopped51- Sorry. Dan- that is the correct one. GM, 1-wire alternator, no tach, no HEI (no ballast resistor but have it). fnla39- glass body, motor to frame grd strap, starter grd to engine block. tfeverfred- grds are all bare metal. All power working prior to starter swap. Before, I would turn key to engage starter but when release key to run the starter would stick. Changed solenoid (old had only S lug now has R & S so ran wire from coil to R). Then nothing on the starter when turning the key. Changed both starter & another solenoid. This time starter engaged twice & hung up (shimmed starter). 3rd bump & all power gone now to everything. Tested battery & ignition with only red battery wire from starter. 12.7-12.8 volts at all areas. All post read same voltages when turn key to run (ST center lug only 12.7 when turn to start them back to 0.0 when key released to run). Harness has a fusible link, but doesn't call out or show & I can't find a main fuse on line or fuse block.
Current wiring- battery to main lug on starter, fusible link to red wire to ignition BAT post. Purple wire from ignition ST post to neutral safety then to S post on starter solenoid. Pink wire from IGN pos on ignition switch to coil & Brown wire to headlight switch. Wire from coil to starter solenoid R. Orange wire from ACC post ignition. Ground strap from engine to frame. Wire to fan relay from main starter lug (as diagram on for relay) & ground from relay to frame. Wire from fan relay back to fuse block. Alternator is 1-wire so direct wire from fuse block to alternator (as diagram shows).
When you are saying no power are you talking right at the switch where the pink and orange are connected with the switch on ?
clean your battery posts. It probably arked then wouldnt pass current. Ive got one that does it all the time.
I have power out if ignition to fuse block but no lights, & starter not engaging. Voltage at starter from battery & at BAT on ignition. This also brand new universal ignition I put in after everything stopped working.
When you turn you ignition switch to the start position are you getting power at the S terminal of the starter solenoid using a volt meter ?
First & foremost, thank you for the input & ideas. Ended up going back over the ignition switch & starter wiring with a volt meter & double checked the connections. Tested again, but nothing. Then I started back to the battery & work forward. I moved the ground wire at one point & it arced where the wire goes into the crimp, AND then I heard a click. I had apparently left the key on, which in this case allowed me to find the problem. The wires were frayed & broken. I changed the battery ground, and NOW everything works again, including the starter. The starter is hanging up after the motor starts, so going to check to see if the power is staying on after the key released from START to RUN, or if I need more shims.
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